Hey, Add boiled linseed oil, a few drops , to thin Rustolum! Don't lay down any really thick lines with it, or it may wrinkle. DO NOT SHOOT CATYLIZED CLEAR OVER IT! Swankey Devils C.C. "Spending A Nation Into Generational Debt Is Not An Act Of Compassion!"
I painted the whole car with it, then pinstriped it with oneshot. Not what you asked for, but spiffy nonetheless.
I used Rust-O-Leum to stripe with back in the 60's until I found 1-Shot.The biggest problem I had then was getting white to cover over anything.Mixing in a little silver greatly increases the coverage and doesn't materially change the color. They used to have their own fish oil based thinner but I'm sure it is available any longer.I used gum turpentine for a reducer but in hot weather it dries too rapidly.Bad thing is turpentine soaked cotton rags will spontaneously combust in hot weather unless they are placed in a sealed fireproof container. For all the grief and aggravation you have to go through it is easier just to use 1-Shot.Use their reducer as well for best results.You can use mineral spirits but if you do use the odorless type.I've had problems with fish-eyes forming when using the regular type.Usually happens with red pigmented colors for some reason. Another reason is you can clear over 1-Shot(if you're careful and follow a prescribed procedure)whereas NOTHING will successfully go over Rust-O-Leum!
All I can say is good luck if you ever decide to do a color change.I have yet to find any type of paint,primer,or surfacer that will go over Rust-O-Leum without puckering the base or fail to dry.If you try and scuff it before shooting,pieces of it roll up into little balls and the base becomes sticky;even if it is old.In typical alklyd resin fashion,the top surface dries hard but the undersurface remains relatively soft.Removing the hard shell causes the soft surface to remain tacky because all of the driers have long since evaporated. The only remedy is to chemical strip the paint;acid etch the surface,and re-coat with whatever medium you want.
One Shot isn't THAT expensive....and it goes a long way. Herb Martinez says to be a good striper......buy a gallon of white One Shot....stripe every thing you can get your hands on.....by the time you use up that can of One Shot you will be a "good striper". At the moment I have about 8 years worth of One Shot left in my gallon can.
I've never pinstriped with it (never have pinstriped at all) but I have used it on several projects. If you thin it with 100% mineral (don't use the odorless type) it will increase the drying time and allow it to flow and self level much better.
Yikes. Really? A friend of mine bought a (non-HAMB compatable) car that had been painted semi-gloss black with Rustoleum (sprayed, not rolled) and is now kicking himself because none of the local painters will touch it. I have access to a small pressure-pot blaster and a few bags of soda, we were considering trying to media blast the Rustoleum off, but after reading your post I dunno. Don't want to use paint stripper because we know the car has filler on it and he doesn't want to re-do the previous body work. On topic: Before the intarnet I could see using something besides One-Shot to stripe with, but since damn near every online retailer sells the stuff now (IIRC even Summit sells it), there's really no sense in using Rustoleum. Especially because by the time you reduce it down to where it'll halfway flow, it doesn't cover worth a damn. Just save yourself some aggravation and cussing and order a couple cans of One-Shot, or that HOK striping paint if you feel like spending some money.
I painted a whole Ford Maverick with white rustoleum thinned with gasoline! Use the cheap stuff to practice and when you're ready get the real stuff!
I roller painted a beater with the True-Value equivalent to Rust-Oleum, the paint was kind of old and the runs/drips never did cure. Not sure I'd do it again given cheap auto paint isn't that much more a gallon. I'd be afraid to stripe anything with it I actually cared about, if you're doing like the barbecue grille cover or the patio furniture or something that's one thing, but it would have to be stripped if you ever wanted to paint the car another color.
Uhh, doesn't RUSToleum only work over RUST!!! Hence the name. "Good Paint ain't Cheap and Cheap Paint ain't Good". Now go sit in the corner for 1 hour.
Practicing with the cheap stuff will just be a waste of time, because the product is as important as the application. Good stuff will not act or perform like cheap stuff, so what are you learning? Old sayings are sometimes dead on, "If it is worth doing, it is worth doing right." "Practice does not make perfect, perfect practice makes perfect."
Learning how to work the brush, kinda like before a live fire, we go dry, blank and then live. Crawl, Walk, Run. By the time you get to the LFX it's all muscle memory.
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