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Any rochester 2bl experts

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by oso64, Mar 15, 2013.

  1. oso64
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 510

    oso64
    Member

    Just picked up a 1965 buick skylark with the orig 300 nailhead with the orig rochester 2bl.the carb has been rebuilt, it runs great, no lifter tick, doesnt burn oil ect.the problem i am having is it takes forever to start cold.if i spray starting fluid into the carb it fires right up.seems like to fuel bowl might be draining while parked over night.does anyone have any suggestions on what to check or ideas.thanks in advance, -Jimmy-
     
  2. hoop98
    Joined: Jan 23, 2013
    Posts: 1,362

    hoop98
    Member
    from Texas

  3. 1952customwoody
    Joined: Mar 3, 2011
    Posts: 3

    1952customwoody
    Member
    from Michigian

    Fuel pumps isn't holding prime
     
  4. oso64
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 510

    oso64
    Member

    thats what i was thinking.i bought a new pump.going to install today.i am also going to read through that link too.thanks alot, any other help would be appreciated.-Jimmy-
     

  5. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 8,750

    manyolcars

    everyone ALWAYS blames the carburetor. I say set your points
     
  6. oso64
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 510

    oso64
    Member

    interesting, explain why it would start with an out side prime.if it was flooding i could see a spark issue.not knocking your advise, just wondering why ignition?-Jimmy-
     
  7. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 8,750

    manyolcars

    You did say *starting fluid*-------

    which is A VERY bad idea
     
  8. oso64
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 510

    oso64
    Member

    ok, still looking for good advise and not one liners, thanks for your help anyways.
     
  9. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 8,750

    manyolcars

    If you dont think that is good advice, let me show you some pistons with broken lands

    Yes starting fluid will start a car with a weak spark due to improper setting. Are you new at this?
     
  10. carbking
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 3,423

    carbking
    Member

  11. Joe H
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,281

    Joe H
    Member

    A few things to look at,

    1- does it spray fuel down the bowl when you move the throttle lever?

    2- does the choke work?

    3- does it have full voltage to the coil when cold?

    4- is the battery good, back to low voltage when cold?

    5- hows the points / ignition? poor performance when cold = poor starting cold

    Most any carb should be able to hold enough fuel to start at least once each morning even if the fuel line drains back. Once the needle and seat is above the fuel level, the bowl will not drain 100%. If the fuel wells are draining over night, you should be getting a heavy fuel smell and black smoke each morning. Does it take holding the throttle wide open to start? Thats a sign of flooding, can't imagine starting fluid helping that.

    Joe
     
  12. hoop98
    Joined: Jan 23, 2013
    Posts: 1,362

    hoop98
    Member
    from Texas

    One of the handiest tools I ever had was a spark tester.

    [​IMG]

    If I was out in the lot trying to see why a car wouldn't start I was fooled a bunch of times by weak spark.

    Those testers require enough energy (we use to calibrate our dis leads with a ST-125) to prove you have viable spark to run the car.

    Jut be sure to use the correct one, the ST-125 is for high energy systems, it takes 25KV in dry standard air.

    For non-hei you can use a a plug but clip off the center electrode. At atmoshperic pressure it only takes a couple thousand volts to jump a plug gap, you need to make it jump farther.

    But with so many electrode tip to plug shell variations it is impossible to say what the KV is like you can with a calibrated tester.

    Also, if you are using a homemade tool, make sure the spark is blue, yellow is close points or leaky condenser.

    Hoop
     
  13. 1952customwoody
    Joined: Mar 3, 2011
    Posts: 3

    1952customwoody
    Member
    from Michigian

    I've had 3 sbc do the same changed the fuel pump and they ran better than they ever had. I bet the cars starts runs a sec stalls won't fire couple hits of starting fluids to build up prime and she runs like a top
     
  14. Check the accelerator pump on the carb first.
     
  15. Tomorrow morning, don't start it. Pop the air cleaner and look down the carb and work the throttle. If you got no squirt, either the gas is draining back due to a bad fuel pump or leaking float bowl plugs. If you don't know anything about the fuel pump, replace it, cheap and easy enough.

    Make sure the choke is operational as well. The bad thing about starting fluid is it washes down the cylinder walls and can make the engine kick backwards if it doesn't fire. That action tends to blow the nose cone off the starter.

    Bob
     
  16. stuart in mn
    Joined: Nov 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,229

    stuart in mn
    Member

  17. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 7,877

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    One thing that used to happen to Rochester 2GCs was that if someone got overzealous when tightening down the air cleaner wing nut, it could warp the air horn out of shape, which would prevent the choke plate from closing. When you removed the wing nut and air cleaner to see what was going on, backing off the wing nut would release the strain, the air horn would go back to its normal shape, and the choke plate would seem to be operating correctly when you checked it. I had a '65 Lemans that drove me nuts one winter until I figured this out.
     
  18. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 7,877

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    Also, most of the starting fluid I see on the shelves now has top engine lube in it to prevent the bore washing problems associated with the older stuff.
     
  19. 34toddster
    Joined: Mar 28, 2006
    Posts: 1,482

    34toddster
    Member
    from Missouri

    I don't know if your Buick has a starter with 3 wires, main batt cable, start purple wire and the other smaller wire that if you follow it you'll find it goes to the (+) side of the coil, I assume you have points. This wire gives a full 12 volts to the coil during the start only on the ign switch, I had a car one time that this fixed after a lot of head scratching.
     
  20. WDO40
    Joined: Jul 22, 2007
    Posts: 166

    WDO40
    Member

    The fuel is training back to the tank then takes for ever to get it back to the carb if you take the fuel line close to the tank as possable and make like a p trap in the line it will prevent drain back or loss of prime
     
  21. oso64
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 510

    oso64
    Member

    wow, thanks fellas, got some checking to do.-Jimmy-
     
  22. xhp734
    Joined: Oct 25, 2013
    Posts: 1

    xhp734

    Did you ever nail down the cause of your starting problem?

    I have a similar symptom. Upon closer inspection, I found that about a minute after I shut off the engine my carburetor would leak some fuel out of the throttle body where the shaft ends were visible, only to be immediately vaporized when coming into contact with the (hot!) intake manifold. I don't yet know if this is emptying my float bowl.

    If your problem got solved, I'd like to hear how you did it.
     
  23. oso64
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 510

    oso64
    Member

    actually I did.adjusted the carb, and found that my advance plate on my distributor was sticking, keeping it in full advance.ordered a rebuilt dist from rock auto, installed, timed, full tune up. runs like as champ. -Jimmy-
     

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