The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Mar 31, 2019.
That 22# is a pretty trick looking piece!
Went for a spin yesterday after work. Need to lean it out a little but starts and runs good with the burns/97's combo. One carb had 45's in it, the other 52's(!) A lot quieter with stock exhaust but that's ok. It'll get a straight pipe after I get the timing nailed down.
Yes it is...I'm kind of thinking that it might become the popular one
Sent from my XT1254 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
so far so good...30 minutes of idling with the pressure cap on
Sent from my XT1254 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Bit of an update on the A motor I’m rebuilding.
I’m changing the ports on the F head from side draft to semi downdraft. The reason is that the ports were so flat that the flow was below 50%. The 1-7/8” valve was flowing less than a 1-1/4” valve in a 1960's pre Crossflow engine.
The head is a two part jobbie so a bit easier to work on. First bit was to weld up the existing ports. For this I filled the void with weld rather than make shaped pieces and weld in. The idea was that when I start the porting I don’t want to be limited, ie not going through the welds and exposing cracks.
The top part of the head I welded four tube parts at a 40* angle. This will be the new port angle. And like the first part was fully welded. Total Welding time was 20 hours.
A plate was welded on as a mounting flange for the intake manifold. I also couldn’t stand the hard corner billet look so attacked it with a sander to give it some shape.
Using a friends mill the head was set up on the table and a 35mm hole bored through. Ignore the slight scar, the end mill jumped out and skipped along the face because I didn’t bolt the mill head up tight enough. It welded up fine.
Still with only 35mm bore I finished up the ends of the port by hand. Just to see where we were and in the right place. The head will go back in the mill and eventually be opened up to 45mm.
I’m also working on the bottom end. The front and rear main caps were already fitted to the motor by the original builder as was a similar centre cap. I’ve made a new centre cap wider so it can be bolted to a couple of plates to tie the block together and strengthen the centre bearing.
That looks like a fun project- nice work!
WOW !! I like your interpretation of the Riley chambers also.
Amazing talent. Let's see the 'drawing'..lol
I have an original alum Cragar intake (single) that would benefit from a guy with your skills/talents. A lot of these old intakes had an 'ear' broken off, as in this case.
I'd give you this intake, if interested, so that you can perform your creative magic on it ! PM me if this interests you.
Running the traps at Auburn today..
First cabin job, I am proud of you and your quality work
Was the Rem Offy Shanahan's car ?
There were TWO REM OFFYs at Auburn today!! A yellow '32, & a black roadster(too busy drooling over the motors to pay attention to the car!! LOL!!)
aww hell I have to go on a rant...one of the rem offys had a 727 chrysler automatic behind it..I know a brother took a lot of time, money and effort making that car,and it ran well..but from the cheap seats it ran looked and sounded like a Pinto..
Need help identifying this sound.
Recently rebuilt banger. Runs great, but has this odd miss, or sputter. Shakes the car slightly, rpm dips, and vacuum drops ever, ever so slightly. Ideas?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/116bravqtju7phg/Video Apr 06, 5 12 31 AM.mov?dl=0
Yeah, the 727 is the auto used by the old timers, as they fit the bill well for use with a banger.
Old timers, who I know that use this auto, are not in the best of conditions. Did you happen to notice the age or physical condition of the owner ?
One day, maybe sooner than later, I will be grateful to have a 727, if I can find someone who can install it.
Brother Walt made a pass with his 29 roadster...at 87 years old..Todd hit the traps too,at 35..everybody acts like a kid at the climb,great time by all
How does it run under load?.Run her some,let it break in real good before trying to achieve a good tune.
The yellow car is Dan Shanahan's out of the wine country, was with him Tuesday, hoping that we will get together Friday for our informal cocktail session at the cam grinders.
Thank you both!
Who was the King of the Hill?
Runs great under load. No hesitation or flat spots. That’s why I’m so hesitant to fudge around with the tune, but that little “burping” is annoying me.
Im with ya,but let it go,she needs to break in some,it looks very fresh
That's pretty cool.I did a lot of cutting on mine but still ended up around 43lbs.Not sure were it would have been safe to remove more without reducing wall sections.Do these bangers need some weight to offset some balance issues or is that just a myth ?
@burl I've heard that also. But from what I've gathered is the weight of the flywheel was to help lug the motor if you were stick in mud and was easier to get the motor going when hand cranking it. Are any of them true???
While working on my '31 Coupe I've been kicking around the idea for another T roadster. One iteration would be a more "modern" approach, and the 2nd is quite traditional. For the traditional approach I'd dig out the Model A driveline that I didn't end up using in my '31 for various reasons that would be pointless to go into.
In getting a Model A banger in shape I'd be facing either having mains and rods re-babbitted, or going to inserts on mains and possibly rods too. I'm hoping for a 55-60-ish HP banger in the end, so nothing wild at all. In considering the costs involved, it appears that it would be somewhat comparable to go either way, Babbitt or inserts. Most shops I've found that do re-babbitting are 5-6 hours or farther away from where I live in Southeast Missouri. I'm wondering if there's any reason that a local performance engine builder I know couldn't do the line boring necessary to do the insert conversion for the mains? It would save me a bunch of time and/or money in transporting parts to a rebuilder if the line boring is straightforward work and could be done locally.
If I'm not mistaken Bert's has re-babbitted rods for about $60 each with no core charge, and that seems really reasonable compared to other pricing I've seen for either babbit or insert bearing rods while researching possibilities.
Input is appreciated.
Took my engine to Bert’s last fall for a look see. Picked it up a couple of weeks ago and fired it up yesterday. Went from a 3” pulley to the stock 5” and had problems finding a 44” fan belt. Everything is back together and runs great. Heading for Lincoln in June for the Speedster Reunion at Speedway Motors.
Link to the May 2019 Banger Thread
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