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Projects Another Deuce Rdstr project.

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Baron, Feb 5, 2019.

  1. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,289

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Shifter location is very important to me. I like my hand to drop off the wheel and fall right on the shifter. And I don't like having to pull yourself off the seat back to get into 3rd gear. I modified a stock Hurst mount by cutting the top half off and moving the shifter mount forward 1 inch, and shortening the rods the same amount to give the stick just enough to clear the seat. Made a small cutout in the cross sill for shifter clearance. Sitting in the seat, everything feels comfortable, like an old pair of shoes.
    Shifter mount modification 2.jpg Shifter and seat 2.jpg Shifter cut out 1.jpg Shifter cut out 2.jpg Shifter cut out 3.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2019
  2. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 1,514

    1-SHOT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Good work
     
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  3. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,289

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Finding this Duvall windshield in the for sale section of the HAMB back in Dec, 2015 has certainly kept me busy over the past 3 yrs. Funny how buying one single part can totally change direction. I have two other "project cars" that I was ready to start on, one right after the other. And just like that, they get pushed back, still sitting and waiting for their turn. I sold my last Deuce Rdstr 31 years ago. I wanted one more to take into retirement with me. This is it.
    Dec 2015
    Duvall windshield 2.jpg
    Dec 2018
    20181214_123000 x.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2019
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  4. This build is great. I am 71 and have been retired for a couple of years. I bought a 32 Ford roadster in 79'.
    It had been a channeled car in the 50's. The thing I like about this thread is that you have been doing this for years and have far more mechanical skills than I possess, but most of the choices you have made on your build are the same as mine. I am going with a 327, 4 speed Muncie and 9" Ford rear and 56 Ford F100 front brakes. I am on a far tighter budget than you but you are confirming my thoughts on how I want the car to look and drive.
     
  5. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,289

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Looking at the car from the back, I didn't like the opening between the rear wheelhouse and inner sub rail. Looked unfinished. Being an open-wheeled car, this is in plain view. So I made a couple of filler panels and welded the inner and outers together. While doing this I also made the lower wheelhouse follow the frame kick up a little closer. One more small detail only a few will notice.

    Rear inner fender panel to chassis 1.jpg Rear inner fender panel to chassis 2.jpg Rear inner fender panel to chassis 3.jpg Rear inner fender panel to chassis 4.jpg
     
  6. Shamus
    Joined: Jul 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,060

    Shamus
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NC

    Lookin' good!
     
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  7. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,575

    gonzo
    Member

    Great looking build. Can't wait to see it on the road.
     
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  8. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,289

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Bent up the rest of the exhaust and made the brackets/hangers this past weekend. I've never used these Porter Steel Pack mufflers on any of my cars, but after listening to a number of YouTube videos, decided to give them a try. What ever they sound like, I'm pretty sure it will be a lot quieter than the exhaust on my Corvette. :) 20190223_150150.jpg Exhaust 3 rs x.jpg 20190222_134422.jpg 20190223_150944.jpg
     
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  9. Stooge
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 300

    Stooge
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Moving right along with progress! I have a pair of Porters on an off topic c10 and i'll be using one for my coupe, they make a great sound
     
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  10. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,289

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Here are a couple pics of the mounts I made to move the wishbone mounts inboard. You can see in the last two pictures how much more turning radius it will have on left turns, plus the wishbones look better(and will work better) mounted this way. Tie rod bungs came from HAMB member CTaulbert ( very well made), and complete the job.
    Deuce Chassis 2 2 19  p.jpg Deuce Chassis 2 2 19  o.jpg Deuce drag link interferance a x.jpg Deuce drag link interferance b.jpg
     
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  11. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,289

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Inspiration shot from last year.
    32 Roadster sepia xh.jpg
     
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  12. @Baron, I’d love to see a shot of the wishbone mounts from below, too, showing how you attach them. Looks like a good solution.
     
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  13. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,289

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not great pics, but these show how I boxed them front and rear to the boxing plates and tied them into the center cross-member for a little extra support. Deuce Chassis 2 2 19  h.jpg 20190223_150955.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2019
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  14. cederholm
    Joined: May 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,539

    cederholm
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Amazing build - loving this!

