Anti-bag 49-52 Chevy thread

^^^^^^ That thing sits perfect @droplord49 !!!! ^^^^^^^

 

How Big Of Block Did You Use? I Know This Is Way Old Post But Just Found It ...

 

Very helpful thread. Ill be dropping mine here shortly after I get it to start and run this week. Traded my model A project for this.

 

Cut coils and blocks on my 50. I may step the control arms as well.

 

what do you guys mean by step the control arms??

 

Here's mine. Leaf pack dearched 2 inches with 1" blocks in the rear. Stock front suspension. Planning on dropped uprights for the front. Does anyone know if it will sit nose heavy with this combo. I'd like it to be level or with a slight rake to the rear

 

Very nice. Sets perfectly. Slight forward rake is the look. Airbags...Jesus...

 

You are looking for "uprights". What are they? Bruce

 

Spindles may be the correct term I think. I call them uprights because the spindle actually mounts to them but I guess drop spindles is the proper term

 

no, uprights is the proper term.

 

This thread is great! I have 3" lowering blocks in the rear and ordered some shorter springs up front rather than cutting the originals. Blocks from Jamco, springs from Western Chassis.

First shot is before and after

 

I put 3" blocks in the back on saggy springs. I need to cut the bump stops because it sits right on them without a load in the car.

Before:



After:



Planning to drop the front 3" and the rear another inch. Then all should be well!

Sent from a Glade Air Freshener

 

Question for all you guys with the front wheel even with the wheel opening lip...did it affect your turning radius at all? I want my front lowered to where it's down to the top of the wheel, but I don't wanna have to make a 23 point turn to turn 180°. I'm using factory '51 wheels with 215/70 tires

 

Ride report: since lowering (see above) my rear was sitting on the bump stops. I cut those in half and that helped, but the ride was still rough in the rear. Then I replaced the ancient rear shocks with standard stock replacement shocks. What a difference! Much better ride quality. If you lower, always cut the bump stops and replace shocks.

 

I need to do that on my 53. Soon.....

Sent from a Glade Air Freshener

 

@Stefan S not to bad with taller skinny bias ply tires. The radials bulge out more in the sidewall and definitely rub more on my car.

 

That's what I was afraid of. Thanks for the reply

 

Thread Title:
ANTI-BAG 49-52 CHEVY THREAD​

I think someone should start a thread to explain the difference between 49-52 Chevys and 53-54 Chevys.

 

Anybody running an enclosed driveline? What's the lowest the car can be lowered with one? I'm thinking of forgetting the 5 speed, going with a factory 3 speed and lowering the rear so that the axle top would be touching the frame (of course I'll be notching it so it won't actually touch the frame). I've read 4" is pretty much the maximum drop you'd want to run but, I can't imagine nobody's gone lower

 

People have gone lower, but generally not with the torque tube. 4" would be the absolute maximum, and to pull that off you'd pretty much have to remove the bump-stops. I did a 3" drop on mine, and had to shave them down so it didn't ride like a shopping cart.

Sent from a Glade Air Freshener

 

Here's mine. MII front suspension, 2" drop spindles with 1 coil cut, 3" blocks on back with Chassis Engineering leaf spring kit & Chevy 10-bolt. Currently running 6.70-15 tires (about 28" tall). Will be upgrading to wide-white radials soon.

IMG_5709 by krbarnes posted Jan 6, 2017 at 10:40 AM

 

Nice Sedan...What Color Green Is That? Do You Have The Paint Code To It? Lov It

 

Whats The Specs On Your Drop?

 

I have a question for the group. I have to admit to having a Mustang II front-end with 2" drop spindles, and would like to get the car lower. I have already cut 1 coil off the front springs.
Everything I have read says that at 'ride height', the lower control arms should be parallel to the ground.
With a specific tire/wheel combination, distance A will always be constant, giving a particular ride height (distance B )

Front-normal by krbarnes posted May 15, 2017 at 12:23 PM

To lower the car any further, I would need to shorten the springs (distance C ). But in doing that, it would also cause the lower control arms to 'angle-up' toward the outside of the car, no longer parallel to the ground (make sense?)

Front-lower by krbarnes posted May 15, 2017 at 12:23 PM

Just wondering if this is a problem, since it seems to go against everything I've read about these front ends.
Any advice, critique, criticism welcomed.
(here's a picture of my car as it sits now)

IMG_5980 by krbarnes posted Mar 14, 2017 at 10:00 AM

 

Here's my 50 Chevy Sport Coupe:
Dropped uprights up front: Low rear springs with blocks and air shocks at back

Phil from SCOTLAND

 

Hey Pete -


This is an old post with an ongoing thread. I'm at this stage in my 53 Belair hardtop build. The body is off the chassis and I'm working on the rear suspension now. I bought 4" lowered leaf springs and 3" block kit. Installed it and I'm still not convinced it's low enough. Maybe it's just me not seeing it realistically low because the body is not bolted up to weigh it down. What I want to know is how did you come up with these dimensions to relocate these leaf spring mounting brackets?? I can't figure this out. I have a "Chevrolet Passenger Car Shop Manual" I got at Pomona Swap and it shows dimensions of the leaf spring shackles front and back holes center-to-center 49-1/4". Without knowing where a flat spot is this frame parallel to the ground, I am having a hard time finding where to relocate.

 

Quick update if anyone's interested. Chevy back on the road after new flywheel and ring gear. Plus new clutch
I love customs but, as I don't have the bodywork skills, have gone the lowrider bomb route. I think I like them equally.
Still got a '49 accessory hood ornament to go on, I'll try and light up?

Phil from SCOTLAND

 

TTT

 

Anybody ever move their leaf spring mounts in to the side of the frame and up? I have stock springs that are sagged about 3", 3" blocks and my perches are about an inch taller than stock height. I'm about an inch and a half past my scrub line so I'd like to lose the blocks without raising the rear