Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical another desoto hemi transmission removal question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by drptop70ss, Jan 15, 2021.

  1. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,201

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Hi guys! Just picked up a 1955 Desoto 291 hemi with factory 4bbl and the powerflite transmission. It is a good runner so plans are to put it in my 1937 Desoto coupe with a 700r4 transmission. I need to get the powerflite off and have read a bunch of posts but still have some questions, I have someone who wants the transmission and I dont want to damage anything taking it off.
    - can the transmission be unbolted from the bellhousing and slid back by removing the larger bolts that bolt it to the bell? Any hidden bolts or straight forward removal?
    - I have read that the converter has to come off before the bell in order to get to the two hidden bellhousing bolts. Does this mean if I unbolt the converter from the crank flange the converter drops out of the bottom of the bellhousing? Then bellhousing is the last part removed?
    Thanks for any help, first time taking one of these apart.
     
  2. gatz
    Joined: Jun 2, 2011
    Posts: 1,823

    gatz
    Member

    MOTORS Auto Repair Manual 1956 has a section on Powerflite transmissions;
    scans from page 317, and 318
    Although this is to be taken as a general guide, there's no mention of hidden bolts

    Someone may have more info regarding the Powerflite being mounted to the DeSoto Hemi.

    Powerflite Removal MOTORS Repair 1956_1.jpg
    Powerflite Removal MOTORS Repair 1956_2.jpg
     
    loudbang likes this.
  3. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,201

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Thank you! Looks like I was on the right track as far as removal. I think the hidden bolts are inside the bellhousing and cannot be accessed until the torque converter is out. At least I think so!
     
  4. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,944

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A couple of long bolts to replace a couple of the lower bellhousing bolts are your buddy here as it says in item 16. That works good for going either way with any automatic trans though.
     

  5. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    @drptop70ss .......You ‘could’ just unbolt the bell housing perimeter bolts and remove the bell housing and main case while still attached together. That would leave the torque converter still attached to the crankshaft flange. And the 1” thick ‘adapter’ plate between the torque converter and the block.

    What I would recommend is to remove the four bolts holding the trans case to the bell housing and separate the trans from the bell housing just to have more manageable parts to handle. Then remove the bell housing to block plate bolts and remove the bell. kinda six of one, half a dozen of the other.

    To remove the torque converter from the crank, you will have to remove the nuts from the torque converter studs that protrude through the crank flange. A long handle open end wrench works best for that. There are eight nuts/studs.

    That leaves the aluminum ‘adapter plate’. You will see the remaining bolts that hold it to the block. The two so-called ‘hidden’ bolts are to the outside edge about level with the bottom of the block. I can’t recall with certainty, but there may be a bolt on one or both sides that enter through the block flange from the front side and thread into the plate. That is true on manual shift bells but they do not use the ‘adapter plate’.

    The 291 with the 4 barrel carb are not as common as the 2 bbl version and is a nice find.

    Ray
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2021
    loudbang likes this.
  6. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,201

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Thank you Ray, so I can take off the bell, I wasnt sure about that part. Appreciate the info! Engine has some goodies as well, nice valve covers and sanderson center dump headers that I am hoping to use. Love the yellow wires LOL. 034.jpg
     
  7. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 6,953

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Sounds like a great score! Any markings (manufacturer) on the valve covers? (They have to be a plus.) Those yellow plug wires were big in the seventies; I usually used to see them on Mopar's along with a big yellow Accel coil.:D
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  8. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,201

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Lol it has the yellow accel coil as well. No markings on the outside of the valve covers, maybe underneath. I have the stock covers as well, may end up running them just because they have desoto stamped on the wire covers.
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  9. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,201

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Looks like a one piece bellhousing, so the printed instructions above must be for a different design, so Hnstray's info will be the way to go. IMG_2671.jpg IMG_2672.jpg
     
    Hnstray and Desoto291Hemi like this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.