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Projects And So It Begins

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Piewagn, Jul 14, 2019.

  1. Boden
    Joined: Oct 10, 2018
    Posts: 747

    Boden

    Haha


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  2. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    Done for now.... This will be the foundation for my X member....I will be making the rest on my own. The prices for those that are out there are outrageous and I got this piece dirt cheap. I’ve got plenty of material here to make the rest!! IMG_1269.JPG IMG_1268.JPG


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  3. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    Just noticed this! Been bamboozled? Did I get components from 2 different steering columns?? I’ll probably have to shorten anyway and I do want the column shift, already have the column shift trans. Just a little agitated the seller didn’t tell me..... IMG_1285.JPG


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  4. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    Ouch!! It’ll cost me a sh*t load to get the parts for this! I should probably expect this with any column I pick up I guess....sector shaft not much better! IMG_1286.JPG


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  5. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    Well, I’m guessing things just got considerably less expensive! Thought I had to replace the whole shaft AND worm gear for, like, a bajillion friggin’ dollars! Macs and other places have the worm gear only for 68 bucks. I haven’t priced bearings and sector shaft yet. I’ll look for a kit too. IMG_1287.JPG


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  6. Are you planning on mounting the transmission solidly?
     
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  7. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    Yes Rich! I will be using "C" channel to fabricate the rest of the "X" member with that center section as the foundation. I will be mounting the X solidly to the frame. I will be using some type of rubber insulators at trans mounting points. I will document the process as I progress. Thanks for your interest!
     
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  8. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    Will be capping both sides and fabricating the diagonal braces to attach here...Don’t know if I can describe it, but the picture is in my head and I will be documenting the X frame fabrication.... IMG_1302.JPG


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  9. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    Now to fabricate the diagonal supports and attach...I’ll have to have the engine and trans in place so I can measure my length.... IMG_1303.JPG IMG_1304.JPG


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  10. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    Now, when I get my center section height where it’s needed, I’ll make the center lateral supports out to the frame, make some gussets and weld it all up! I used 3/32” steel to make the C channel, it matched the thickness of the center section. I’m moving forward fellas, the pace will pick up once I get the X frame and engine placement squared away.... IMG_1308.JPG


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  11. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,442

    Mart
    Member

    Sorry to be the one to say it but what you did to the X member centre part and the rear mount will be no good. You need rubber between the trans and the frame. the rear mount is later, uses rubber donuts or maybe 46 type rear isolator, the X member center requires a 32-36 type rear hardware with the correct rear mount to suit the x member. The holes were in the right place in the first place.

    Posted with the best intentions.

    Mart.

    Edit: I missed your previous reply re rubber mounts. I'd be interested to see how you do that. The easiest way would be to get the rear mount setup that matches the x member centre in it's original format.
     
  12. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    I got the center section dirt cheap and all I did to the center section was move the captured nuts in to fit the mount. Sorry, I’m not paying 1000 bucks for a k or x frame that everyone I find seems to be tagged. I have a huge selection of rubber insulators here at work to reduce vibration in the machines I repair. There will be no problem choosing a nice pair of insulators to isolate any vibration. Thanks for your interest and concern....


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  13. Austinrod
    Joined: Jun 14, 2012
    Posts: 2,032

    Austinrod
    Member
    from Austin

    Cool build
     
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  14. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    Thank you kind Sir!
     
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  15. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,442

    Mart
    Member

    Glad you have something in mind to get some isolation in there.

    I'm enjoying following the build.

    Mart.
     
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  16. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    Yeah.....calculated it all in. It's hard to describe the picture in your head sometimes. I went into this with a budget and the price of those X and K members just blew me out of the water! I install industrial drives and figured I'd be able to come up with something, then I bumbled onto that center section and I'm making it work with what I have........I can always use these......:D Thanks Mart!!
    upload_2019-9-24_17-16-51.png
     
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  17. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    My spreader bar finally came and I got my rear axle in....now I can locate engine and trans and finish fabricating mounts and X member! Hershey next week to hopefully pick up some needed items. Once the engine and trans is located, I can really start rollin’! IMG_1338.JPG


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  18. catdad49
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 5,061

    catdad49
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Great stuff, Pie. With your skills and patience this build should move along nicely. Can't wait to see her up on four wheels, Carp.
     
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  19. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,659

    nunattax
    Member
    from IRELAND

    LUCK
     
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  20. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    Thanks Carp! This is something I've been dreaming about for a long time and bumbled into this coupe and I just couldn't let it go without snatchin' it up.....Hopefully things will start smoothing out and coming together.....
     
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  21. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    Thank you kind Sir.....I need all I can get!
     
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  22. eicke
    Joined: Jul 30, 2012
    Posts: 63

    eicke
    Member

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  23. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    Heat....I used a propane torch. They will polish up nice with some compound. I used one of those small 3" air polishers.....
     
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  24. eicke
    Joined: Jul 30, 2012
    Posts: 63

    eicke
    Member

    Thanks...Gonna try it. Have a few FORD V8 caps and a set of Lincoln Zephyr's. Ultimately would like to rehab the Zephyr's. Seen where guys drill a hole in the back and use air to "blow" it off. Again, awesome job!
     
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  25. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    Thank you kind Sir! It’ll expand enough to get past the lip...you may have to pry a little on the opposite side with a plastic prying spoon. Mine came right off! I will be painting the rest of the caps when the time comes.


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  26. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    Hershey score! Now have 3 sets of tail lamps to decide on, finally got my steering wheel FOR 60 BUCKS and my front glass for 30!! A nice set of fog lamps with unique bulbs....and carbs for 20 bucks to complete my trips!.....all in all....a great day!!! IMG_1360.JPG


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  27. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    Will be restoring the ‘30 Pa plate for my “YOM” registration....
    I took the fog lamps apart and discovered those are lenses and not bulbs! Never saw a fog lamp lenses like this... rewiring right now and will be using one on my Tudor and one on the coupe. Maybe you guys could help me decide on the tail lamps? So far I’ve gotten votes for the 58 Bel Air lamps from my Wife and my neighbor...any input is welcome! Thanks fellas!!


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  28. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 37,039

    loudbang
    Member

    58 Belairs and use the clear half for backup lights gets my vote. :)
     
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  29. I like seeing this, my next A project will be column shift. Already have the flathead with '40 trans in the frame with a '46 merc column. I'll be watching this one progress.
     
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  30. Piewagn
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,315

    Piewagn
    Member

    That seems to be the consensus....thank you!


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