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April banger meet

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by V4F, Apr 1, 2009.

  1. Could you please show a picture or 2 of how you made the rear main seal housing and the adapter for the bell housing? Do you adapt it to make use of the rear main bolts or did you pin it to the block? it would be great to see how you did it.

    thanks.
     
  2. Brendan1959
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 286

    Brendan1959
    Member

    Ford 8/10 hp distributor
    There is one of these forsale locally for about $30~ the add says they will fit an A banger. Has anyone done this? is it worthwhile?
    Brendan
     

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  3. Any Banger Folks out there got a 2x2 downdraft or Updraft intake for Banger? Been looking hard and cant find anything out there. Thanks!

    Also, any advice for hopped up cam shaft for running 2x2's? I currently have a slightly modified B cam...would like something heavier.
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2009
  4. I run a Winfield SU-1R and love it, runs out great
     
  5. Dirtynails
    Joined: Jan 31, 2009
    Posts: 844

    Dirtynails
    Member
    from garage

    The bare housing almost fits but the advance curve is for a smaller engine with a better combustion chamber design than a model A. You need to spend some time adjusting springs etc to stop pinging. You can also drop in other pommie dissy's such as most Lucas units. Plus,a pertronix can be bought to piss off the points . knowone will know unless they insist on popping the cap off.
    Considering that Pop and anglia parts are getting expensive in OZ these days,$30 is not too bad for a 55 year old part ...i suppose.
     
  6. wayneat
    Joined: Apr 20, 2009
    Posts: 32

    wayneat
    Member

    Fur Biscuit, I am not too swift on the computer and do not know how to download pictures. I do not have pictures showing much detail of the housing. But basically, it bolts to the back of the block and goes over the top of the main cap. It is in two pieces and comes apart at the pan rail. It uses the Burtz model A one piece rear main seal. I could send some pictures to someone if they would download them to the forum.
     
  7. Robbuild
    Joined: May 24, 2007
    Posts: 7

    Robbuild
    Member
    from Australia

    I have a chance in getting a model a left hand drive steering column and box Is there any way to convert the steering box to suit a right hand chassis Thanks Rob.
     
  8. Bobby Green
    Joined: Jun 9, 2001
    Posts: 1,319

    Bobby Green
    Member

    Hey Wayneat,...

    If you want to put that T motor in my Bellytank, we can see what she'll do. It's a pretty slippery car, and I got a led foot.
     
  9. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,204

    RussTee
    Member


    brendan i used these in the past they go quite well but now days use electronic distributors they need to be adjusted on a rolling road but give trouble free running i usually use early nissan pulsar disy
     
  10. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 9,912

    RichFox
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Send them to me and I will post them. RF
     
  11. Dirtynails
    Joined: Jan 31, 2009
    Posts: 844

    Dirtynails
    Member
    from garage

    That would have to be a very early Nissan Pulsar wouldn't it? ,they are lucas clones with jap quality. Most pulsars on the road here don't have dizzys anymore being electronic .Mind you any of the jap four cylinder dizzys are suitable and the toyo 4Y electronic would work great. Any thing will fit with a bit of kiwi application... :D
     
  12. 88daryl88
    Joined: Aug 7, 2006
    Posts: 184

    88daryl88
    Member

    I just tried that kiwi application thing. It wouldn't fit!
    Perhaps I should have used the 'dark tan'.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. I have a cam stamped Winfield SU that has pretty good lift, came out of a Riley 4 port, I don't think it is specifically ground for the F head. If I remember correctly it has around .370 on the intakes and .360 on the exhaust not sure but I think it is a "Super" or full race. I also have 2 SUIR's but the bearing journals have been ground undersize and would have to be hard chromed back to size. One is a Mike Hart Grind and the other is a Brierley. I have 2 or 3 Dual downdraft manifolds, various names.
     
  14. wayneat
    Joined: Apr 20, 2009
    Posts: 32

    wayneat
    Member

    Bobby, I know about your car and your lead foot. I spent some time in your pits at the salt last year, but you always had so many of your fans around that we didn't get a chance to visit. I also watched you leave the line a few times. We were busy with the G/GMR that I was crewing on. Thanks for the offer, and it is something to consider. I don't think we could do it this year, but maybe next. My partner has been working 75-80 hour weeks for the last 6 months, hopefully that will change and we can get back to work on our car. Thanks for the offer though. We will see if it survives the dyno runs.
     
