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Projects Another 54 belair build

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by scott_crawford, May 26, 2015.

  1. So I guess I've been posting in the wrong spot and nobody gets to see haha I'll kinda work a little backwards and show you where we are as of yesterday and go from there. This is my first oldie to build, my background with cars is mainly offroad suspensions and roll cages.
  2. Heres where yesterday started, I got off early to come home and work on the beast

    Attached Files:

    50 customcoupe likes this.
  3. Gave her a haircut and put the lid back on

    Attached Files:

    50 customcoupe and RockinRivi like this.
  4. Rynos63
    Joined: Jul 18, 2009
    Posts: 70


    Looks good...

  5. cain
    Joined: Nov 28, 2006
    Posts: 153

    from riverside

    Jimenez Bros Customs

    Attached Files:

    RockinRivi likes this.
  6. Got the passenger side B pillar tacked in. Gotta give you guys credit that was not easy to line up
  7. Here we go

    Attached Files:

    50 customcoupe likes this.
  8. Canada Jeff
    Joined: Jan 9, 2003
    Posts: 292

    Canada Jeff

    If it was easy everybody would be doing it.

    What's the plan for the rear window?
  9. 51 Shoebox rear window
  10. RockinRivi
    Joined: Feb 12, 2013
    Posts: 71


    Sub'd…looking sharp

  11. Looking good so far.
  12. So upon piecing things back together and doing the ol' weld, grind, weld I find myself trying to make everything perfect and get every stubborn pin hole and I eventually get so thin from grinding it blows out. Any advice from thin metal welders? My background is more of a rollcage thick metal weld and grind. I might have a little bit of a heavy hand, but I'm deffinetly trying to be light.
  13. layedout49
    Joined: Jan 15, 2008
    Posts: 483


    Def sounds like a heavy hand . Try welding with less heat and more wire speed. If you get tiny holes or start blowing through , let it cool down and the zap the trigger two or three times and a lil bit on the trigger. Zapping it (kinda like flicking) creates a lil welding ball that helps you filll

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
  14. Same thing has been happening to me. Good tip. I'll try that next time.
  15. Thanks for the tip. What are you guys using for grinding joints? Ive always used a flap disk but I'm hearing there might be other better father ways
  16. morac41
    Joined: Jul 23, 2011
    Posts: 532


    Hi Heres a tip ...get your self a chunk of brass or copper about 1" in diameter ..long enough so you can hold it behind where you have blown through the metal ..... the weld wire wont stick to it and its easy to fill the holes or where you have to chase an edge where the metal is a bit thin...I use .6 wire on body steel and theres not much to clean up.... I use a 60g flapper disk.......
  17. layedout49
    Joined: Jan 15, 2008
    Posts: 483


    I use .023 wire . Don't use a flap disk for sheetmetal . I use a hard stone to get the weld down ton where it's almost even with the surface then go over with a 50 or 80 gt roloc . DA it with 80 if you wanna get extra smooth

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  18. mrconcdid
    Joined: Aug 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,157

    from Florida

    I love these cars.
    Looking good
  19. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,978


    While MIG welding is quick, the weld bead is very hard and difficult to hammer flat or grind. The "old guys" who did body work used a soft, low-temperature rod and a practiced gas welding technique. The really good bodymen made their own rod by shaving 1/16" strips from scrap auto body panels which is the same hardness as the surrounding metal.

    You can combine these two methods by tacking your work into place with a MIG, then close the gaps with gas welding, hammering the bead as you go. Does it take practice? Hell, yeah, but you get nice welds that are easy to dress. And, you can/should hammer and dolly the panel into the desired shape as you go since it'll be warm from the welding and thus easier to move around.

    Here's an appropriate page from a forum you might find interesting to your needs:
    Last edited: May 30, 2015
  20. Thanks guys, diggin all the tips. I gotta hurry up and get off work so I can get home and keep patching in.
  21. I'm gonna have to do some research on this, it sounds awesome. I would really like to use a lead filler on my areas needing them instead if a bondo type filler also.
  22. Started playing with the back window last night. Not sure I like the shoebox rear glass as an option. I would like something not as tall and bubbly. The flow on the sides are kinda bothering me. Any opinions?

    Attached Files:

  23. twenty gallons
    Joined: Jun 7, 2010
    Posts: 443

    twenty gallons

    lower that window down to the beltline and see what it looks like.
  24. I tried that and the roundness of the frame is to much for the shape. I found a 49-52 Chevy rear that I think will work way better.
  25. Heres the 49-52 Chevy glass I like the flow so much better

    Attached Files:

  26. twenty gallons
    Joined: Jun 7, 2010
    Posts: 443

    twenty gallons

    securedownload-1.jpeg This is what I did to my daughters 53 a couple years ago, worst part of it was hand hammering the transition from the beltline to the new under window beltline, right there at the bottom of the rear window and then making little corner pieces to round the top corner of the opening, Stock rear window. we did make little turn downs for the rain gutter also.

    IMAG0177.jpg Screenshot_2014-01-04-19-49-33.png
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2015
  27. That turned out awesome! Looks really clean
  28. Anybody have any other ways to make the back window corners.. Im limited on tools, so I tried to do it old school and hammer them out, but I'm not thrilled how they came out.

    Attached Files:

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