Hey Jason- <!-- icon and title --> Re: April Fools '08 Banger Meeting <hr style="color: rgb(153, 153, 153);" size="1"> <!-- / icon and title --><!-- message --> Finally got the engine! WHOOHOO! Looks great. Looking to port and polish the intakes and exhaust at some point. Bored .60 over Going to get a little wet in the cylinders- sure you don't mean .060 over? Herb
Jonny69 My experience with babbitt cracking as in you pictures is most times due to either lousy lead-antimony babbitt, or too much spark advance. Or both! Herb
HA!! uh,..yep,...that pesky missing zero! Gets me everytime!! How's that chevy you were building coming along??!! I'm picking up two 4 banger chevy engines next week. I "think" one or both are actually the large sized early blocks!!! So, he says they are,...we'll see!
Here are a few pics of my "make believe" roadster pickup. I have a '30-31 extended cab roadster pickup body on order from Brookville, gonna run a stock gas tank and will probably build a bed out of wood. The A engine of unknown origin is coming out to be replaced with a freshly rebuilt B engine - B cam, Snyder's head, Scalded Dog single downdraft manifold with 94, stock exhaust manifold with high performance Aries exhaust, FS ignitions distributor. Cling's is now making a V8 transmission adapter, that is their adapter and master cylinder assembly. I modified a '37-41 rear bearing retainer that had a broken ear. Got the steering arms dropped this weekend, still planning to grind the SuperBell emblem off and drill the axle. Gotta get hydraulic brakes on the rear and make new brake lines. Anybody know if the wheel cylinders will clear if you fit the backing plates straight up and down after you grind the rear shock mounts off? Will Kimble
BE SURE TO CHECK OUT OUR CLUB'S NEW WEBSITE! www.hotironclub.com We welcome new faces and new interest in the world of early era hot rodding of the silver and golden age!
I imagine that somebody has used the torque tubes but the driveshaft is preferred as it is lighter. Lakes pipes are run outside of the car. A lot of original lakes pipes ran outside along the frame with a plug screwed in the end, usually a large pipe plug, that was removed for racing. On the backside would be a pipe connected to a muffler under the car for the street. The track type ran up on the outside and had no provision for "quiet running". In some old photos you may see a small hole drilled cross wise at the end of the pipe, this was to put a pin or wire through to hold steel wool in the pipe to muffle the noise in some cases Here is some trivia for you. Urb Stair wrote in his book that originally the exhaust pipes on sprint cars were cut at an angle on the end but they found that a 90 degree cut gave better extraction at high RPM's.
I also read that he stumbled onto more power from longer pipes becase his secretary was complaining about the noise and fumes she was exposed to while they were test running engines in the shop. They extended the pipe from the test stand out a window and found it gave them more power and RPM.
Hi everyone, Im new to the banger world having just purchased my first real steel A, its a 29 sedan and Im having trouble with a weak spark .... not a good fat blue one from the coil lead but a weak yella effort which ends up even worse at the plugs, so I've ordered up new coil, condenser, rotor etc to give it a freshen up for the summer. Still usin the search facility and reading through all the banger info... I may be some time Vince
New Project, I am going to run stock model "A" shocks on my RPU. The shock arms are not level due to reversed eye front spring and some spring sag also a couple of leaves I left out. So my fix is to cut 1 1/2" out of the center of the tube shock links and weld them. The spacer in the shock link is 1 1/2" long so I will leave that out. I bought a set of the new links and discovered that they are not the same as original. The new ones have a 15/16' OD where as the originals are 1" giving a thicker wall (.125 ) So I cut and welded one of my originals. I wasn't going to use the originals because they are dented but when I cut them I cut out the dented part. I might take a photo after I cover up my blind man weld with paint.
Ahh Haa! thanks, That explains why my '36 has been starting and driving reliably lately.... it' afraid I'll convert to an open driveshaft and use the driveshaft for the 'A' steel wool... fire that stuff out like a faming brillo pad
new to the banger world only a few months in and im young only 20 so I want to soak up all the knowledge i can thanks for all the information you guys share. my question of the day is what can I do to get a 12 volt starter for my A banger?
