anyone on here work at Eagle??? installed a new crank from eagle cranks in a line bored block won't turn!?!if you loosened the center main it would turn........checking all the mains there is not enough oil clearance on any of the mains/not even minimum??? took it to a machine shop he said that mains are too narrow /that is the radius on the cranks are too large he has to turn it 10 under to correct the runout as it was too much &hour glass shape side to side....... am calling/email Eagle for their response.......the Quality control from some USA companys suck just sent back roller rockers cause they would of come apart from poor assembly that was very easy to see.............talked to summit they are sending a gift card to cover machine costs&replacing bearings with 10 under set THANKS SUMMIT
update>>>just got off phone with summit was special ordered from eagle summit is sending a $150oo gift card & new set 10 under bearings they will deal with eagle go to you tube eagle cranks to see same type promblem correction
The radius being out of round is wrong. The radius being too big is right. You modify the bearings to fit. Regrind the crank. Correct the out of roundness but LEAVE the big radius.
Guy's go to you-tube and type in eagle crankshafts, its very interesting. I have no reason to doubt the shop in Wisconsin and the way he re-machined the crankshaft and his claims. He stated the journal was hour-glass shaped and out of dimension by .0020" That's 2 thousanth's of a inch, not .0002" or 2 tenth's of a thousanth's. 100% unacceptable for a crankshaft journal. TR
I've never had an issue with their products. I'd even say that I've been pretty impressed with some of their machine work. Jimmy and the guys are great and really easy to work with...I'm sure they'd make it right.
Well, yes, thats a whole 'nother issue. And a real serious one. Not the first time I have heard it either. Then Car Craft peddles this "stuff" (not the 4 letter word I WANT to use) on the premise that its more cost effective than machining your original crank.Yea, right "just wash it and drop it in"...
The larger radius is to prevent craking at a sharp edge a 90 will tend to crack. We used very expensive Callies cranks in sprintcar engines. We also used chamfered bearings.
Heres a little trick of the trade, I'm sure some of you guy's following this thread will enjoy. And yes it applies to the O/P and his connundrum. Checking the main bearings " pattern ". Set all of your upper main bearing into the main bearing saddles of the block. Set your crank gently into place in the bearings. Now with a trusty wide tip Sharpie marker, give your self a nice black mark all around the radius of each main journal of the crankshaft. Do both radii now not just one side. Install your lower bearing halves into the main caps, and install the caps, and tighten them down. Establish your end play of approx. .004"-.007" end float or end play. Now spin the crank several revolutions in the direction of rotation. Remove the caps and examine the pattern left in the magic marker markings on the journals. If you find that the crank journal radius has been riding up too close to the edges of the bearing, you can lightly add some chamfer to the bearing edge. This would not have helped the O/P with his particular situation, only on a correctly machined crankshaft, TR
Jeez, thats scary. Can you imagine some guy actually taking one of these, washing it and dropping it in like they say in the magazines? Cripes, if I got a crank back from a local machine shop like that(and I have) I would have a fit! The list of machine shops I will never set foot in again is long, and the list of the ones I will deal with is short. Scary thing is, alot of the ones I will use the proprietors are getting old, couple of them are well past retirement age.
When I bought the stroker kit for the sbf in my 27 I did some internet digging and saw so much negative about Eagle stuff I went with a Scat kit instead. I can't say it has been totally perfect either, I am on my 3rd rear seal and have even gone a a high performance slightly undersize seal, and it still leaks. Sometime down the road I am going to pull the engine and have our machinist go through the crank to see if the rear seal journal is out of round or what. I guess this is why the true high performance cranks cost an arm and a leg compared to Eagle and Scat. Don
Pull the pan and rear main cap, then borrow a magnetic base dial indicator to ride on the seal journal. Or make a simple bracket to hold an indicator, going off a pan bolt hole. First thing I'd do, it not assume it's the seal or crank; it could be something else nearby. Might even be leaking past the cap to block surfaces. Look at everything, as or before, it comes apart.
phone na at eagle on the 7th//they ansered this am said return will replace when asked about where machined he said somewhere in calif not at heir shop???wtf!!!......... we trust the local machine shop here in sunvalley>w/o us saying anything that the center main was causing the lockup....he found that the centermain was the worst one.....all of the crank was so far off he is having to go to 10under to correct&will give us the correct oil clearance as well.....even with 1 under bearing it was not enough i want to repeat on our call to SUMMIT they are sending 150oo gift card tocover cost machine work&taking back the bearings& sending 10under set THANKYOU SUMMIT<<<
Since you mentioned Summit stepping up to the plate, they do that very often, which is why so many people are loyal to them. We had a TCI transmission fail within not many miles, and all TCI would do is fix it if we paid the shipping both ways (and it was determined it was TCI's torque convertor that failed ). We called Summit and they kicked in $ 75 to help with the shipping cost. Have never had any issues with Summit in all the time we have been buying from them. Don
If it makes you feel any better a few years back around 02 or 03 I went through 5 cranks from SCAT on a blower motor I was building for a fella. Everything from poor journal sizing to chiped journals. you would have thought that after the first return they would have looked a little closer before shipping.
where I get my cranks done they always have a lot of eagle cranks to do as they don't spec out as received as for large radii it's normal and you have to use narrow bearings
Here is my 2 cents: I own an engine shop and have been using Eagle stuff about 18 years. The stuff can be good and bad. I see good rods and not so good crankshafts. We do alot of 460 style big block Ford racing engines. The Eagle cranks are not so good. Poor grinding and the counter weights look like they were cut with an ax. Be sure and measure the flywheel flange BEFORE you put it in the block. They are Large and in most cases you can't get the flywheel/flexplate on. We have had to grind that as well as main journals. In most cases the mains are large and we can grind .001 -.0015" and get the clearances we want still using standard bearings. We went to using RPM international cranks. The counter weights are much nicer but we still have to grind the mains and flywheel flange right out of the box. Of course when the customer has a larger budget we use Sonny Bryant crankshafts. They look so good when you open the box its almost a shame to put it in the engine! Matt http://pro-formancespecialties.com/
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