hey guys, just wondering sound wise, would you go with a split 4-2 header or a 4-1 header? when does the stock carb start to become inadequate when modding an A banger? thanks
I think the stock carb was inadequate on a stock model A...the header makes no difference, it is all an improvement.
What kind of cfm should I look for then? I'll probly mod it as far as a 6:1+ head, header, intake some sort of distributor with advance and maybe a cam. I'm picking up my motor and chassis next week and I wanna make this thing sound good because everyone is pretty much against me using it and think I'm crazy. It's not like they have ever even heard a hopped up banger before so I'm going to show em what it's like.
Rebuilding the seat right now, not used to actually disassembling something carefully so I can put it all back together...once I have the seat in place, I will get the steering column lengthened 8" then I can start building a body (my psuedo-speedster body). Oh, and I lowered it, big improvement. pictures eventually. Not really a banger friendly thing... pics: before lowering, seat back where I need it to be: after lowering, about 8" at the rear spring shackles and 4" at the rear axle: I really like buffalo wires. Quick cardboard cut out for body line. Steering wheel mock up location...maybe a bit higher. My ass parked inside for reference, I am sitting on about 3" of folded up blankets and I am already sticking over the top of the windshield. The WB is only 120" so it really is not very big.
CFM...dont strain your self. Just get something bigger. Dare I say it...a 97, bleh, I think I threw up in my mouth. But anything is an improvement. Just do yourself a favor. Set up the distributor correctly and get the cam dialed in, more power is lost between those two items than you want to know. And tell all the silly sods to stuff it
The cam is the key part here. Get a decent grind - such as a SU1R - and set it up correctly. Use metal timing gear but don't trust the dots when installing it, use a dti and a degree wheel. (The dots on my old timing gear were almost one complete tooth out, which is about 7 degrees.) With a decent head such as a Winfield plus a header, a 97 (or 94) and a distributer, you'll have shit-loads of fun, believe me.
Not really a banger friendly thing... i think it works ok here ! What are you useing to "dial in" the cam. maybe you should read a book or get help on the cam . to do it right , you have to do it correctly in steps . ......................... steve
How to dial in a Banger cam would be a great tech. Since there are only about 50 -60 hp on tap with most of them, a 10% reduction or increase can be very noticable.
start here ... more to come ........... steve http://idisk.mac.com/forever4/Public/pages/camcrankposition.htm
my mommy told me that my drooling was ok, cause when I think really hard my brain sweats and comes out my ears. And it just showed how hard I was thinking, but that I should be careful to put down some paper or something, so that people would slip and fall from all my thoughts.
You really should take a look at "Degreeing the Camshaft" by Dennis Piranio in Vintage Speed & Sport Secrets Magazine, V18 No 4, April 2009, pp. 22-23. And if you think you're only working with 50-60 hp you really need to have a long talk with Dennis. He's gotten twice that out of a flathead on dyno tests. Fifty to 60 is stock Model B country. His website is www.modelaparts.net Fearless (who's not on his payroll)
more on 4 banger cam timing ................ steve try here ............... http:www.rpmrons.com/degreecam.html
I bought a set of off-set dowl pins from Taylor Engine but ended up not using them. I set my cam up with brand-new straight cut gears from Dan McEachern, and using a degree wheel and dti. Once I got the cam where I wanted it with the crank at TDC, I tried my cam gear and it was near-enough on the money for me not to bother with the pins, as I didn't think it warranted the machine work for a fraction of a degree. Just lucky, I guess. It now runs very strong. 17.3 @ 77mph with a 6:1 head and single 97 being my best.
Updated the Banger Builders Avitar in the HAMB social groups area. Click on the image to visit and join if you aren't already a member! Also getting excited about the Round Up in Austin. Just hooked up an old late 40s Sun Tach using a very cool new product that hopefully will be hitting the market in the near future, making all those Sun Tach sending units work on any number of cyls car in either 6 or 12 V. and all fits inside the Tach sending unit box. Can't say much more about it yet, but it's WAY COOL!
The new SOSS mag has a nice read on how to degree a cam on a banger volume eighteen, number 4, april 2009 pages 22-23
Pictures of my older friends helping me take the old engine out and the new in. They are all hotrodders from a long time ago. I owe these guys a huge thanks. The other night I was pretty down about the coolant issue I was having. Yesterday while I was at work they got together and removed my bad head and took a stock A head and put it on the engine so I can drive the car while I am searching for another old head. They called me at work after the fact to tell me the car was running again and to tell me what they had done. I have one big question..... They said the engine is running great but They reused the B headgasket I had for the A6050B head. . I don't want to look a gift horse in the mouth but will the B gasket work with the A head??
Mine seems to work ok. The purveyors claim you should use B gaskets if you run a hi-comp head on your A, mines stock comp but it's what I had. Been using it for a year no probs. Luke
I have not posted anything banger related for a while, so I thought I would show off my first home made main cap. It's a non-Ford, Dodge type banger, but I like it. Besides nobody around here seems to think all that much about my effort. First picture is all 5 stock main caps and the roughed out blocks that will become the new caps. Second picture is the new rear main. I will bore the other four Friday or Saturday. They are eiser as they only get a bore through and can be done in pairs. So I get two for one bore. Number 3 is the thrust bearing and required extra care getting the width right. When ever ARP sends me the rest of the new studs I'll dowel pin the caps and send the block for line boring.
I get mine from a friend. this last one is real good like all mags some good some not so good some day I will join. Some neat shit you dont see just any where. One nice thing if you sell them on Ebay you get all your cash back. later Bill
Rich, there's a few of us non-Ford, DB types around here and we definately ARE interested in what you do. If you weren't on the wrong coast I'd stop by and help you! Did you find me a Morten and Brett head yet?
speaking of finding heads has anyone got advice for heads and pushrods for my rutherford thanks rusty
had a good nite out with hersham bob visting from britain went to the garage a local group of misfit rodders and bikers hope it was not too much for him best i could do on the nite
The Jalopy Journal
