April Bang-er thread 2011 OOOGGGAAA BOOOGAAA

Nice..............any more pics............?


Thanks


Keith

 

Its Daytona Parts Company out of New Smyrna Fl. I checked their site but its very basic and not a lot of info. When I called, the lady was very helpful, so hopefully I will get the right part. Looks like they have kits for a lot of different stuff and also do rebuilds.

 

My video got erased, I'll get a new copy and send it, Pat

 

http://www.daytonaparts.com

<b><big>Daytona Parts Company </big>
1191 Turnbull Bay Road
New Smyrna Beach, Florida
32168 </b>

[SIZE=+1]Phone: (386) 427-7108[/SIZE][SIZE=+1] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Fax: (386) 423-8528 [/SIZE]
EMAIL: [email protected] ​

 

Here is an adapter plate I made for fellow HAMBer Stovebolt for the Chevy T-5 to AA bellhousing:

 

I just got my magna flux results back from Taylor engine...
'B' diamond block.... Trash, cracked from valve seat to cylinder in two places.
'C' crank... Cracked three places.
Bummer!!!
Hope you all had a better day than me. TK

 

Nice look-in plate Daddyo
I was thinking you had to use a thicker plate with the AA for every thing to line up. How thick is your plate (5/8")??? The thinner plate would be much cheaper

 

1/2"

Same as the one I did for the Jeep trans.

.

 

I was trying to send a video but it failed, so I'll send some more pics, the rod & piston is in this engine. Pat

 

not using stock pedals?
tk

 

You can, but you have to make a bracket for them.
Like this:

 

Now that is more like it !!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks
I need the thinker one so I can use the stock pedals I think the other style is .875
But using the AA and the 1/2 plate that would clear the center cross member a little better

 

wow!!! I put the kids to bed and you unleash the rod and piston PORN
Did you make the rods too?

 

Thanks Dan,

I'm now one step closer to getting the car together.

 

That's really a nice clean installation, too bad Henry was so stubborn!

 

I made the rod and my son machined the piston for me, if you look close you can see the dome on top, that's how we got 11:1 comp. in the Jenkins head. Pat

 

Here is a video from Pat:

 

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Nice.........some sweet little 'hotties' there........


.

.

 

That's funny my boys and I watched that video Thur. after noon. I was going to post it but I didn't know how

 

Hi Pat I tried to PM you about details on that B front plate set up but it may not have gone through we are still having problems after the huge earthquake here and continuing aftershocks 5.3 last night let me know if it did not come through?

 

That IS a bummer! Did they (Taylor) say that the block might be usable for an OHV application? Or, is the crack in the cylinder too much; that it can't be sleeved

I had a B block bored out and sleeve to .125" over. Ran real good 'til the crank broke at the rear main. At that time Taylor had me throw it away, 'cause the water jackets had cracked. I think, probably from lack of structural rigidity due to boring it out through the water jackets.

I think Dan Eubanks still make an aftermarket crank. Ask Taylor.

 

The guys at Taylor didn't recommend fixing it the way it was cracked. They said it could possibly be used for an overhead conversion like a Miller.

Crazydaddyo sent me this link from the Ford Barn that shows a crack similar to mine, mine's a little worse, it sounds like allot of guys just fix them with good results. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ighlight=crack

But, since I'm not in a big hurry I think I'm going to wait to find a better block to start with. Also they have a few good 'C' cranks there I can use. I'm starting to think the B in Model "B" is for Big as in Big budget.

 

Speaking of cracked cranks, here's some pictures of welded cranks. One had the flywheel flange cracked 50%! The others i welded were for preventative maintenance and also to use a 350 chev seal. Pat

 

I have had 4 "B" blocks in the last few years and all 4 were/are cracked. All are reparable 2 had cracks between valve seat and cylinder that were successfully repaired and used with overheads another one has what appears to be older Ni Rod exterior repair but needs work in the valve chamber floor. The old sprint car block has a crack that was apparently caused when the hard seat was installed as the area is slightly depressed. "B"'s are thinner in the deck surface than the "A"'s. Ted from Ted's brake kits says he repairs them successfully with his wire feed welder. Jim Brierley has used someone closer to you in Riverside, Gregg Thompson PM me for contact information. Cast Iron repair specialist.

.

 

I've got a lead on a few B blocks, what areas should I looks at, specifically, before sending them out to be checked?

 

The deck is thinner on the "B" so the most obvious area is from valve seats to cylinders.

 

Great, thanks Bill.

 

I have a couple "A" diamonds I would let go if anyones interested.-Weeks

 

Do you have any decent "A" cranks to go with them?