And yet another overheating issue.

Well I finally got my Anglia on the road last weekend but it's runnin hot. I've got a 400 dart little m block, stock bore, dart aluminum heads, 671 blower shop blower, 7lbs boost, griffin radiator,fan shroud,electric fan, 180 degree thermostat. Timing is 12 degrees initial timing with 24 degrees centrifical all in by 3000. The BDS web site calls for 16 to 26 degrees initial advance. YOWZA! That sure sounds like a lot of inital advance! cam is a solid roller 565 lift. Anybody got speriance in this area? Carbs a 750 mechanical hollyes. Any pointers appreciated.....TKO

 

Bump the timing first,, 12 isnt enough, but I think that 24 is too much, go to 16 and see what happens, my guess is you'll end up around 18.

 

Thanks, I'll give that a whirl!

 

When does it overheat? On the road or idling around. Sometimes when the engine is a tight fit you can have a hard time getting air out of the engine compartment. May help to punch some louvers in strategic areas. Try removing the hood and taking it for a drive. It would rule this theory out.
Jeff

 

You may want to back off some centrifugal when you increase the initial. About 32°-34° total with that boost should be enough. If you put 18° initial in, then reduce the centrifugal to 14°, then you can go to 20° initial if you need to.

With 7 lbs you might need an intercooler plate under the blower to cool the mixture down too. Much over 5 and they get warm.

 

Thanks Jeff, but i haven't gotten to the hood part yet. Not running one yet. It goes up to 180 and stays there for a while, then it'll creep up to 210-220, @ this point traffic light and stop signs are out of the question! Stop for a minute, maybee two & she'll boil over & peg the guage. Not real sweet on a fresh motor. Thanks for the input!...TKO.

 

BTW, more initial up to a point makes the engine run cooler because the closer to TDC it fires the more of the mixture gets burnt in the exhaust. This transfers more heat to the coolant and less in the cylinder where it needs to be. Just watch the centrifugal and reduce it to match the initial, if you get too much total timing in you can have detonation.

 

Thanks Bill, I suspected I would have to reduce the centrifugal whne bumping up the initial. I also suspect this is what happened to the last blower motor that was in this car. The previous owner had a 355 with a 671 running 41 total degrees. ended up melting the pistons for this or some other reason. Anyway, it soured him on the car. Well I guess the distributor comes out tonight for the recurve. Again, thanks very much for the recomendations...TKO

 

If the recurve doesn't solve the problem, drop the thermostat temp...try one that opens at 160 degrees, that way it gets a jump on the cooling and gives you more time to get through the area causing you to overheat.
Water Wetter is also a great product. It does work.
These may be bandaids and hide another issue, but they may also work nicely.

Manual or auto trans? If it's an auto trans, go with an additional trans cooler to take some of the heat out of the fluid before it goes into the radiator.

What pound radiator cap are you running?

Push or pull-type electric fan? Do a search and get some opinions on which is better.

-Brad

 

Thanks Brad, I've got an order in for water wetter, should be here today. I've already got an external trans. cooler. I went digging through my msd parts last night & the biggist bushing for the distributor they supplied me was an 18 degree. So it looks like 16 initial & 18 centrifugal to see what happens. Anybody know if msd makes a bigger bushing? Maybe a 16 or a 14 degree?

 

Oh yea. I just got a 14-18 lb radiator cap & an overflow tank to install.Anybody make just an 18 lb. cap?
thanks.....TKO

 

Tom, anything new on the overheating?

Do you have a pulley set to cut the boost down a little until you get it sorted out? About 4.5-5.0 might help. 7 lbs shouldn't be overheating, but Roots blowers get hot. If it helps, you can get a charge air cooler that goes between the blower and intake to carry some heat away.

 

Hi Bill, Not yet. I still haven't been able to recurve the distributor yet, but I've set aside all day tomorrow to tinker. The biggest bushing msd gave me was an 18 degree, so I'll stick that in & bump it to 16 initial. I'm pretty confident that will help out a good bit. just to see what would happen, I advanced the distributor up pretty far as well as my boost retard & drove it around the block. Ran just a smidge over 180 degrees & didn't creep up. I think you'all have got me on the right track! I'll keep you informed as things transpire...Thanks...TKO

 

my friend has a 32 ford with a 400 chevy it has msd ignition,871 blower 2 holley 80592 blower carbs ,on pump gas on the street,timing set at 35 total 18 btdc initial and an electric waterpump,runs 160 any day anytime.been on the road for about 3 years.Also many blower companys reccomend a vavuum advance hooked up to manifold vacuum.

 

Thanks sdluck, hopefully about this time tomorrow I'll be singin the same song. Sounds like a similar setup except I've got a 671 & mechanical aluminum water pump. Sure hope it works! I'll post after the test drive!!!TKO

 

I agree with manifold vacuum vacuum advance being beneficial, if not necessary to keep from overheating due to retarded timing at idle but don't understand the source in this case.
I would think, since the blower is going to be negating any manifold vacuum at most if not all throttle positions, the source should be above/before the blower, between the blower and the throttle plates.
Is this what is meant?

 

As reported by a couple of pals:

One car, similar to the Anglia (1938 Morris 12) ran a mild, naturally aspirated 350 Chevy.
He had openings to each side of the radiator and a hood as well.

The car ran warm and tended to overheat in traffic until he closed off the openings.

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The other car, a 31 Model A coupe with an SBC, 350 I think, ran a 671 blower, cam etc.
With 9.0/1 pistons the car ran warm, almost hot.
I don't know how much boost was involved nor the pulley sizes.

When he went to 7.4/1 pistons the overheating went away.

 

Update: Recurved the distrubutor Sat. Installed overflow tank, water wetter, new radiator cap. Initial indications are COOL AS A CUCUMBER! Put about 10 miles on it & never went above 185 degrees. Never got into any stop & go stuff but things are looking much better. It did puke a bit after shutting it off, hopefully the radiator just finding its desired level. Many thanks to all hambers for all the recommendations. I may not be totaly done with the tweeking, but I'm way ahead of where I was. THANKS!!!!!!!!!TKO