    I have Porters on my 235 Chevy and plan to use them on my Coupe.

    ~ Carl
     
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  15. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,289

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Here are some pictures of the inner trunk pan I made for the raised floor. Knowing I was going to swap out the 32 rear cross-member for the Model A, I knew what little space there was to run the tailpipes was going to be even less. So, I made these two 3 1/2"cutouts in the rear trunk pan (where the floor kicks back up) and welded those to the body to make room for the tail pipes to go over the Model A cross-member. I still need to weld a couple of stainless tips on the pipes to extend them down just enough to angle cut them so they just peek out in front of the rear spreader bar. 20171028_150622 xm.jpg Rear pan cutouts for exhaust.jpg 20190223_145850 xh.jpg
     
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  16. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 12,035

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Baron
    I really like that shot, especially those front wheels turned like that, at first I thought it was a well done painting.
    That's some nice work, I like your approach to the retrofit and gusseting.
    I machined my own weldments for the tapered rod end pivots on my hairpins but sunk them into the frame rails.
     
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  17. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,289

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    20190302_184058.jpg 20190302_184030.jpg 20190302_184034.jpg All caught up. Things won't be going as fast from here on in now that I'll be posting . Yesterday I ran all the brake lines and installed the 3/8" fuel line. Now I can remove all those and get back on prepping the chassis for paint.
     
  18. Darkhorse
    Joined: Jun 26, 2007
    Posts: 55

    Darkhorse
    Member

    Baron-
    Your car looks awesome! Great work.
    Just a question, on your brakes, why are you running a proportioning valve? I have always run a 1968 Mustang master cylinder with front and rear drum which eliminates the whole valve and keeps everything is much cleaner. I believe 1/4" to the front and 3/16" to the rear right out of the master cylinder.
    Just a thought. Keep up the good work!
    Chris-
     
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  19. @Baron thanks for the pictures, exactly what I wanted to see. Looks very stout and provides that extra turning radius you were looking for. Nicely done!
     
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  20. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,289

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks Chris. I'm sure your right. I have found over the years that better to install one, adjust it once then to find out you need one and have to install one later on. Just changing tire sizes can make a difference on brake bias and this gives me a little adjustability.

    Thank you.
     
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  21. dylan60
    Joined: Jun 28, 2010
    Posts: 338

    dylan60
    Member
    from ny

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  22. This is one really nice build - love the thought processing that went into it. Looking forward to the finished project .... I also agree that this roadster is just killer!
     
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  23. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,289

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Almost ready to hit it with some epoxy primer. Little more sanding and it will be ready to go.
    20190309_121038.jpg 20190309_120810.jpg IMG_20190309_224047_877.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2019
  24. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,289

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Took this picture almost exactly 2 years ago. Fitting the hood a grille shell to the body and locating the headlight bar/headlights. Rdstr 3 24 17 bw.jpg
     
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  25. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,289

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    One of the last pictures of the body on the chassis. Next time it goes on will be for good.
    Rdstr 9 28 18 a.jpg
     
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  26. sodas38
    Joined: Sep 17, 2004
    Posts: 2,206

    sodas38
    Member

    B-E-A-utiful!! Love the direction of your project and great work.
     
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  27. Baron
    Joined: Aug 13, 2004
    Posts: 3,289

    Baron
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Usually I put 40 Ford dashes in my 32 Fords, but I really like the look of the Kenecht Equip Co dash panel. Extremely well made and the gauges are beautiful. Good chance this will be the last Deuce Rdstr I build for myself , so I figured no sense cutting corners at this stage of the game. :)
    20181014_110316.jpg
     
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  28. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 2,560

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    Good choice, that is a beautiful dash!
     
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  29. Straight Axle Guy
    Joined: Oct 21, 2018
    Posts: 28

    Straight Axle Guy
    Member

    Nice looking dash and rod! it's all in the details. nice work.
     
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  30. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 5,863

    krylon32
    Alliance Vendor
    from Nebraska

    A winner. I've done a lot of deuce roadsters but never one quite your style. I like it.
     
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