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Technical ***April 2019 Banger Meet - No fooling - just 4***

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Mar 31, 2019.

  1. Maybe the tube drain the excess oil from the front timing gears or the entire valve case? I don't see any return tube like the model A engine!

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  2. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,121

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    That may not be a return. That may be a supply for a external oil pump. Returns rarely went to the bottom of the pan. The returns would have better effect to dump into the valve chamber or on to the timing gear.

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  3. Jet96
    Joined: Dec 24, 2012
    Posts: 847

    Jet96
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from WY

    Crazydaddyo- that could be, I sure wish I had another angle on that side of the engine. That engine is pretty cool any way I looked at it.
     
  4. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 108

    railcarmover

    Ideal 'quench' is .040,quench is the distance from the piston crown to the head at TDC..
     
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  5. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 543

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Working on something similar but a little different.I have better picks I will post later with more of the finished parts together.It took a lot of trial and error to get the brake/clutch pedal shaft in the right spot for everything to work.Had to narrow up some of the areas on the pedals were they ride on the shaft to get them in the right spots to work correctly. Had to reshape the edge of the brake pedal where it hit the steering column as well.Theres not a lot of room in that space to get it to work like it should.I like the support bracket for the shaft shown in your pictures as mine needs more support for the downward pressure the clutch pedal makes when its pushed in.
    brake.jpg
     
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  6. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,821

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    I have ross pistons that are 0000 out of bore ……...
     
  7. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,821

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    BURL , what pressure plate & clutch disc is that . looks good
     
  8. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 377

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    Burl,
    Isn't that a Volvo transmission?
     
  9. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 543

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Yes it is I like to go against the grain in the end I hope it all works
     
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  10. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 543

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Volvo Amazon
     
  11. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 543

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    attached some additional pics,hope it helps brake 1.jpg brake 2.jpg
     
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  12. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,821

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    thank you
     
  13. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,821

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    has anyone tried a ceramic resistor with a resistor coil ? im killing coils faster than I can buy them ………. apparently not a good idea . talked to fsi , could harm things .
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2019
  14. rwrj
    Joined: Jan 30, 2009
    Posts: 377

    rwrj
    Member
    from SW Ga

    Burl,
    Those are great transmissions. I want to try one of the ones with the Laycock OD. I have one, but it's hooked to a real healthy b18 engine, so I'm not anxious to break that pair up.
     
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  15. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 1,454

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    No, haven't. So you are running 12V?

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  16. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 1,454

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    So my OHV in the Vicky runs really good but....the block is cracked and no miracle in a bottle works.
    The cracks had been bondo up and painted over. The machine shop in Wyoming, Michigan, that I got the engine from, represented it as 'ready to install'. I've had to go thru the head as the valves were so sloppy and rockers so worn it was totally unsatisfactory.
    I'm going to lace the cracks with 10-32 hardware screws. After wasting two and a half days talking to stitch-n-lock folks I've decided to do what I've had success with in the past. I'm using Locktite and peening the end of the screw... IMG_20190420_095301990.jpg IMG_20190420_095304684.jpg I'll post finished photos

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  17. Shutter Speed
    Joined: Feb 2, 2017
    Posts: 363

    Shutter Speed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    ^^^Are you saying THAT's repairable??^^^
     
  18. Jet96
    Joined: Dec 24, 2012
    Posts: 847

    Jet96
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from WY

    Damn that's a shame!
     
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  19. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,821

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    what the heck happened ?? bummer
     
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  20. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,821

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.

    yes but was told by FSI not to …… I trust them !
     
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  21. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 1,454

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yes, I believe that it is. I am relearning things that I did a long time ago..and had a mentor....should have listened closer when he said "put attention"
    There is a technique and I recall the principles. I got the one on the right laced up. I found that there has been nickle welding on the cracks and I got into some hard stuff, really hard.
    I'm taking a break and I'll post some photos later.

    I haven't shown a photo of the crack under the water pump on the front of the block
    Got to pull the radiator
     
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  22. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 1,454

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yes it is. I don't care, just tell me what I am getting ready to buy and don't represent it as something it isn't.
    I'm wanting to take this to the dirt drags and I clearly can't run it this way. I'll make it better or worse...but then It will be my fault.

    This is a B block and they have a reputation for having 'thin deck' material.
    The material really isn't very meaty here, about 3/16". I suspect someone got it really hot and put cold water in it....more than once. There is also collateral damage from the welding repairs. The only real way to weld cast iron is to preheat it in a furnace for around 850-900 degrees F. Then touch weld with cast rod. Then you have to have a controlled cool down. The existing welds weren't done that way.
    I really can't loose anything here
     
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  23. IMG_2160.JPG Anyone have a single intake they’d sell? Realized I can’t fit the flange on the right way after welding it on. Going on a budget banger project!!


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  24. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 1,454

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

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  25. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 6,744

    noboD
    Member

    The machinist in me makes me want to do this sometime, just don't want to HAVE to on my own engine. Hope it works for you. In that area couldn't you braze it too?
     
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  26. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 1,454

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You can do this...I know that you are patient. The problem with brazing is multifold. The cast will continue to crack in the heat zone between the chilled and the hot material....you can chase a crack all over. Termination of the crack is difficult. Once the area is brazed you are committed...no turning back.
    I'd had to disassemble to a point, at least taken the head off. I'm still working on the technique but it is coming along. IMG_20190420_124343078.jpg

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  27. JT1930
    Joined: Jul 1, 2018
    Posts: 119

    JT1930
    Member

    Getting close.

    90A7AF2E-4A17-47BE-A333-862395C51578.jpeg
     
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  28. Jet96
    Joined: Dec 24, 2012
    Posts: 847

    Jet96
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from WY

  29. Jet96
    Joined: Dec 24, 2012
    Posts: 847

    Jet96
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from WY

    Only other pic of that Cragar banger I have.
     
  30. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 1,454

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

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