Technical Any body actually doing any fab work?

I'm not sure this type of fabrication work is what you are looking for? But here is my effort to make some backing plate vents for my RPU. Simple way to use stainless steel screen. I also rotated the backing plate 180 degrees to place the wheel cylinder on the bottom, keeping the brake hose low and less visible. Because I'm fond of $$ screen I also used them on my air cleaner and hood sides.

 

Since Bonneville is about to start, how about a car I built 10 years ago, first with blown Flathead, then Blown Ardun, currently holds the record for the class.

 

@Marty Strode I've got ask, how does the drive shaft work?

I thought at first it was solid suspension with a solid mount drive shaft BUT then I see the coil overs and bars.... SO I take it it's direct drive off of a clutch set-up with CV joints on each end of the driveshaft like a VW ?

Very nice work as usual!!

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It has long swing arm, with the engine, trans, and rear axle are coupled together. That allows suspension, with the weight of the engine as far back as possible. It has an air shifted Jerico trans. View attachment 6144415

 

@Marty Strode Got ya !! Old go-kart style rear suspension!!

That's a slick set up!

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I did this recently and took pictures. Bought the dash from HAMBer @John Tumolo

I've done other stuff since then but haven't really taken pictures.... welding metal tabs, paint suspension components...

 

Beautiful work!!! Flipping backing plates brilliant!
Can you post details on the screen and supplier?
Thanks

 

I purchased the stainless steel screen from McMaster-Carr, lots of choices. They sell small pieces, so it’s not necessary to buy a large amount.
When flipping the backing plates, which places the wheel cylinder on the bottom. Make sure to install the bleeder valve above the the cylinder or you will not be able to remove the all air bubbles.

 

@el Scotto nice work! I went alittle extreme on the dash in my model A.

38' ford dash, the gauge's will be behind a piece of glass. This is the before and after pics, now ready for final sand and paint !

 

Firewall: The coupster didn't have one when I bought it 44 years ago. Didn't know any better. Went to the local steel supply and bought a 4'x8' sheet of 16ga. hot rolled. (Still have 1/2 a sheet.) Hammer formed in 2 pieces. Used 1/4 round fence rail for the large radius of the recess. (A couple of girls in one of my classes did a significant part of the work.) Now touching up a few things. Curved the top of the recess to match the cowl instead of straight across. Raising the steering column for better foot room when using the brakes. Need to re-radius a couple of spots where the firewall meets the cowl.





Windshield frame and posts: Windshield frame made from 1/2" square tubing and strips if 18ga. cold rolled around a plywood form re-enforced with 2x4's. Plug welded the 18ga. to the tubing. Bottom and sides, nothing shows. On the top I filled the seam between the 18ga. and the tube with brass. In hind sight solder would have used a lot less heat and therefor a lot less straightening. The pieces sticking down on the sides are the mounts, made from 3/16"x1" strap. There are 2 nuts welded on each side and they are bolted behind the dash.


The inside of the posts are a channel to hide the mounting straps. The top piece of the frame has a tab at each end for a 1/4x20 button head bolt that will screw into the all thread connector welded at the top of the channel.

(Disregard the optical illusion of the skewed posts.) The outside of the posts have a small taper. The back edges line up with the front edge of the door. The stance of the car made them look like obelisks. So I had to lean them back 3/8 of an inch to give the illusion that the back edges were straight with the front edge of the door and the front edge was tapered. I rolled the top 1/16" or so of the 18ga. in slightly toward the glass to give things a more finished look, then backfilled the void with JB Weld so the front of the glass would have a flat surface to rest against.

 

Currently fabricating lower box panels.

 

@X-cpe like the way you built windshield frame !! I remember the days of being young and having the drive to do anything ! No matter what the task. Now I get sometimes where I hate fighting problems instead of seeing them as challenges anymore...

@TwistedMetal nice metal work, how did you form the corners ?

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Still fighting this fight.



Progress is slow, but it is happening.

 

well-you're WINNING the fight!

 

Metal may have memory but I have force, and power tools.

 

@gimpyshotrods nice work ! Did you also add the bulge to the hood or alter it ? Is there accents going into the radiused holes also ? Or will they stay open as they are now ?

 

That is the factory body shape in the hood, for 1960.

The holes will get stainless mesh mounted from below. I am fussing over the hole size. I had he excuse of not having he panel alignment done, but I need to get a move on.

I will experiment with doming the mesh a little, for style.

If I can work it out I will see if I can get some press dies 3D printed to make all of the domes on a single piece, one per side.