  15. 1930 vicky
    Joined: Nov 12, 2006
    Posts: 76

    1930 vicky
    Member
    from England,UK


    Yep I run one on my B engine it seems to work ok
     
  16. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,204

    RussTee
    Member

    yep most japs will do just size them up to fit the head make up an intermediate shaft to suit and get them dialed in on a dyno cheap and boy what a difference. This one thing has probably efected the reliablity and performance of my motors more than anything else i have one in the b motor in the 26 RP and one fitted in a bosh front plate on the tee motor in the 27 roadster
     
  17. Dirtynails
    Joined: Jan 31, 2009
    Posts: 844

    Dirtynails
    Member
    from garage

    That mag looks like some sort battery powered thing that women use to "relax "with.
     
  18. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Yes Bobby you need someone else's motor to go faster :D

    If you listen to the railroad tracks you can hear the sound of faster 'Cans' being built! Quick get outta the way before the train hits you. Or maybe just run by taking your records in spades.

    Before you ladies get all twisted-up! Bobby and I are friends even though I never got a tee shirt from him.
     
  19. 88daryl88
    Joined: Aug 7, 2006
    Posts: 184

    88daryl88
    Member


    The joy of magnetos is you don't need batteries to get your 'old girl' started,
    she just needs a firm push from behind. :p

    Magneto & Titanium Man
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2009
  20. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 9,912

    RichFox
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    <TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top>Thanks to Rich Fox for offering to post these pictures.

    I will try to explain how I made the seal housing and adapter, I started with a round section of aluminum about 11" in dia. by about 4" thick. It needs to be cut in two and bolted back together as 1/2 will be bolted to the back of the block using the old magneto ring bolt holes. The other half with the newly drilled and tapped holes will form the bottom half and the modified oil pan will bolt to the front of this. I hope the pictures will show this better. It is difficult to explain with out seeing it. Bolt the two halves back together and chuck it up in the lathe. The split line needs to be centered as that will wind up even with the pan rail. I turned the outside to the desired diameter. I purchased a mid-motor plate from a drag race supplier and used this as the actual adapter plate. These plates come CNC machined with the bolt pattern for the bell housing, starter hole and bolts and a large center hole. While I had the piece in the lathe, I turned a step to match the hole in the center of the motor plate. In the bore of the seal housing you need to turn a groove to accept the Burtz model A rear main seal. The housing is then turned around in the lathe and hollowed out to clear the protrusions on the back of the block and the rear main cap. It is necessary to put in the bolt pattern to bolt the upper half to the block, the lower half to the back of the oil pan. And drill and tap some holes to hold the plate to this housing. The reason for using a 1927-27 block is that it has the upper support bosses cast in the block like the Model A. It is necessary to use these bosses for support. I made a steel flywheel using a 302 Ford starter gear. That way I can just bolt up a stock 302 Ford starter. I hope this is helpful information and it can be understood</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
     

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  21. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,048

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    Before you ladies get all twisted-up! Bobby and I are friends even though I never got a tee shirt from him.
    what kinda "T" shirt . i may want one ................. steve
     
  22. thanks. I think you said that you are using a model A crank, since you made the adapter/ spacer, did you still cut down the rear main on the crank, or did you leave it at the stock model A length?

    On the crank, what type of insert bearings are you running?
     
  23. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 26,936

    The37Kid
    Member

    The sun was out all day and Bluto posted on the HAMB, it was a great day!
     
  24. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

  25. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,114

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Sun is out!

    Great do a tech on that.......




    Bobby was going to give me a shirt since I was a size large.... :D
     
  26. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,048

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    sounds like we miss you ! ............... but dont get no big head about it .... steve
     
  27. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,163

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Good to hear from ya Bluto........How is the Hal coming along?

    .
     
  28. wayneat
    Joined: Apr 20, 2009
    Posts: 32

    wayneat
    Member


    I am using the Model A crank and leave the rear full length. I am using Contenental and Onan bearings. I can't remember which one is on the rods and mains. My next engine will use the new 1 piece Model A bearings that are now available. It would make it easier to get the oil holes where they are supposed to be, plus not having to mess with muliple inserts per journal. Thanks for offering to post these pictures. I had already sent them to Rich.
     
  29. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 7,132

    noboD
    Member

    Gee, that was a while ago!
     
  30. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 26,936

    The37Kid
    Member



    Photo should save typing a 1000 words.
     

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