Any tricks to grease stubborn front end fittings?!?

I have a ton on my '51 Ford Coupe. Even though there's hardly any miles on my rebuilt front end, some of them I can't get to take grease. Its super annoying.

I saw a kit tonight at a farm supply store that said its not the fittings, there's an obstruction in the joint. The kit had a long thin impact driver type thing that you hit with a hammer on the fitting and force grease into it to clear the obstruction.

I didn't want to spend $50 on it until I was sure it would work and there's not a cheaper way.

Anybody know?

Thanks!

 

Why not just replace the zerk fitting, they are very cheap. When you have it out make sure the bushing hole is lined up with the zerk so that the grease can get between the kingpin and the bushing.

 

What he said, but i want one of the impact deals too.

 

I agree. Make sure the fittings are doing their job. They're a cheap and easy place to start your diagnosis, and may very well be the problem.

 

Jack up the front end enough to take the wieght off the components. Sometimes this helps them take grease.

 

Johnny,

I'm guessing that some elbow grease on the ass-end of that grease gun will solve your problem.

Bwahahahahaha

 

If new fittings don"t solve the problrm take the car to a regular lube busness where they have air pressure behind the gun. On some unmaintained fittings I have had to take a pick and dig out the crude behind the fitting to open up the passage.I picked up a greasegun that hooks up to air compressor,still uses the same tubes as the hand gun and its alot easier.

 

The impact greaser you refer to has been around forever, and they work. Just remember when you get through, what ever had the passage blocked is now probably far enough in there that it's probably going to score something if you don't keep pumping grease till it comes out clean. JMHO

 

we used to put preasure on the grease gun then heat it up. it'll take grease now but be carefull, its hot and comming out everywhere!!

 

Agree on the heat, prior to this would be to pull out the zerk and dig some of the old grease out by hand with a 3/32" drill bit

 

Had some I couldn't get to with the grease gun on my car, so I just bought the "bulk" box of all different angle grease fittings and swapped some of them out. A couple I had to take apart first, then screw them in, then reassemble them. Now I can get to every single one.

 

I had a few on my "new" 57 chevy truck that would not take grease. I did the trick with taking out the zerks and digging the crud out, still no dice. Then I let it sit for a few months while I worked on other stuff...tried again...grease went in (with a lot of force on the grease gun handle). I guess having some fresh, "wet" grease soaking it for a while did the trick?

 

Great advice! also pull em out and clean them with a little piece of wire. re install and grease them up.

 

I've also pulled the zerks and dug the old grease out. Sometimes a good blast of brake parts cleaner helps to loosen things up too, especially on an original front end with petrified grease.

 

I have been working on old Fords from the 30s and 40s for more than 40 years.
This includes old junkers fresh out of long term storage in the woods.
First, take the old Zerk out, use a stiff wire to dig around in the back of the fitting to get hard grease out, then use your grease gun to make sure its working before putting it back on the car.Then use the stiff wire to clean out hard grease from the part on the car. I suppose you could wash the zerk in solvent and even spray penetrant into the hole in the car part but I dont usually have to go that far.
Finally throw the old zerk way and put Genuine NOS American made zerks that you got cheap at the swap meet if your old zerk just will not work or is damaged.
Sometimes its a great idea to use an angled zerk to make it easier to get to the next time..

 

You can get a assortment straight 45 90 degree 10.00 tractor supply assorted cotter pins 5.00 all in a nice manageable case grade 8 bolts wasters nuts sold by the pound. Between new fillings and reliving pressure by jacking will solve the problem barring a bad component .

 

Being a farmer and around this crap all the time with trailer trucks and farm machinery, even when serviced regularly.

1. first, put lots of pressure on it. (that won't work)
2. remove zerk and clean out old packed dirt & grease. (that won't work either)
3. put lots of pressure back on it again. this time heat with torch (this won't work either)
4. heat until red, use the hammer greaser, smack the shit out it. be sure to wear gloves and eye protection
5. fuck it, run the son of a bithch the way it is until it is so galded and sloppy it falls apart.
6. when it is shot, just replace with new parts, problem solved

 

X2's use the hot wrench for everything!

 

The poster that said jack up the vehicle to unload the suspension was on the right track. If you can get the vehicle safely up on stands, have a helper turn the steering wheel back and forth slowly while you try pumping in new grease. The posts about removing the old fittings, scraping out the old grease and using good American zerts was right on too.

 

You can find the impact deals a little cheaper on epay, "zerk zapper" IIRC. I have one I got from the local truck/tractor/auto parts house, had to order it, I think it's a K-D. The do work very well, the impact creates a PSI much higher than the gun

 

We use a porta power and have a good hose made and screw into where the zerk is and pump the porta power.

 

I have seen a coworker using a air powered grease gun.He was holding the rubber grease hose in his hand.Trying to force grease into a frozen fitting.The grease gun hose burst injecting grease right through his skin and into his arm filling it with chassis grease up to his shoulder. He came inches away from having to have his arm amputated.Please use a hand powered gun !

 

Maybe its just me, but I hav'nt had much luck with the impact thingy.

 

I have to agree, but ad:
7. Buy new American made parts and put them in the trunk.
8. Always carry your cell phone with your best friend on speed dial.

 

The impact tools work very well. I repair farm equipment, we find ourselves using them very often. Mainly on dirty items such as plows, discs, chisels, etc.... We have found hitting them with the impact tool filled with diesel works the best to free them up. As far as just replacing the zerk, many times it is the old grease inside that is the problem and grease guns just don't pack the punch.

 

I've always had an issue on my '59 pickup with the driver side king pin not taking grease. Long story short, when I rebuilt my front end last year, I found the king pin bushing not installed correctly. The hole / groove did not line up with the zerk.

 

Like I said in post #2

 

What 35 years of DAYLLY! equipment and truck maintenance has told me….on this subject
(real hard learned facts)

1. It is almost never the fault of the zerk fitting (unless visibly damaged)
2. Unloading and movement are your friend
3. Heat is your friend
4. Impact greasers work
5. Most hand grease guns will make more presser than air powered guns (unless air gun is new & very high quality)
6.It takes many years for grease to get hard.

In most cases with recently maintained / lubed things if it will not take it is some kind of misalignment. Always start by push lube threw the removed zerk (no need to probe it with shit)
Then if you can ….probe the hole.
When I can I use a cordless drill w a bit that fit’s the hole. No hard stuff comes out ? Your probably going to have to take it apart….but try heat first.

 

First, on Fords, you have to make sure ALL of the weight is off of the area where the grease is headed. Now in the event of a Grease zerk not allowing grease to go in, simply replace the zerk itself as they too get gummed up over a time . scrubba

 

Another idea, I bought a few packs of red & blue zerk caps from Mcmaster Carr. It's a few bucks for a pack of 100. As I grease, I install a cap over the zerk. This keeps the crud out and gives a easy visual of which ones I did. Hudsons are loaded with fittings on the chassis and I have yet to hit all the fittings in one round. Next time, I change color...

I have lost a few caps from time to time, but overall I still use them.