Register now to get rid of these ads!

any one ever repair an engine block

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by junkman123, Feb 8, 2013.

  1. junkman123
    Joined: Oct 15, 2008
    Posts: 45

    junkman123
    Member
    from axton,VA

    has any one ever used Moroso a-b epoxy http://www.jegs.com/p/Moroso/Moroso-A-B-Epoxy/747661/10002/-1 to repair and engine block before?
    did it work? i have a block that threw a rod and broke the block between the water and oil jacket near the cam area. you think type of repair will hold?any other suggestions other then replacing the block?
     
  2. Don't take any chances,,find another block. HRP
     
  3. I had a 440 that had a freeze crack along the bottom of the water jacket, abut 5 inches long. I don't recall the brand, but the guy at our local auto parts store sold me some 'ceramic sealant' that was fairly expensive, about 14 bucks for a pint bottle. It works like radiator seal, but its magic, stopped the weeping crack and didn't seem to affect any other parts, the motor ran 2 more summers of street and strip driving. I've seen the tap and brass screw repairs done and seem to work well, but if you're pulling and dismantling the engine anyways then a new block makes more sense, unless its something rare. I've seen blocks that have been heated and then welded as well, seemed to work just fine.
     
  4. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    MarineTex has been used for certain kinds of engine block repairs. It is an epoxy and can even be drilled and tapped.

    Don
     

  5. black 62
    Joined: Jul 12, 2012
    Posts: 1,895

    black 62
    Member
    from arkansas

    lots of products will work in areas that are sot stressed----find a brand you trust and good luck
     
  6. curious.....what is the block?
     
  7. when you have it apart, why not have it baked and have the window welded up. wouldnt be to terribly expensive if it is a non stress area and just has to seal, I would weld it up myself, but I also have a big assed oven.
     
  8. Hotrodbuilderny
    Joined: Mar 20, 2009
    Posts: 1,646

    Hotrodbuilderny
    Member

    ^^^^^^^^^^ What he said. You know you are going to be somewhere away from any help and it's going to let loose.
     
  9. khead47
    Joined: Mar 29, 2010
    Posts: 1,743

    khead47
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I second the Marine Tex suggestion. I repaired a hole aprox. 2"x2" in the block of a 302 marine engine about 20 yrs ago. I did make a stainless plate to cover the hole and spotted it in with dyechem. I know for a fact that the repair lasted at least 10 yrs.
     
  10. fordcragar
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 3,179

    fordcragar
    Member
    from Yakima WA.

    I'd be looking for another block. The idea of trusting a repair that is into the oil and water, doesn't sound good to me, unless you have someone weld it that knows what they are doing.
     
  11. junkman123
    Joined: Oct 15, 2008
    Posts: 45

    junkman123
    Member
    from axton,VA

    thanks for the info,i would replace the block,but every one around these parts of virginia seem to think a 396/402 block is worth $1000,so im trying to see what my other options are
     
  12. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,422

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It was 'water glass'. (actually, powdered egg whites) Works infallably. External cracks respond well to this fix.
     
  13. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,422

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Drop by my house in Atwater, CA. You can have my nice 402 Chevy block for $300.
     
  14. junkman123
    Joined: Oct 15, 2008
    Posts: 45

    junkman123
    Member
    from axton,VA

    your only about 3000 miles away,lol
     
  15. Chevy55
    Joined: Nov 6, 2008
    Posts: 409

    Chevy55
    Member
    from Nebraska

    Keep shopping for another block. I sold a complete 68 325hp 396 a year ago for $400. Even had the air cleaner.
     
  16. txturbo
    Joined: Oct 23, 2009
    Posts: 1,771

    txturbo
    Member

    ship it using Fastenal
     
  17. Dane
    Joined: May 6, 2010
    Posts: 1,351

    Dane
    Member
    from Soquel, CA

    Stay away from the idiots who think they are selling gold. There are millions of those blocks out there that are no different than what came in the Cameros and Chevelles. Look for an old Chevy 3/4 or 1 ton truck from junk yard or being parted out on Craigslist. Keep your radar on and you'll find one at a fair price for sure.
     
  18. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,454

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    It's all according. If you are spending $$$$ on a rebuild, invest in a better block. If you want to patch it and go at minimal cost, give it a whirl. What have you got to lose?
     
  19. For the record the MOROSO A&B is a awesome product no engine builder should ever be out of.

    It would be foolish to try and even make reference to a remedy for damage such as you have without seeing the block up close and first hand. It doesn't sound good though, and I have personally repaired many a broken BBC.

