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Technical ***April 2020 Banger Meet Thread - Shelter in Shop***

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Mar 31, 2020.

  1. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,081

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    when i was a kid , we had slang names for most all peeps . none meant bad , but it was what it was .
    OKIE JOES in texas builds axles .......... i had mine dropped & stretched (full fenders) . fit perfect and still does .
     
    Old Dawg likes this.
  2. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 399

    railcarmover

    Growing up back east we were proud of our ethnic heritage..whats considered slurs today were terms of friendship and recognition..
    the die is cast,rubber rake it is, 215/70 on the rear, 205/50 on the front..3" drop..it aint nothing special..
     
    winduptoy likes this.
  3. Which has better performance and durability for a mild engine? finding an old pump and rebuilding it, or the new ones you can buy. I realize which is going to save money....
     
  4. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,081

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    are you pressurizing ? staying dipper ?
     
  5. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 642

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Stipe pump is really nice but $ I just rebuilt mine was easy but I have a machine shop so I have all of the right tools.If your going to rebuild I would recommend the new melling shaft and gears seam to be very good quality.
     
  6. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 642

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Last nights night shift project making valve cover and oil filter housing.Just have to figure out how to plumb this thing up. banger.jpg
     
    Dustyp489, fur biscuit, 97 and 7 others like this.
  7. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,097

    johnneilson
    Member

    If you are going full pressure oiling system make sure to have some sort of pressure relief.
    It has been common to use an external relief or a modified V8 pump with internal relief.
    I made these for my own motors.
    IMG_0957.jpg
     
    burl, Old Dawg, Crazydaddyo and 3 others like this.
  8. briphaeton
    Joined: Dec 29, 2011
    Posts: 38

    briphaeton
    Member
    from cal

    I like the way you reversed the flow by turning it upside down. Does it come out to be the same length as a A pump?
     
    Crazydaddyo and winduptoy like this.
  9. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,097

    johnneilson
    Member

    Thanks, reversed it works well
    no, it is shorter than "A" pump, it gets an extension out of the blue cap that is adjustable to hold it up in the block.
    I also use an aluminum tube that I can put in the pan strategically placed.
     
    Old Dawg and winduptoy like this.
  10. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,171

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Is it held in place by a spring like the stock pump?
    What do you use for a pick up?

    Nice work.

    .
     
  11. As it is a mild engine, simmons head 1.7 intake valves and dual 81's, oh and inserts. I was planning on staying with dipper set up.
     
  12. Also, hooked up the linkage on the Dual strombergs, a spring on each carb seems like alot. of course I am using my hand and not the throttle pedal at this point. Should I go with one spring?
     
  13. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,081

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    one should be good , if it has leverage . tied together or progressive ?
     
  14. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,081

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    im using a "V-8" pump modified . preset inside . i run pretty sticky oil , when cold (steady 20#)
    when warm (25 - 27 #s) . held to block with a "distributor type" forked hold down . been running 8 yrs ...........
     
  15. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 399

    railcarmover

    There is a big difference between the requirements of full performance and a modified flathead street car. Pressurized mains and rods.or just mains is good,but not necessary in a mild flathead street car.
     
  16. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,081

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    balanced crank , aluminum rods & ross pistons . pressurized system (full) (v8 pump)
    lion 3 speed head (7-1) , 126 psi each cylinder . daily driver .
     
  17. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,584

    97
    Member

    So at what point do you think a motor needs full pressure ? What determines the need? type of bearings?, rpm? , crank ?compression? or ? Do all OHV conversions specify pressurised oil?
     
    rwrj likes this.
  18. klawockvet
    Joined: May 1, 2012
    Posts: 375

    klawockvet
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    For me it was being comfortable driving at freeway speeds for relatively long distances. Even though I have driven a lot of miles with the stock oiling system I am happier with full pressure and inserted bearings. I enjoy cruising in the 60 to 70 mile range and I believe that requires full pressure and inserted bearings. I especially like having full pressure when the speedometer goes past 75.
     
  19. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,584

    97
    Member

    So was the oil pump because of insert bearings? did you drill a stock crank, or buy an aftermarket one? Did you also add a filtration system and an/or upgraded , new or aftermarket oilpump . What pressure do you run at what revs? Lightend flywheel and damper?
    If it is a drilled for pressure stock crank , have you had any issues with broken crank or bearing failures? Why is insert better than babbit? How many rpm at 70mph?
     
  20. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,081

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    ditto on above . i drive mine alot . pressurized & inserts . just makes me feel better . 2 750 mi one way trips . 1500 mi at 60 - 65 @ 1900 rpm ......... nice feeling when your in BF desert .
    now racing is johns game . billet , high pressure , dry sump .......... john knows
     
  21. I am doing Progressive.

    For me I am doing the inserts because it is getting harder to find people to do the Babbitt. My guy can do Babbitt for an A but would need to build the parts to do it for a B block.
     
  22. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,081

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    progressive i used 2 light springs .........
     
  23. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 399

    railcarmover

    A counterbalanced crankshaft does more for engine protection at high speed than pressure lubrication,the stock A dynamic crank flexes at high rpm..Both gravity and pressure satisfy the hydrodynamic principle of supporting a shaft on a thin film of oil.pressurization keeps the bearing cleaner and is a must with insert bearings.Modern engine technology is where you guys are at,I've got a fresh babbit/a crank engine.B flywheel and harmonic balancer,hopefully it reduces the torsional flex enough to last...next build is counterbalanced crankshaft.. pressure? maybe.
     
  24. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,081

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    yep , it whips the center main right out
     
  25. Ford28
    Joined: Dec 1, 2007
    Posts: 23

    Ford28
    Member

    What rear end ratio are you using?

    Thanks
     
  26. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,081

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    running 3:27 r/p with quick change geared as high as i can , 31" rear tires , s10 5 speed
     
  27. johnneilson
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,097

    johnneilson
    Member

    You are asking for opinion, every one has one, just like anatomy.
    IMHO, if you are putting together a completely stock Model "A" motor, run it as is. Do not expect any longer life, performance or reliability.
    It is my opinion that an "A" crank should never be drilled for oiling the rods. There just is not enough material there to take some away by drilling holes. Look up what Harold Hicks said about the "A" design.
    Putting a direct oil line to the center main is necessary.
    IMHO, anything over 75 HP should be built with full pressure, filtered oiling system. This means a "C" crank in "A" block minimum and not ground to "A" crank diameters.
    If you go OHV and want to really run it, a "B" block, "C" crank and more.

    There will always be stories of how so and so used a .030 under "A" crank and made 200 HP that lasted for years.
    With the current state of part availability and the cost of building why take too many chances.
    It also depends on what you are doing with the car, Steve drives his daily and on the freeway. This is not the design parameter for a stock "A" motor. Hill climbs and drag racing are short duration blasts lasting less that 10-20 seconds. Bonneville is another story completely, my last good pass took 21 seconds to go a mile. Above 6700 rpm and that did not include the 2 preceding miles to get up to speed.

    Whatever way you choose, enjoy the fact that you have an antique that still runs, John
     
  28. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,081

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    amen john !!
     
  29. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 642

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    I like opinions especially if its coming from somebody that has actually tried and witnessed actual data that shows the outcome.Seams like most information you hear on banger mods are mostly od wives tails or repeated in formation somebody heard from somebody else that who knows the origin.You mention adding direct oil line to center main is it as effective coming from the bottom up.Read some opinions on this not being real effective.
     
  30. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,081

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    anyone here from Nova Scotia .............. very sorry for your loss . random shootings are generally cowards , like drive by's . again , sorry for your loss
     

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