I buy .041 sheet copper at my local metal suply. (Allan Steel). I assume it was rolled to that thickness at the foundry. I was told this is how to make gaskets years ago and that's what I have done when I couldn't buy what I wanted. Worked on the '32 Plymouth OHV conversion and I expect it to work on the 26 Dodge Bros. OHV conversion. Also worked on the 455 Pontiac that went 208 in my Vega. That engine had blown lots and lots of over the counter head gaskets. Never blew a solid copper part.
Rich, you're really making a believer out of me. Obviously, both surfaces need to be trued up before the mating happens with the gasket, right? I know you subject your machines to performance challenges, so that says something right there, building on what you've said before. Last question: What compression ranges do you run on the egines you expect to "challenge" the most?
I have cut gaskets myself for old flathead cycles, etc. but never knew about the annealing process, I guess I was just lucky.
I am waiting for a reply back from our local University and metal company (Novelis, originally Alcan) as I have been advised both have an oven capable of reaching in excess of 1,000 F, however; as we all know 800-900 F is all I require. If either are in a position to assist, I will be annealing the copper head gasket. I am nervous of using a torch and have discussed this issue with a few engine builders who advise the torch method will work, however; this would only be after all else has failed ! Driving 2,200 miles (one way) to Bonneville, is worth taking the extra step, ensuring the gasket is annealed in a proper manner. However; I will not be using the "Flat O-Ring", instead, using the traditional O-Ring with receiver.
You guys need to speak with SCE - you know, the guys that make copper head gaskets for a living and not the 'old timer' down the street or a reprint from a magazine article from the 50's about a buddy that had a buddy that got his head gaskets to glow at twilight and dunked them in coconut oil to quench. There are people that do this for a living and they will sell you the right gasket and you cannot improve on it. They will explain the proper 'o' ring methods (for deck or heads), the surface finish of the deck and the heads.
Don't forget that Bonneville and El Mirage are at greater elevation then I am here on the SF Bay mud flats. Less air. But copper gaskets I have made seem to work fine. I could consult with some "Expert". And I "could" buy my injection from Hilborn. Could take my brackets to a machine shop for drilling and taping. Could have the whole car built by guys who do it for a living. Or maybe not.
1/2 hard copper is the way to go. The soft copper becomes hard to handle in thin sections and long lengths, sort of goes "silly putty" on you. I posted a link to a good copper reference site, anything you want to know about copper and then some. I use it at work when I need to look up something for an application. http://www.copper.org/resources/properties/homepage.html Bob
Rich is right. The gasket of choice for racing is copper. And if it can survive that, it will work for your your drive to and from the Salt. I did see a copper gasket fail this year. Not on a car I work on, but one of the guys we race with. But I believe it was a dead cylinder that hydrauliced and pushed the gasket out. Actually this saved the engine. I crew with a guy with a blown BBC and an Injected BBC. Both on alcohol. Both run copper with iron blocks and aluminum heads. We retorque the heads after the first heat cycle, than don't touch them for the rest of the season. The blown car has 13:1 and 18 boost. the injected car 15:1. Frank
Here are some copper gaskets I made at home. 32 Plymouth OHV (Y Block head) conversion. 26 Dodge flathead and 26 Dodge with Morton & Brett OHV conversion. I have not seen any of these in catalogs any where. Some may notice the Plymouth gasket is somewhat damaged. But this is the result of a catastrophic failure of the block/ deck surface. It kind of just fell apart under the gasket. You may also see that the Plymouth gasket was cut away so that the clamping force was concentrated on the cylinder area. RTV was used to seal around oil drain back areas and the block and head were dry decked. This gasket was used several times. Being annealed between each installation. I used K&W Copper seal every time. After making the Pontiac gaskets at home I took my drawing to Bob Dalton of D & A Engineering and he used his CNC punch press to make several more sets. So I guess you could say they were Pro gaskets by then. Still used a torch to anneal them. Bob also made gaskets for local Top Fuel nostalgia 392 racers. Seemed to work for them.
Rich : If you don't mind, would you explain your annealing process with a torch ? I have heard mixed reviews about quenching the gasket. Thx, Neil....
As explained in post #7 I use a straight acetylene flame to soot one side of the gasket. Then with a soft oxy-act flame heat to other side until the soot burns off. Seems to work. Gaskets are easy to make as long as you don't know you can't. You don't even need good hole saws the cheap sheet rock saws work on copper. Try it. You will like it.
I like Rich's thoughts. A blacksmith not far from where I grew up did a lot of things "experts" on the interweb say can't be done . Of course that was before the interweb,.
I've made parts for EGR tubes and other O.T. bits out of copper pipe and annealed without quenching. Copper pipe gets soft and compressible this way and works easily, and will re-harden with time/use. Also water outlet gaskets, header gaskets from sheet copper the same way.
Copper gaskets are so easy to anneal,,,,,no problem at all . Like the=man said,,,,,,heat it until you see it turning red like,,,,,,this can easily be done with a simple propane torch from any hardware store or Walmart . Do not quench . It will have some slight soot and maybe even a light scale residue left on it . No problem ,,,,,,,use a Scotchbrite pad or similar substance to clean the surface. They will be soft as butter after this,,,,,and will conform to any surface irregular or perfect. Torque them down and you are good . And they can be reused later,,,,if not damaged,,,,,,just clean ,,,,and they can be annealed again . Tommy
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