Never got to start one of these Banger threads, so here goes... First, i have no financial interest in this car/speedster. i just thought it was really good looking. It is at Bert's Model A Fords in Denver. I tried to take some pics of the rear suspension and frame construction, but the pics just didn't come out clear. But it is like the front, using quarter eleptics, just mounted transverse.
Found a couple more usable pics of the speedster... One thing i noticed was that there were no shocks. And it looked like it would be a challenge to make a set for the rear. Don't know how you would go about mounting them. Again, i have no $$$ interest in this car. I'm just showing it to generate ideas and suggestions for someone building a similar speedster project. Mike
Does anyone know anything or even own this motor? I took these pics at the big 3 swapmeet in SanDiego. I posted these pics a couple weeks ago and I got one response. "Mac The Yankee" said it was a 28 Chev head. It did have "GM" cast in it. I wonder what pistons it would have in it with such a thick adapter? I think it looks cool, but I'd like to know if it works good too! Enjoy the pics anyway.
I almost started the thread before work at 0430 this morning with the thread title of "How to turn your banger into a SBC. The April Banger Meet." Then I woke up and realized that would be a real bad joke. Just wanted to check in for the month and let ya'll know I may be building a banger powered modified soon. I will also be dragracing my Coupe out at Dragfest here in Bakersfield. If ya see me out there feel free to spout some banger talk in my ear. I am gonna go for slowest ET and Lowest speed in the 1/4 lol. Glad to see the threads and topics continue to teach myself and others of the bangers we power our cars with.-Weeks
Hey you found my swapmeet that is a neal jern setup on a 31 motor running driving motor out of a hambers ar that I did some trading for. No mystery here pm me for the info
I am thinking of using 4 wheel 1/4 elliptics on my project. On thing I do not like is how the axle is so far in front of the grille shell area. I do like the setup in the rear, I wonder how it would affect ride and handling.
Here is the banger link list . For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info: Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498 Banger basics. another info link list: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480 Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator: http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculatorfin.jsp Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173 Chevy Banger Stuff http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=463465 Maybe these links should be posted early in each months meeting. If anyone knows of more, please post them. .
Adam M, that is a Jern Thunderbolt conversion the head is from a 1928 Chev. The pistons would be stock dimensions the reason for such a thick adapter is the Chev head doesn't have the combustion chamber in the head like a Ford but is in the top of the cylinders. PM Sawracer he seems to be the best person to ask about performance of the conversion.
Got a front inner wheel bearing question. 1932 ford spindles. Inner wheel bearings. Both sides. Here's the deal. The inner bearing race turns somewhat on the spindle. I'm pretty sure that's not right. I haven't got a good accurate measurement on the spindle OD or the Inner Race ID but I would guess .005 clearance or more. Here's the question. What is the ford diameter spec on the OD of the spindle race and the ID of the inner bearing race? And more the the point, What is the clearance fit between the two? Thanks for the help as always.
"Here's the question. What is the ford diameter spec on the OD of the spindle race and the ID of the inner bearing race? And more the the point, What is the clearance fit between the two?" I have my 32 spindles glass beaded so they are clean and I measure 1.188 with a dial calipier. The new bearing measures the same and I can not push it on the spindle by hand. It will need a little help. Ken
Mike, Thanks for sharing these pictures. I'm finally getting a chance to look them over. Very nice build !!!!! I hope you can answer a couple of questions. What steering box and column is being used? Is the rear spring two individual springs? like 1/4 ellipticals turned 90 deg? Rear shocks. If he is trying to keep it period, he could mount friction shocks parallel to the axle and attach a bracket to a supported mount on the side of the rear section of the body. .
Here's my build. I should be able to fire it up in the next few weeks and I hope to be on the road by June! TK
So I was divin around working the bugs out on my speedster and I ran into a new probelm. The outer wheel bearing completely decintrgrated and locked the wheel That was exciting even at 25 mph! So now I cant get the front hub off. any suggestions- I did pull the bolt and retainer off, but it weems like the bearing is just holding the hub on. I'd like to have it ready for its first car show next weekend and I have to have this fixed. and I still can't get the 1 wire alternator to charge the battery- blah!
but not cheaper. I am bout broke and have a bew baby- this project was supposed to be long done- but ol like got in the way. Need to do it right, but for as little as possible. I have another spindle, but not another hub.
TK, Good looking build. It will be nice to see another banger powered RPU running around So Cal. Tell us more about what is inside the engine. Any hop up parts? What trans are you using? .
Here is the tread in the classifieds: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=343078&highlight=friction+shocks. I've seen them in person, they are works of art !!!!! .
Like the old saying goes: You can have it cheap You can have it fast You can have done right. But you can't have all three. Have you backed off the brake adjuster? .
We made our own. The first ones used a coil spring but I found it hard to keep the tension at just the desired rate so I replaced the springs with Belleville (cupped) washers. The friction material is from a power brake clutch. That was what was handy.