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Aluminum intake help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by IRISH13, Mar 4, 2013.

  1. IRISH13
    Joined: Oct 19, 2010
    Posts: 71

    IRISH13
    Member
    from SoCal

    I got an old Holley intake for a sbc that I want to save/use. Has the winters W on it and says dominator. Im thinking its kinda old. Its got a allenhead plug in one of the front water outlets. Ive tried getting it out, but it wont budge. Im afraid of breaking the aluminum. Any tips or tricks to getting the plug out would be appreciated..Thanks
     
  2. henryj1951
    Joined: Sep 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,304

    henryj1951
    Member
    from USA

  3. super-six
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 191

    super-six
    Member

    I was able to do this by using a #1 tip on an acetylene torch and carefully heating the center of the pipe plug, but you do not want to overheat the plug.
     
  4. captmullette
    Joined: Oct 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,929

    captmullette
    Member

    trans fluid and acetone mixture, let it set
     

  5. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,623

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Try the heat and wax trick.
     
  6. Tap at the fitting with an air hammer then remove it.
     
  7. lht
    Joined: Jan 18, 2013
    Posts: 243

    lht
    Member

    little heat impact driver watch it allens strip easy
     
  8. jjflash67
    Joined: Nov 19, 2006
    Posts: 76

    jjflash67
    Member
    from Ohio

    Winters foundry used a snowflake not a W for their logo. If it says Dominator it sure ain't a Winters.
     
  9. This ans a little cocacola ( the real stuff) it will eat the corrosion away.

    When it starts to come loose don't just haul it out working is back and forth bit my bit.

    Sometimes it helps to have the intake held frmly in place like bolted to an engine help in place.
     
  10. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    Could that W stand for Weiand ? I know they usually spell it out on their intakes, but maybe not on this version.

    Don
     
  11. How about a picture of this intake as well as this "W"?
     
  12. ididntdoit1960
    Joined: Dec 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,011

    ididntdoit1960
    Member
    from Western MA

    Holley used winters to cast some manifolds - I had a "zora duntov" edition street dominator that was basically a single plan with a divider cast in and a crossover around the back - it had the winters (snowflake) logo and the firing order on the runners...
     
  13. IRISH13
    Joined: Oct 19, 2010
    Posts: 71

    IRISH13
    Member
    from SoCal

    Isnt this the winters W logo? The allen head is bad. Ill try the heat again. Only paid $35 for the intake at a yard sale.
     

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  14. IRISH13
    Joined: Oct 19, 2010
    Posts: 71

    IRISH13
    Member
    from SoCal

    Why not..
     
  15. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,685

    56sedandelivery
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Was'nt the extra "runner" an attempt at increasing miliage, not horsepower? Butch/56sedandelivery.
     
  16. Seems like the Winters mark.

    It looks like you have enough of that plug sticking out to use a pair of Vise-Grips on it. You can also try to hammer in a Torx bit into the hole. That works at times as well.
     
  17. Jokester
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 489

    Jokester
    Member

    Weld a big nut to the plug. Easier to get ahold of.

    .bjb
     
  18. IRISH13
    Joined: Oct 19, 2010
    Posts: 71

    IRISH13
    Member
    from SoCal

    Thats what I was thinking, but can it be grounded with the aluminum surounding the plug?
     
  19. CodeMonkey
    Joined: Sep 13, 2012
    Posts: 92

    CodeMonkey
    Member
    from Moline IL

    Might be easier to take a 5/8" or 3/4" bolt, grind down the sides to fit where the allen wrench was stripped out and weld that in the plug. Not sure how you'd weld a nut on there. If you're concerned about grounding through the aluminum, you could attach your ground clamp to the bolt. Then you'd have plenty to grab hold of... Either way, the heat will help loosen things up. As Porknbeaner said, work it back and forth.
     
  20. BOBBYA312
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 140

    BOBBYA312
    BANNED
    from Ala

    If all else fails, centerpunch the plug and carefully drill it out. Start with a small bit in the center and swap out to increasingly larger drill bits till you are close to the outside diameter. It takes time and patience. I've done it and actually picked the seized part's threads out of the hole.
     
  21. IRISH13
    Joined: Oct 19, 2010
    Posts: 71

    IRISH13
    Member
    from SoCal

    Thanks for the help and ideas. Ill go get to workn on it.
     
  22. Or you can drill it most of the way out then take a hacksaw blade and cut a slice on the inside then collapse it in on itself. I have done tons of broken off plumbing pieces that way.
     
  23. Listen to this guy...........

    Beaner's got a degree in "Laying Pipe"! ;)
     
  24. chevyburb
    Joined: Apr 17, 2006
    Posts: 169

    chevyburb
    Member

    I agree with the "drill it out" guys. I did it once and it worked perfect. With the hex in the center of the plug, it should act as self centering for a drill bit slightly larger than the flats on the hex. then work your way up with bits until you just kiss the threads of the manifold. At that point I was able to "pick" the threads clean.
     
  25. After carefully protecting the manifold, I'd cut a whole in an old glove and fill the Allen whole with weld. Then weld a nut on the plug. It will probably come out by fingers after it cools.
     
  26. TurboX2
    Joined: Oct 1, 2012
    Posts: 207

    TurboX2
    Member

    It is very likely that when removed it will pull the threads out with the plug. You would be best to drill it out and cut as advised. That almost looks like a SS plug and SS and Alu. don't like to be together unless antisieze is used.
     
  27. henryj1951
    Joined: Sep 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,304

    henryj1951
    Member
    from USA

    heat and touch the thread area with candle wax as it cools
    why.... i see it now its all F#C&E%up... and need a new one
    Diego, el cajon, orange county?

    :cool:
     
  28. ghornbostel
    Joined: Jan 3, 2012
    Posts: 131

    ghornbostel
    Member

    Drill it out. Even better if you have a left hand tap size drill as it will heat up from drilling and when the drill catches it should back right out.

    Regards
    Greg Hornbostel
     
  29. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 2,724

    GearheadsQCE
    Alliance Vendor

    I've used all the methods above. In your situation, I would combine the heat and drill methods.

    Drill a hole all the way through the plug. Use a drill the same size as the hex to keep it centered. Then, heat the remaining plug to a dull cherry red. pull the torch away and let it cool until you can comfortably hold your hand on it. Repeat twice.
    After the third time you can add the bee's wax. Then unscrew the plug. You CAN use an 'Easy Out' but the welded on nut or vise grips will work better.

    When I taught Autoshop, we called this the 'three heat method'. The heating and cooling of the plug will cause the bond (rust, corrosion, or whatever, to give up.

    P.S. You can substitute an arc welder for the torch if the flame is a problem. They make electric coil heaters to do this but I never found them necessary.
     
  30. IRISH13
    Joined: Oct 19, 2010
    Posts: 71

    IRISH13
    Member
    from SoCal

    Well I got that sumbich out! Took a while. I tried a couple different ways, but in the end, bolted it to a junk motor and drilled all the way thru the plug. Welded a grade 8 bolt and just kept heat, slight pressure and oil on it. Just needs some clean up now. Thanks again for the help. Matt
     

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