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Anyone paint over original paint

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Shane Spencer, Dec 26, 2012.

  1. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,161

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Im buildin an apache for a daily driver. I want a decent paint job, but its a truck and will be used like one so im not worried about keeping it perfect by any means. Ive heard alot of opinions and read about etching vs epoxy primers over original paint. Id like to hear from anyone whos done this. All my sheetmetal is good original paint, and i feel that stripping or sandblasting may be a waste of time and money since im not looking for a perfect show car finish and since it may be possible to acheive a good paint job without doing it. Id like to hear some real world experience from yall who have done this. Any help is appreciated. Thanks - shane

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  2. hd4unm
    Joined: Dec 6, 2012
    Posts: 151

    hd4unm
    Member

    You can generally paint over existing paint if; the adhesion below is intact and the paint is not checked or cracked. Basically if the paint structure is sound, okay.

    All other normal prep applies.
     
  3. the original paint is not catalyzed best to remove it. that said, if you sand it, and use an epoxy primer to "lock" it down, you can paint over it. i have done this in the past with good results, and minor failures.
     
  4. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,161

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    The only parts i have to strip are the doors. Theyve had multiple paint layers and i need to weld in new bottoms. The cab, fenders and bed parts are all og paint and not chipping or cracked

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  5. hd4unm
    Joined: Dec 6, 2012
    Posts: 151

    hd4unm
    Member

    Also keep an eye out for small blisters/bubbles, pits. Could be rust buried and not at the surface. Beyond the paint quality... make sure to feather back the paint on all exposed edges, like both side of a door jamb. You'll gain the crisp appearance and help ensure proper clearances when done. I over-coated older factory finishes all the time in production and custom environments at a time when fancy epoxies were not even considered or considered overkill by cost. No problems ever from factory paint.
     
  6. Rusty Kustoms
    Joined: Feb 5, 2006
    Posts: 238

    Rusty Kustoms
    Member

    You should put a base of epoxy down first, cheap insurance. Just remember it is not a build primer. Epoxy, body work, build primer, sealer, base, clear, follow these steps and you shouldn't have any problems.
     
  7. RoadsterRod1930
    Joined: Jun 15, 2005
    Posts: 415

    RoadsterRod1930
    Member
    from NEPA

    take into account previous posts...

    plus an adage ive heard from old timers

    "you can put lacquer over anything, but cant put anything over lacquer"
     
  8. Backwards quote, lacquer will eat most other paints.

    You can recoat over og paint with no problems. sand it good and primer then paint should keep the cost down. you can use an epoxy first if you feel the need but we never used it back before it came out without any problems.
     
  9. cheepsk8
    Joined: Sep 5, 2011
    Posts: 609

    cheepsk8
    Member
    from west ky

    Some good advise above, but remember the paint is over 50 years old and no matter how well the new paint lays down, it is still a top coat on a very old paint job. I would give that some thought as well.
     
  10. henryj1951
    Joined: Sep 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,305

    henryj1951
    Member
    from USA

    oh good .... here we go....
     
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2012
  11. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,161

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Thanks for the info guys. Henryj, got any information to offer or are you just gonna spread your pissy mood?

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  12. henryj1951
    Joined: Sep 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,305

    henryj1951
    Member
    from USA

    Shane, It is possible to paint over (multi) paint jobs...
    here is the main problem ...
    If you seal on top of any (bad / other ) previous paint jobs...
    it may and can look ok, but for how long?...as you 've STILL got a bad (old)
    substrate.
    Lacquer is a paint that some consider as a live paint, ie: thats why it can be buffed back to a luster( kinda like giving it a hair cut).
    Enamel is ...well ...like... more dead paint (not like lacquer).
    So you seal your NEW paint away from the OLD, it is still down there.
    I'd strip and go from there.
    You keeping the (car / truck ) investment for ever.... strip it.
    You selling it off 1/ 5 years down the road ... well that's up to you.
    Car lots for years have done the ol (earl scheib ) macco thing because there selling the car off, and want it to look good for a WHILE.
    :cool:
     
  13. Aussie Chev
    Joined: Dec 21, 2011
    Posts: 26

    Aussie Chev
    Member

    I've done it with good results for a daily driver
    Epoxy
    Body work
    Hi build
    Sealer
    Top coat
     
  14. Checkerwagon
    Joined: Jul 30, 2007
    Posts: 449

    Checkerwagon
    Member

    "daily driver" is the qualifier here. Sand, seal and paint is fine. Take your time prepping the old paint, then take a bit more. I see you're in MD, wait for good weather to seal and paint. The weather is too humid to do a decent garage paint job right now, remember, primer is porous which allows moisture through to any bare metal surfaces.
     
