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And a build continues

Discussion in 'HA/GR' started by canadianal, Jul 14, 2012.

  1. canadianal
    Joined: May 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    canadianal
    Member
    from canada

    Made some progress during a little heat wave here. Moved the auto shifter from the rt side to left side plus converted it to a manual rod shifter direct to the transmission. Also made a neutral/park starter lockout setup that attaches to the rod . It all works real good.Am going to build another shift rod as the 1st was a scab together unit to see if he thing would work. Got some more wireing put together also
     
  2. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Take a few pictures of the new shifter setup when you are done, would like to see how you did it. Sounds real nice and no cable.:)

    Heat wave meaning something above -0- F :eek:

    Are you getting around a little better these days? Sure the cold weather up your way does not help.

    Build is looking good.
     
  3. canadianal
    Joined: May 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    canadianal
    Member
    from canada

    It works really good and does not bind at all, the rail slides in a slot and then i marked off park and neutral so the micro switch is acivated on those spots . Like i said I am going to make up another shift rod with a heavier rod that goes inside the shifter. For this one i just used the end of the original cable rod which is a little light. Its very simple but works.

    It got up to 32 F this weekend for a day and then back to the deepfreeze I miss riding my snowmobile as missed a few derbies this winter. i cant take the pounding yet
     

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    Last edited: Feb 20, 2013
  4. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    AL --Thanks for the pictures.;)
     
  5. canadianal
    Joined: May 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    canadianal
    Member
    from canada

    iTs getting warmer worked a bit more n the car
    After speaking to another dragster owner put some motorcycle mirrors on the car yesterday afternoon and finished up most of the wiring. Put a trans brake switch in also lower down on the brake lever am goingt o see how it works once i get a trans brake.As i am going to to race the car i might as well put one in.
    Now to modify the bottom scatter shield to fit the powerglide. I think it would be good to have it.
    The list is slowly getting shorter
     

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    Last edited: Feb 24, 2013
  6. injected27
    Joined: May 2, 2012
    Posts: 142

    injected27
    Member

    Car is looking great. I use a push button micro switch for my transbrake cars. I generally put them out of the way so the can not be activated down track. I know a guy who put it on the shifter knob and got a nice set of seatbelt stripes when he activated it getting ready to shift. Not knocking where you have it but I would hate for that to happen to you. It could sure make a good day of drag racing bad in a hurry.
     
  7. canadianal
    Joined: May 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    canadianal
    Member
    from canada

    Yeah I kind of thought that too about accidental activation but it is pretty low on the handle. I am going to try it there and see how it goes i actually thought of putting it lower still on the handle . I am trying to find a comfortable place. Got the flywheel shield put together turned out well. paint is drying.
     
  8. canadianal
    Joined: May 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    canadianal
    Member
    from canada

    Update- well winter is still here had a few warm days and then stormed and snowed off and on for the last few weeks, its still white and cold out there:( flood warnings in my area are over now at least
    drilled the axles and put some arp studs in plus took the diff apart and put a limited slip carrier in it. hope it works ok its a modified gov lock with extra clutches.ordered a shift light also, Seems to be really tight. tranny is at a friends place getting the trans brake in and the drivesaft is at the machine shop. Just waiting for parts right now when it warms up the fun will begin
     
  9. injected27
    Joined: May 2, 2012
    Posts: 142

    injected27
    Member

    Good to here your making progress. Our car have came to another stand still. You know the old saying when you got the time you ain't got the money. Well it been a little bit of all of that with me. Post some pictures when you get a little more done.
     
  10. bobw
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 2,376

    bobw
    Member

    I like the shape of your cage. When I was checking with transmission specialists they recommended a real loose converter and a trans brake for best performance. You should get the max performance out of your rig with your set up.

    I'm still waiting for the snow to melt so I can get the dragster into the front garage. Minnesota is just southern Canada you know.
     
  11. canadianal
    Joined: May 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    canadianal
    Member
    from canada

    Thanks Bob it should get up and go, the cage fits me 'just" in the shoulders is a fine setup. just waiting for parts
     
  12. injected27
    Joined: May 2, 2012
    Posts: 142

    injected27
    Member

    I will say this about a transbrake it will tear a covertor all to pieces if it is not build for that purpose. I know this first hand. Me and my dad where trying to bracket race on a budget we where running a convertor from a small company that was use to building convertors for foot brakers. 14 transmission later we bought a TCI and threw the other one away. The guy rebuild it evertime for shipping but that did not help use any.
     
  13. canadianal
    Joined: May 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    canadianal
    Member
    from canada

    Yep i was concerned too, the guy who was putting in the transbrake checked the trans out and told me it has "parts" in it with extra clutches plus other things really good shape. I did not get a pro tree brake just a et brake as was told the pro hit pretty hard off the line.
    hopefully with not a huge amount of power and the light weight of the car, things last.
     
  14. injected27
    Joined: May 2, 2012
    Posts: 142

    injected27
    Member

    Mainly it is the internals of the convertor that is the problem. You have to get a convertor that will work with a transbrake. If you use a delay box roll in and hit the brake at a idle. Pull up your RPM to around 2000 and let go of the button and hammer the throttle. It will only go up on the convertor for a few seconds and it will make a convertor last a lot longer. The longer your up on the convertor the more heat it will build and it life will be shortened. I run a convertor for about 6 years and never had a problem doing that way. I only had it rebuilt because I changed engine combinations. It was a JW convertor but I have a coan that has been just as good.
     
  15. canadianal
    Joined: May 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    canadianal
    Member
    from canada

    I see guys that stand on the brake for a long time at our races ( the time breaks can be pretty big) and wonder how hot things get before they actually go. the trans temp would spike like a rocket.
     
