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Technical Another t5 swap question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Randy740, Mar 17, 2022.

  1. Randy740
    Joined: Mar 17, 2022
    Posts: 2

    Randy740

    Long time lurker, first time poster. Apologize in advance if this is in the wrong area. Before I get beat up, I’ll tell a bit about myself/car, definitely post some pics, and then follow up with my question.
    42 yr old car nut from Ohio, built a few motors, but nothing drastic, usually from necessity not so much for pleasure. Chevy guy at heart, but will own about anything. My current and first real project is a ‘50 styleline 216/3 speed, 4 door. Other then some bondo on the rear quarters and below the trunk lid, it’s a solid car. I acquired the car this past aug/sep and have since done a 50$ paint job (in my yard,lol), scraped out the nasty carpet and padding on the floor, installed sound mat, got a ‘63 283 that I had punched out +.060, stock crank, 305HO heads with 1.84 valves, pretty mild comp cam valve train, etc.. I just finished up a painless chassis wiring kit this week and have started assembling the 283.. Rear end/driveshaft I’m not worried about, that’s an easy fix. However, I’m wanting to mate this 283 with the t5, now my question is.. what do I need for clutch pedal/etc? I’ve searched multiple forums/YouTube, etc and haven’t really found what I’m looking for. Will the stock clutch pedal work with a certain linkage system, how about slave cylinder? I’d like to keep the factory pedals, but not necessary. Monies is definitely an issue, and the idea of swapping pedals doesn’t sound cheap, lol.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. When I installed the T-5 in our '54 Ford Ranch Wagon I used the original clutch pedal but modified it to be able to use a few Mustang clutch parts & cable, I didn't want to fool around with clutch linkage or slave cylinders.

    I posted a step by step on the '52-'59 Ford Social Group, you can access the information on the clickable link below.HRP

    Click here
     
    brigrat likes this.
  3. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,576

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa


  4. I would totally go with a slave cylinder
     
  5. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,699

    BJR
    Member

    Welcome Nice to see another old car saved. But I gotta say that gauge cluster just doesn't fit a 50's car. It just looks wrong. Not that you asked or care what I think. :D
     
    WalkerMD likes this.
  6. nickleone
    Joined: Jun 14, 2007
    Posts: 463

    nickleone
    Member

  7. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,211

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not a whole lot of the stock stuff is going to work.

    Most who want to go to a V8 and a stick, will swap to hanging pedals. That either takes a whole lot of "junkyard research" or the purchase of a kit.

    https://waltonfab.com/product/firewall-power-brake-clutch-pedal-assembly/

    Walton makes really nice stuff, and has most everything you would need to do this.
     
  8. Pat
    Joined: Jan 6, 2002
    Posts: 186

    Pat
    Member
    from Felton Ca.

    I’m a fan of the hydraulic TO bearing. Just a line running up to the clutch master. I’m running a Howe. McLeod makes one also. Clutch masters by wilwood and afco are small and pretty easy to adapt to a stock pedal assembly’s
     
    Tman likes this.
  9. Not at all, the 49 to 54 Chevies are pretty easy to modify the stock pedals to work with a slave cylinder or hydraulic TO bearing. The biggest issue with a V8 swap is exhaust clearance on the drivers side
     
  10. 24riverview
    Joined: Jan 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,051

    24riverview
    Member

    Take this for what it's worth as I've never done a 49-54 Chevy but I have basically stock (39) clutch linkage in my 39 Chevy coupe with a 350/4-speed combo and yours is a similar setup. Use the original clutch fork, it does work in a V8 bellhousing, you may find that all you need is a different link. I've been using a chain as the link for 42 years. Maybe someone who has actually done this swap will chime in as to why this won't work but I thought I'd mention it.
    6-104.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2022
    WalkerMD likes this.
  11. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,211

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have tried several, and no customer wanted to pay for the time to make the parts and the exhaust to go around them.

    The parts from Walton proved to be cheaper in the long run. You just put them in, and run a GM bellhousing with a slave ear on it. That's a junkyard part.
     
  12. I HATE firewall mounted MCs unless they are one of these

    [​IMG]
     
  13. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,211

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That's fine.

    Only two in 200 of my customers ever requested that it be left there. Interestingly enough they were both Plymouths.
     

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