Yep, that is what I plan on doing with it. But once I am done having my fun with it, it's guts will be donated to something better.
Got a couple questains for you guys. The deal is I had my newly aquired banger on e-bay this week (trying to recoup some of the money I spent on the truck it's in) and it didn't sell, no dought due to the white elephant it was attached to. Time for plan B which is to pull the motor out and put it in my track T project instead of the flathead I was going to use. Did a search on here, tons of good info but didn't find what I was looking for. Where is the best place to find goodies for it, head, manifolds, cam, ect? Any good "how to" books on putting together and nice little street motor? Should I be worried, are bangers as addictive as the flatmotors have been for me?
Few sites for banger goodies http://reds-headers.net/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1&zenid=ea1283310b1dbb88d75c843e6db1dd50 taylorengine.com/ vintageford.com/ snydersantiqueauto.com/ and some information hotforhotfours.com/ secretsofspeed.com/
Here are a couple of more links: http://www.millerhi-speedheads.com/index.htm http://www.dan4banger.com/products.htm http://www.specialtymotorcams.com/ http://www.fsignitions.com/ http://www.modelaparts.net/ "Should I be worried, are bangers as addictive as the flatmotors have been for me? " Yes they are !!!!!!!!!! Be afraid......Be very afraid !!!!!!
OK, I am working on hooking up the oil pressure gauge for an Auburn dash. I have the original copper tube that ran from the motor to the gauge. It's been disconnected for some years now and I am not sure about a few things, so I'd like to ask a question or two of the group. #1 Does the copper line have a check valve that pushes pressure to the gauge or does the oil actually fill the line all the way to the gauge? #2 Can I or should I use a teflon tape of thread sealer to keep the brass fittings tight since the line is under pressure? I would appreciate any help. Thanks, Gaters
The best man for a cam is Jom Brierley, you'll find his contact details on the Hot For Hot Fours link above.
Older Volvo Amazon had 4 speed transmission and some models did have also overdrive. check more from: http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/prof_120.shtml
#1 yes #2 shouldn't be necessary Some times Teflon tape can cause problems especially on fuel line fittings
Oil travels thru that copper line to the gage. you will probably have to break the line loose at the back of the gage to bleed the air out of the line. I don't like to use teflon tape on oil lines. Unless you have modified your engine for preasure, a stock Banger doen't put out much preasure. So good pipe fitting won't need much to seal them up. My $0.02 .
Oil goes all the way to the gauge...and then leaks onto your nice clean pants, or white shoes. Usually not a check valve in the line to the gauge (I think that would leave the line to the gauge pressurized to what ever the last max pressure recorded was or block oil from getting to the gauge all together), the check valve is usually down at the pick up point, to keep oil in the pump. Only recomendation is that if you use copper, dont run it straight (give it a loop in the line at some point) to avoid stress cracking. Double flare the ends for over kill if you really want. Oil will degrade teflon...so just make it fit the first time.
loogy, really like your new Woody That thing has alot of character! I'd enjoy it as is for awhile. I wish I did
That looks like a keeper, you can't recreate that kind of character. Besides there are plenty of bare running chassis out there.
Just plain bill Crazydaddyo fur biscuit Thanks for the direction. I should have it set up correctly. Hopefully I don't find oil in my pant cuffs. My banger is drilled for pressure but I will heed your advice and work without it as the brass fitting are all tapered thread and or the copper line is flared anyway. I'll have to bleed the line of air next time I get her started. I appreciate the help. Gaters
OK guys, I hate to keep asking but I haven't been able to find any specific information in my books. I have a oil leak at the bottom of the side valve cover. I was wondering if there is a certain torque setting to these bolts? I put a ratchet to them and was able to tighten them up a bit more without much pressure. I am just fearful to over tighten them and strip out the thread. #1 How much pressure can I put down on the cover plate bolts? It's got a new gasket and such after it was freshened up. #2 As I said in my last thread, the bangers been drilled for pressure. How much oil pressure should I be seeing at the gauge? Would too much start to blow out these gaskets? Thanks, Gaters
The oil pressure will be at the bearings, not at the side plate. If you're leaking there, the mating surfaces probably aren't true. Short of machining them flat, you can get a thicker gasket from one of the suppliers, I've got one on my wall somewhere.
Air in the line will compress to the same pressure as the oil, (the gauge doesn't know if its an oil or air pressure gauge), it will push the oil back out when the engine stops and the oil pressure drops. Oil should only get to the gauge if it has an internal leak, a leak at the union or you bleed the air from the line.
redo your valve cover . use a "SMALL" amount of sealer on it to make up for poor mating surface . ............... steve
Is is an "A" or "B" engine? I missed that part of the story. If it is an "A" no pressure at side plate. I it is a "B" then you do have pressure at the side plate.
#1 Grade 2 dry 9 oiled 7 grade 5 dry 17 oiled 13 grade 8 dry 25 oiled 18 #2 start it up and see how much you have, normal is 10 lbs for max RPM'S So 40 lbs if you are going to turn 4 grand. Just throw your head back and start the sucker up and then worry. When I fired up my Winfield years ago it had the stock pressure relief spring and pegged the gauge at 80 lbs, this was a converted flathead V8 pump. It had a Burtz rear main seal and it held but I immediately shut it down. Just remember, a stock converted "A" pump can squirt oil clear across the garage maybe further if you are outdoors. I made a sleeve that covers the outlet hole in these pumps and it has a fitting in it so I can hook up a gauge and know what pressure I have before I install it.
He is correct. Something that ugly is really hard to recreate. It takes a lot of time, patience, and the weather has to be just right. Donate that shit to a termite farm, and build something to be proud of.
Well, still have some carburetor work to do and I'll probably be asking you guys some questions but I got the ol "Pyle Special" in running condition. After some 55+ years it's come back to life. I wanted to share this on the Banger thread first. I'll also do an update on the main board just to inform those who wished me well some 18 months ago. I want to thank you guys for all your help. This thing is a kick. I am going to get my dad back into the roadster tomorrow. I'll get a short video of that to show this to you guys too. I hope I posted the video correctly. "Happy" Gaters <embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i274.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/tuck_the_shopdog/Roadster%20Images_3/v_00040.flv">
It's an A but it's drilled for pressure. That's the bummer thing, if I gotta take it all back off to tighten it all back up to keep it from leaking, I have to pull the copper line to the valve cover too.
I gotta keep your notes for future reference. That's exactly what it did, it pegged the oil pressure gauge to 50 psi and runs about 35-40 when it's warm and at an idle. When I'm running down the road the gauge will fluctuate as I put more of a load on the engine. Thanks for the info. Gaters
Crazydaddyo, That'd be great. I don't know that I can venture that far out just yet unless I can get the carburetors and brakes worked out by then. I am getting a real bad hesitation getting into second gear. The carburetors are either to lean or choking out causing it to back fire a bit. I have to feather the throttle to push through the hesitation and back fire. Then it clears out and it's off. I haven't really been able to go fast enough to see what it'll do in 3rd. I am thinking the carbs are starving for fuel or my timing may be off. Any pointer out there? Thanks, Gaters
Chris, anyway to cut the top off and run it as a woody phaeton for the summer or will the windshield fall off?
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