  15. Don't do it!!
     
  16. henryj1951
    Joined: Sep 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,305

    henryj1951
    Member
    from USA

    Shane,
    With the amount of work you have done so far(nice work) you should care for it a LITTLE more and strip it.
    That truck is a KEEPER.
    :cool:
     
  17. afaulk
    Joined: Jul 20, 2011
    Posts: 1,194

    afaulk
    Member

    From a guy who's painted a bunch of em, over the last 40 yrs, if it's really factory paint and its really solid, it just makes a good primer coat. Stripping it is absolutely a waste of time. If it hasn't peeled or checked by now it won't ever. Apply 2 coats of epoxy sealer, then high build primer for blocking, seal again and paint.
     
  18. heeheehee-- Don't think so!!
     
  19. How old are you? i am with afaulk on this and i have been doing this for over 35 years, and have done plenty and only had 1 go bad within a 15 year period...and that was because he never did anything to it, no wash no wax nothing. the factory paint in these years is put on better than any after market paint job ever could be.
     
  20. henryj1951
    Joined: Sep 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,305

    henryj1951
    Member
    from USA


    no wash = makes the paint goes bad


    no wax = makes the paint go bad


    WOW
     
  21. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,161

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Thanks for the info guys. I may have it stripped......

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  22. hd4unm
    Joined: Dec 6, 2012
    Posts: 151

    hd4unm
    Member

    I just looked over your build thread again and should have when you first posed this question about paint. Man, you got too much into this project to short cut the paint process at this point. And based on what I see in your parts and panels, you'll be much happier with the results and find your paint prep going forward much easier. You have way to many grind and sanding marks to try and feather it all out.

    To me it is not whether painting over old is possible, which it is, you just have too much going on to make it all level again without lots of pain.

    Strip it!
     
  23. henryj1951
    Joined: Sep 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,305

    henryj1951
    Member
    from USA

    and to all a good night
    and a happy new year..........
     
  24. Shane Spencer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,161

    Shane Spencer
    Member

    Thanks man, and i agree. Ive had to fix some dents and things so theres a lot of areas down to bare metal already, plus all the shaved holes etc etc. A guy quoted me 350 bucks to blast my cab, doors and bedsides. He said he would work with me on the rest of the price if i do it all at once. And he can blast it behind my shop and save me the hassle of transporting it all

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  25. hd4unm
    Joined: Dec 6, 2012
    Posts: 151

    hd4unm
    Member

    Hopefully he's got experience with this and not a hack. I've seen too many disasters from blasters that do not know what they are doing. Your perfectly flat/smooth panels can come out looking like a wash board and you'll never see it until you start working on them. Just ask the right questions; Like how many did you warp before knowing what you are doing?
    Better safe than sorry.
     
  26. Tnomoldw
    Joined: Dec 5, 2012
    Posts: 1,563

    Tnomoldw
    Member

    Henry ,Do you remember puting laqure thinner in enamel to make it dry faster ?
     
  27. If the factory paint is on good, it is a great base. I have painted one of my cars twice with the 1968 Paint still under these two paint jobs. It use to be a light blue and then was scuffed and painted red. I stripped the red off after 20 years back in 2003 . I was amazed that the original paint was still in good shape under the red. I scuffed, sealed it with epoxy sealer, high build primer, blocked, sealed and painted again!!! It looks killer with nothing coming through and I don't think it will ever!!! Great base coat!
     
  28. henryj1951
    Joined: Sep 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,305

    henryj1951
    Member
    from USA


    yes
     
  29. henryj1951
    Joined: Sep 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,305

    henryj1951
    Member
    from USA

    hd4 is CORRECT...
    that said i have blasted a many (old) 55 56 57 58 's
    trucks and cars.

    now its those newere ones with THIN SKIN... that warp ...:cool:
     
  30. If the original finish is laquer than what you have is an unstable base...solvents in todays paints will weaken "the base" over time. Some guys will use water based primer to act as a barrier coat.. you might get away with it, but dont say you werent warned. Do this as a test, spill some thinner on your truck and let it sit for a few minutes..then wipe it and see what happens. This will give you an idea if you should proceed or not. You could always take a 8" grinder on a soft pad with some 80 grit and go to town on it or get 5 3M clean and strips discs and strip most of the paint away
     

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