I have this 56 Dodge with a subframe that was installed in 1988 and it sits Too High.I could have it re-subframed or I'm thinking of a different 56 Dodge frame.You can get disc brakes for it if it has a (complete) stock frame.Anyone change a frame from a mid-50's car and how much work is it?
We have done just what you are asking to a couple cars in the shop......fixed botched subframe swaps by using a new frame. It depends on what you call work. It is labor intensive,and yu need some buddies to help lift it on and off. But, you get the chance to fully clean, prep and detail the new frame before swapping thae body. Something lots of us with 50s daily drivers never get the chance to do!
I removed my 51 frame with a nova sub,and built a new frame with an S-10 sub frame.It was worth all of the work.I got rid of all of the rust that's forgotten otherwise.
I had a friend whose Dad owned a body shop. My friend bought an Olds Cutlass with a bent frame. He got a new frame from a junkyard and three of us stripped the car from the old one, put it together on the replacement frame and when we were finished, found out that the replacement was bent also! (NOTE: lesson learned!) We got another frame and did it all again. Was a lot of fun and a great experience. Pulled the front sheet metal, the engine, unbolted the body and disconnected all lines, hoisted the body off, rolled the chassis out, stripped it and put everything on the replacement, rolled it under the body and reversed the process. MAKE SURE THE REPLACEMENT FRAME IS GOOD!!!!!
I am currently putting my 49 packard on a new frame. The frame is a 1974 cougar with a 4 link rear suspension with a 70 nova front clip grafted on. Currently I am air bagging the frame and waiting for the front end rebuild kit. I am also channeling the car. I will throw up some pics when I get the body on the frame. Shawn
Is the sub frame in correct except for the height?Is it square? if it is why dont you just cut the frame you have and put a step in in 2 inch at the fire wall will make a big difference or change spendels. or put a step in the lower control arm or raise the lower ball joint. if its gm use s 10 ball joints and circle track spacers for the balljoint also cut 1 coil on the spring you will be surprised at what small things will do
[ QUOTE ] But, you get the chance to fully clean, prep and detail the new frame before swapping thae body [/ QUOTE ] and thats a BIG plus, WAYYY easier to do than when the body is on it. Same with the body, you can put the car on its side if you have a body rotisserie (very handy) and detail the underbody.........................Briggs
We did a frame off on a merc. It does give you all the opportunities to repair, clean, replace etc. However, it also gives you all the opportunities to to say "while I'm at it why don't I...." In the end these are great opportunities, but they can lead to major project creep and $$$. Dan
First I put new springs in.Then I cut a coil and a half out of it plus the frame is sitting 4 1/2 inches off the ground right now. If I put 2 in. spindles in it we're talking about the frame cleaning the streets when kruizing,while the body still sits Too High. Also ball joint risers are good for a 2 inch difference.I'm looking for some major changes up front. Thats why I was wondering if anyone had changed their frame.Also the subframe in their now doesn't seem to turn as sharp as the old one.And thats why I don't want to cut it and move it up.
John -- If the frame is 4-1/2 inches off the ground now . .. and you want the car to be lower . .. unless I'm missing something, no matter how you get it lower (dropped spindles, balljoint spacers, new sub, new frame) that frame is going to get closer to the ground. The only way you can get the body to be lower and keep the frame the same height off the ground is by channeling. I think. later, Steve.
ummm yeah, if the body is whats not low enuff i dont realy see any other options other then channeling, less you go with adjustable suspension i think chanelings the only way your going to get a low body and still drive it tim
the best thing to do is frame and floor swap, no need to make new body mounts and you have the option to sit the body lower then frame
I would Z a chopped car before I would channel it. You need all the room you can get? I wouldnt channel a car unless you were trying to "hide" the frame- like on a model A. I think its pointless to go though all the floor work and have a step up when you open the door. IMHO Tuck oh yeah heres the "new frame" for the hex. Patina FREE.
Here's a thought (one of several options); Get an original frame, & a subframe from a mopar like a '73+ Satelite or Charger, or Cordoba. It's a torsion bar setup (you'll need the crossmember for the torsion bars too). You can set it up to bolt in the subframe, & set the body back on it to see what you have. You can then change the mounting points (or use spacers) to get the height you want. Then you also have the option of adjusting the torsion bars to change the ride height somewhat. I think it would be very cool to have the mopar torsion bar setup under the Dodge. Of course, any time you change out frames it's time consuming & requires some hoists or several hefty friends. You'll want to completely dissasemble the car, especially the body to make it light as possible. I've done several ground-up restorations; while you're at it you'll want to detail (or at least clean up) the botom of the body & of course the frame. Check out the Starliner in my photo section. http://AngelOnEarth.net/photo.html ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver" Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!
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