Hot Rods Anyone ever cut Versailles brackets off an axle?

I covered the bearing to protect it before starting to cut. I just worked at a steady pace and was careful not to hit the bearing. It worked great and I'll do the second one today. The Dremel lets you get in a tight space with a small cut off wheel. I cut through 99.5% of it and used a small chisel to pop it off.

 

I used 2 cut off wheels with the Dremel. I covered the bearing to protect it and worked at a slow steady pace to get through 99.5% of the bracket and then used a small chisel to pop it off. Worked great.

 

Looks to me like you're trading one problem for another. That appears to be GM's version of the caliper you already have, with the e-brake built into the caliper. This design has been pretty much abandoned by the OEMs for multiple reasons, most now use a 'mini-drum' brake inside the rotor hat for the e-brake function.

 

I don't need or want an E brake.

 

These calipers have mechanisms in them that frequently lock up, badly. I have found them, pre-frozen, in the rebuilt box.

I would not use them, on anything, ever. @Crazy Steve is right, if you want discs, this is the wrong way to go.

I have seen parking pawls fail, and even cars with manual transmissions creep, in gear. That alone, even without the notion that your state requires you to have one, is enough to make most of us say that you should have one.

If you have an accident, and try to make an insurance claim, your policy can be voided when they realize that you have failed to maintain your vehicle's safety equipment. (Yes, that IS in your policy. Go read the whole thing.)

I have built over 200 vehicles, in part, or whole. Every single one of them had a parking brake.

 

If I'm not mistaken, this type rear caliper has to have the e-brake connected because that's what 'adjusts' the brake. Unlike a conventional caliper, these don't automatically adjust with just applying the brake; it's the regular use of the e-brake that adjusts it.

 

You are correct, and that is the mechanism that is prone to locking up.

 

If you really want to go without a parking brake, you should exchange the rear calipers for the same year range front ones.

 

And carry a parking "brick".

 

Second one cut off without issue. If you want to do this using a Dremel then just use the metal cut off wheels. Tungsten bit or diamond one doesn't work as fast as the wheel so don't waste money on them. Time to buy the new bolt on disc brake kit and be on the road.

 

Well I am not dead set against a parking brake it's just that this truck does not have one or any of the hardware to put one back. It's all gone. This truck was raced on straight flat dragstrip and it did not have one. If you have an idea of how to put one back on it I am all ears.

 

I wouldn't use that style caliper in any case, e-brake or no e-brake. Personally, I'd look for a kit that uses the 'mini-drum' style e-brake, if you don't want a e-brake at this time simply leave those parts off. This will give a easy option of adding one later if needed.

 

Salvage yard parts, or Lokar.

 

Just to be clear what caliper are you talking about? The GM Metric ones with an E brake?

I reside in GA and they only require a parking brake on 1966 and newer vehicles. There are no hills in South East GA or Florida for me to park on and need anything other than the "P" in my trans.

 

Tough to use a "parking brick" when rolling down the road with failed brakes. Every car needs an operational e-brake; it's only common sense.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Some states require and E brake to pass inspection.

 

Both metric, and pre-metric GM calipers are prone to this issue.

Your state might not require one, but, as I have mentioned, your insurance company could use the absence against you.

Remember, insurance companies are in business to make money. You don't make money by paying claims.

 

It's difficult to get away from a GM Metric caliper especially when most aftermarket kits use them. If you don't like those then which do you recommend?

Would a drum brake setup be as good or better and easier to set up?

 

I purchased two sets of 9" brakes and two sets of axles from Quick Performance this past year. Couldn't be happier with the product, the price and the service.
Warren

 

Wilwood and no, it's not Wildwood!

 

That's for slapping yourself up side the head for not putting an e-brake on your car, assuming you survive the wreck.

 

Mustang, Explorer.

Drums work too.

 

Again, the flange on the Versailles rear is indexed slightly different from the normal 9 inch housing. This makes it difficult to retro fit some of the kits that are offered for regular 9 inch housings. You can do whatever you want, but keep in mind that it makes it harder to bleed the brakes because the bleeders will not be located at the highest point.

 

I have big car drums on my Versailles housing. I bled the brakes with the backing plates unbolted, and rotated. You can do the same for discs.

 

I just ordered my new rear disc brake kit from Quick Performance. Bought the kit with emergency brake GM metric calipers and a Lokar cable kit. Went with QP due to excellent customer service and always responds via email or Facebook chat even after hours. If I have a question I'll get a timely response.

 

Salesmen are always eager to talk before the sale , good luck with after ...

 

Well atleast this guy answers his own phone and does so after hours. He doesn't defer to some idiot in the Philippines or India to answer phones or wingnuts that are only as smart as their computer screen.

 

How do the 1/2 inch studs fit into the Chevy rim ?

 

With a drill bit : )

 

To the guys that pound rear axle bearings and retainer rings on with a pipe:
The shock applied when pounding steel rings on an axle literally stretches them beyond their elasticity.
Result is an axle that will surely part company with bearing and retainer.
Yes, on a nine inch Ford, with OEM script bearings.
Harbor Freight 12 ton press goes on sale frequently, +/- $100.