  16. canadianal
    Joined: May 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    canadianal
    Member
    from canada

    trans is in and buttoned up picked up driveshaft today, built another armoured battery box for the car as a spare that would fit on the back above the diffy. I designed it as a bolt on . I am leery about the starting capacity of the 375 amp optima. I am going to go the optima but will keep the other box in the wings jut in case. just a few more things before i light the thing up spring is here now finally :)
     

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  17. canadianal
    Joined: May 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    canadianal
    Member
    from canada

    got it up and running today set valves and timing and buttoned it up. Like the holley double pumper really good trottle response jetting seems good only issue i see is i have only 3 lbs of fuel pressure (a little on he light side) seems to fill and operate fine but will see on a 1/4 blast. Have a few wires to get tied up and a few little things to do but looks good . sounds awsum. Freinds down a few blocks heard it fire up and were over lookie looing.
    It sounds like a old fighter plane at certain rpm an nice deep drone .
     

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  18. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Al, that is one fine looking ride. I know the weather is still bad back your way, but when do you think it will be on your local raceway? I love the pie crust slicks. I talked to Skip a lot about that engine and piston combination and will be very interested in your run sheet times. Let us all know when you make your first passes.:D

    You need to get a photo into (old6rodder) so he can put the car in the HA/GR & SDRA Photo Thread.:) You don't need times to start, he will update them as you send them.;)
     
  19. canadianal
    Joined: May 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    canadianal
    Member
    from canada

    Our first race here is june 15-16 so a while yet,Am glad i got the trans brake cause there is no way to hold it against the hand brake to get the rpms up at all against the convertor. I am going to run the 1st day with the 6 inch tires.
    I may have to eventualy modify the cowl a bit. I have a heck of a time getting out of the car. Kind of like getting a square peg through a round hole, getting my shoulders out of the cage and getting my legs under me is a problem. . Have to figure out a way and maybe practice getting in and out a bit
    I will get a photo to old6 in a while once i have the roll bar padding on and it would be considerd finished
     
  20. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Al, that will be just around the corner as there is always something to do on these cars. Hope you can make at least one pass on the 6" tires and the hand brake only to see what the numbers are. The transbrake will get the RPM's where you want and the stall also. I know you had said in a PM that you are real busy during the races but I hope you get some good passes in.:D

    With that cage tilting in from the shoulder bar it is a little more of a job getting your shoulders out through the cage. I have a friend with a small cage on his NE-1 car that has to turn 90 degrees to get his shoulders in/out of his 16" cage. It will take some practice before you find the right combination.:):rolleyes:
     
  21. moracing
    Joined: May 13, 2011
    Posts: 195

    moracing
    Member
    from arizona

    Love the pics car realy looks fast just sitting there ....
     
  22. Hi Al,

    Nice job. You've done a lot of awesome work on the car. One you figure out how to leave hard, I'm thinking you will be adding wheelie bars. Maybe high 10's without much drama.

    Skip Pipes
     
  23. canadianal
    Joined: May 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    canadianal
    Member
    from canada

    thanks Skip i am glad it meets your approval, the car is going to be put on dispaly at the local mall at the end of the month as part of our drag race club display.
     
  24. Old28
    Joined: Jan 11, 2009
    Posts: 1,390

    Old28
    Member

    Pictures always Al, we love them pictures as they are easier on old eyes

    than reading. It will show well, have fun.;):rolleyes:
     
  25. canadianal
    Joined: May 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    canadianal
    Member
    from canada

    waiting for the sun to shine, picked up some jet extensions, float and 150 high flow needle and seats for the carb. am going to try to get by with the mechanical 3.5 lb pump by increasing the flow by 50 %. buuilt a NHRA air deflector for the cowl, turned out good.
     
  26. CrkInsp
    Joined: Jul 17, 2006
    Posts: 513

    CrkInsp
    Member
    from B.A. OK

    canadianal - What size master cylinder are you using.
    We had the same problem, solved it by going to a smaller master cylinder.
    Went from a 1 in. to a 7/8 in.. Can now hold a 320 in. GMC with one hand.
     
  27. canadianal
    Joined: May 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    canadianal
    Member
    from canada

    I really dont know the mast cyl diameter think its a early ford unit. Interesting thst just going from 1 inch to 7/8 made a big difference. May have to look into the MC . I have yet to make a run with the car and will be doing some testing and tuning to see what I can and cannot do.
    Thanks very much for the tip.
     
  28. Old6rodder
    Joined: Jun 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,546

    Old6rodder
    Member
    from SoCal
    1. HA/GR owners group

    1" to 7/8" diameter is just over a 23 percent pressure improvement (basic piston surface area problem). That should certainly be noticable.

    The trade off is length of travel at the pedal of course, but that should be well within the range of an average linkage.
     
  29. canadianal
    Joined: May 15, 2012
    Posts: 164

    canadianal
    Member
    from canada

    yeh a stock master cyl is designed to operate 4 wheel cylinders with the pressure of your foot and the lever muliplication on that. Now it is being used to only operate 2 wheel cylinders and rear ones at that ,with only one arm pulling power. The travel of the wheel cyl would only be around half. One could get a lot more pressure muliplication with a 7/8 master or even a little smaller bore and still not overpower the brake syst.
    Another possible cure would be oversize wheel cylinders if they would fit or are avaliable.
     
  30. CrkInsp
    Joined: Jul 17, 2006
    Posts: 513

    CrkInsp
    Member
    from B.A. OK

    canadianal - Both ways will work, in our case it was easer to change the MC.
    Our 7/8in MC came from an early Mustang (6 cyl. ).
     

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