    I agree 100% replace the block, keep looking, even check out e-bay, you be surprised. A 2 bolt main BBC will handle more power than most realize- the main caps and webbing are huge. Try racingjunk as well, best of luck, I probably can dig up a few blocks but we are miles apart as well, TR
     
  20. If your block is a 4 bolt main block, save the main caps and bolts, you can sell them, TR
     
  21. jonnyonedrip
    Joined: Sep 23, 2010
    Posts: 121

    jonnyonedrip
    Member
    from canada

    You can braze or solder the cracks up and do the same to attach a patch over the hole if its none stressed all it has to do is keep the oil/water in if it is a streesed area it can be tig welled with high nickel rod it all depends on how much access you can get you can even weld regular steel to cast with the hight nickel rod I have used it to move starter mounts on engine blocks. You really have nothing to loose if it doesn't work the bock was toast anyway....
     
  22. mastergun1980
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 1,095

    mastergun1980
    Member
    from Alva OK

    Dont take chances on a block. I won't and I am really cheap... but that's knid of the point. You havn't saved a dime if your patch job comes apart 2,000 miles down the road @ 5,000 ( or more ) rpm . You will have to get new everything then.
     
  23. BobMcD
    Joined: Jan 25, 2013
    Posts: 322

    BobMcD
    Member

    What about stepping up to a 454? There are lot of 3/4 and 1 tons trucks with a 454 that you can buy cheap. Pull the motor and sell or scrap the rest . You could wind up with a good motor for a couple of hundred dollars.
     
  24. BOBCRMAN
    Joined: Nov 10, 2005
    Posts: 846

    BOBCRMAN
    Member
    from Holly

    I have been trying to sell a cleaned and magnafluxed, straight bore, two bolt block for $300.00 for years. Nobody around here wants small bore big blocks
     
  25. pdq67
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 787

    pdq67
    Member

    Waterglass = powdered egg whites... NO!!

    Waterglass is the chemical "sodium silicate"!

    BUT they do use it as a coating on fresh eggs to make their shells less permiable to air so that eggs stay fresh longer.

    Oh, and btw, I have a quart of it in my closet. Plus, I have sealed two engines with it through the years so know that it works.

    You need to drain and flush the complete cooling system 100 percent clean. Then add a quart of waterglass and then fill her full of clean water. Then put a big wide piece of cardboard in front of the rad. and then go drive her until she get's good and hot!! NOT Old Faithful hot, but hot...

    Let her cool off over night, then remove the cardboard and take her for a test drive to check for either bubbles in the rad. or leaks out side.

    If none appear, flush her clean and add your normal coolant water/anti-freeze ratio in her and go..

    The cooling system has to be CLEAN because waterglass will react with anti-freeze and make a big-time MESS!!

    Been there and used waterglass.. You should be able to buy it at a Drug Store...

    pdq67
     
  26. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 4,073

    indyjps
    Member

    Find a 454 2 bolt block and use your rotating asst with new pistons for a 427
     
  27. junkman123
    Joined: Oct 15, 2008
    Posts: 45

    junkman123
    Member
    from axton,VA

    :mad: it must be location...because anything here in southwest Virginia that's big block chevy people think $$$$ even the boat anchor 366 truck motors are priced ridiculous around here($800-$1000 needing a rebuild) and god forbid it have a 1960's date code.they really lose there mind then.the price gougers all seem to congregate at the Charlotte auto fair in NC every year also,asking triple or more for what its worth.sometimes i wish i lived out west where i see so many great priced items that just are not cost effective to ship :confused:

    thanks for all the help,ill keep my eyes open for another block,its not a racing engine,just going to be a nice sounding street motor to cruise around.
     
  28. Hotrodbuilderny
    Joined: Mar 20, 2009
    Posts: 1,646

    Hotrodbuilderny
    Member

  29. gashog
    Joined: Dec 9, 2005
    Posts: 978

    gashog
    Member

    You pay your money and take your chances with block repairs. I fixed a 427 435 horse block with JB weld that has held up fine for 15 years now.

    She leaked oil like a bitch out of the back of the block when I prelubed her before the initial fire. Turned out there was a casting flaw (hole) on the top of the inner rear main bolt boss. Inside the casting flaw, was a second hole into the oil galley from the oil pump to the oil filter. The hole was a small rectangle, approximately 1/16” tall by 3/16” wide, that appeared to have been cut when my engine builder chased the treads of the boss. Of course the shop wasn’t about to help me.

    The last thing I wanted to do was pull the motor out of the Vette and and tear it down to press a tube in the galley. I already had the tranny off and had had good lick with JB weld in the past so I decided the worst that could happen was ruin another clutch disc. I roughed up the area around the rectangular hold with a Dremel, cleaned it with lacquer thinner, clean it again and when I thought I was done I cleaned it again. I applied a nice thin layer of JB weld over the area and cured it with a heat lamp. Next day roughed and cleaned the area around the casting flaw on the boss, used a hypodermic to fill the bottom of the boss with JB weld, applied a nice thin layer of JB weld over the flaw and cured it with a heat lamp.

    If I ever tear the block down I’ll fix it right, but she’s been running like a champ ever since.
     

    Attached Files:

  30. jesse1980
    Joined: Aug 25, 2010
    Posts: 1,355

    jesse1980
    Member

    I would just get a new block unless its a rare or expensive block.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.