Doug, Since nobody's had any answers to your questions, I'll try to address them. The only caveat is that I know NOTHING about the architecture of the Model T block. 1. The rule of thumb for oil pressure is 10 psi per 1000 rpm 2. When the whole system is pressurized, I go for a pick up (shielded with anti-vortex or drysump tube pickups)), pump, filter (then storage tank if drysump), oil distribution gallery, crank, cam (with spray on cam gear) 3. Pressure relief is in the pump. 4. Wrist pins and Piston skirts are lubed by drilling a hole in the top side of the rods at the crank cap and bearing. No more than 3/32nd (if that much). 5. Oil storage can be anywhere. Gravity shouldn't an issue; but the number of stages in the oil pump will be. I, for example, in my current engine (in the race car) have the oil storage under the crankcase, separated by a series of baffles. I' m one that believe's that oil is not only a lubricant, but a coolant. Therefore my system contains about 2 gallons of oil. Further, oil storage should be of the type that the inlet should be on a tangent and the outlet should have a vertical stack, all to provide surface area to rid the oil of foam. 6. By all means use compression, or better yet, AN fittings. With all this said: if it were my project, I'd get rid of the Model T tranny. Even though Dan McEachran, in San Jose, has modifications for them, those transmission must eat up a bunch of power and create a lot of heat; that all your engine "mods' are going to be for not. I'd go for a Volvo 45. Or if you want to stay "in period" an early Chevrolet 3 speed.