F.AS.T Ford A Speed Technology, SPRING SPEED WEEKEND HILMAR CA. AP. 26'08 this is a 3 day event. I attended on Sat only.. Event was held at Morrison's auto collection. Speakers were Steve Serr current manufacturer of Miller head assy, and other bits. Steve talked about his quest to produce this head. From obtaining previous mfg'rs patterns to updating the head and casting in aluminum Quite the adventure. Also talked about his supercharged / Hilborn injected engine for Bonneville..not your average project. Neal Jern made a presentation on his conversion kit to adapt the '28 Chevy 2 port or Olds 3port OHV head to the A/T block. Very clean product. Photos.. you are on your own... Art Moores Hillclimb car 4 prt Riley Weiand head Steve Serr
You can get a 12 v starter for the Model A at Mac's , or Sacramento vintage ford, or any reputable Model A parts dealer. I'm using a 6 v stater on 12 v myself.
Here is a set of original mid-40's banger pipes from my dry lakes roadster that follow your description, with the exception that these run under the car and not on the outside. The roadster was also a daily driver so the car couldn't be as noisy on the street as when it ran out on the lakes. Plus the fenders, splash aprons and running boards needed to fit back on the roadster after the race. I no longer have the extension that went to the back of the roadster but you can see where the tail pipe was corked and the exhaust was sent to the back of the car. A close up of the cork and the fork in the tube that would lead to a tail pipe. I like the steel wool tidbit. We did it a bit different, with more organic material. When we first started the banger back a few years ago it was a bit more muffled than expected. We stomped on the gas to power out the ol rust but unknowingly to us a rat had climbed into the tail pipe and created a nest. Rat turds and old dried out grass blades came a shootin out. (no rat rod comments please). Let er rip!! Gaters
More FAST photos... forgot about the 20 photo limit dang it redo... should have put entire album up Neal Jern's ride Ron Mosers roadster Dave Wilton ( MT Car Products) RPU
last of the FAST Morrisons collection ..varied Steve Serr's Bonneville engine Steve Serr and the driver Stehling Neal Jern and his handiwork '28 Chevy 2 port engine The infamous 1/10 th mile The competition First time out Thats it
Awesome pictures. Many thanks. Was anyone giving any power figures out for the Chevy-head conversion? I don't think I've ever seen this one with the roof down before...
There is a local legend about a guy that stuffed steel wool into his exhaust when he went to get it signed off after getting a ticket. He went to the local highway patrolman's house and everything went well until the officer said "rap it up" and he blew the steel wool out. Needless to say the car didn't pass.
He should've backed it up with the old Harley trick - get a big OD washer & weld it to a bolt through the tailpipe - nut on one side, wing-nut on the other - stuff steel wool in, turn washer so it holds steel wool in & decreases diameter of pipe - pass test. Once passed, turn washer so it allows steel wool to blow out.
My "51" Triumph 650 has bars with wingnuts to hold the baffles in. There is a ring in the end of the funnel that the bar rests against and the baffle is held on by a wingnut. I don't use the baffles as the engine doesn't idle as well with them in and i don't want to change the jets after 30 years.
What a great bunch of machinery at that F.AS.T meet. I'd like more info on all of those cars and motors.
I looked at the F.A.S.T website and noticed their hill climb rules. There are some pretty awesome hills here in Northwest Arkansas. Would anyone be interested in participating in a Midwest USA hill climb event? I've been thinking of organizing something like that.
Info by memory, so... Question was asked, how many stock components were used ? A. only what is painted yellow ie block only. The engine had not been run as of this last weekend. ready to go but needs electronic ECU . They are estimating/ hoping HP in 250+ range B ford block, custom billet alum girdle, Moldex crank, Hilborn inj. -careful here- I think he commented that a different injector layout ,plumbing maybe used if they were to run fuel of some type, Barns (?) oil pump- wet sump, fuel pump driven off of rear of oil pump, Magnuson supercharger . I believe he said the supercharger runs 'dry'- fuel is injected on pressurized side, modified Chevy 283 crank dampner, custom alum flywheel ...oh and Miller head.
Re Chevy head conversion- no HP figures quoted. There are a few posts here about this unit pros/cons etc. but kit is nicely presented.. ummm top down well it's April in California's central valley 88 F slight breeze from NW blah blaH blah
Hi, possibly contact Jim Brierley FAST manager Email [email protected] in the current 2008 coming events there was ( big help ) an event in Unicoi Tenn. and upcoming June 11-15 speedster rally in 'Southwest' Virginia. or perhaps he can connect you with people closer to you . Also FAST is recognized by MAFCA as a specialty group. perhaps there's a local Model A club in your area you can create trouble with..
The Jalopy Journal
