The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Chucky, Dec 8, 2012.
Also agree with Kamp. You really need to redo this system.
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Thanks everybody-I ordered some Russell "lok" type hose and Russell fittings. Sometimes asking a question on the HAMB is like volunteering to be on the bottom of a hog pile. You guys treated me pretty darn good though, thanks again. I guess I assumed the solid engine mounts would hold everything. "Assumed" - let the bashing begin!
Live n' learn!
Now take 2 beers and call us in the morning.
Yes I see a problem, you need some sort of a vibration isolator, either a couple of loops or coils if you prefer ot a rubber joint.
While I run aluminum on the street I agree with waddyacare, it is primarily for racing applications. Now that we are running alcohol in our fuel it becomes more of an issue, aluminum and alcohol don't mix.
Here is what I am doing on my newer builds, I run a hard steel line from my tank to my regulater, I run a rubber splice at the regulater then I run steel line from my regulater to my carb/carbs with a rubber splice at the carbs.
Not very high tech but it works real well and can be made clean.
If you want to run AN fittings from your regulator to your carbs then attach your regulator to the engine, preferably as close to the carbs as possible.
i do to a point. but ive run al.line on every car ive built.and the only one ive ever had trouble with was one that didnt have any rubber just all al. line from the tank to the tunnelram.and it was the flairs that were cracking.i use al line from the tank to were it will turn up towards the carbs.there i use some stell braided hose then again with the al line up till the carbs then its braided hose again.most of my set ups look almost like swades.one of my cars has had the same al.lines on it for over 7 yrs. everyday street racer and still no leaks.i think its all about how you put your lines together.and where you use the rubber line.but then again i just my be lucky for a change...lol but ive been using al lines for 30 yrs.and just that one bad set up.
I was unaware of that. What's the adverse effect? Corrosion similar to aluminum & steel???
The first thing required before flaring is the finish on the tube end. It must be free of ANY burrs! Using some emery rolled to a cone shape, sand the inside edge of the tube until it's very smooth, then flare. When you flare only expose about an 1/8 in. Keep the flare a little smaller. Preferably I would use S.S. type 304, then polish. It won't crack and will hold 3000psi.
Corrosion similar to battery acid and blue jeans.
I used to knwo this fella that ran a fuel car and after the days running he would drain his tank of what ever was left in it and run a tank of gasoline through it. Talk about an eye burner, I asked him why once and he said to keep the alcohol from eating things up. Granted he was running methanol and not a blend but we are getting more and more alcohol in our fuel as time goes by.
I may be wrong, but, I think I read in a recent NHRA rulebook that you could not mount your fuel regulator on the firewall. Anyone else recall this?
Hmmm... I believe you're correct.
If you run the top lube through it, it takes care of the corrosion issues.
Long straight runs of metal tubing can absorb lateral motion without having to endure high stress. Auto trans cooler lines survive fine with a long free span between rad and first support, and sometimes the first support is "soft."
"Rubber" hose is only fleixible in the lateral direction too. If the motion/vibration is going to be in 3 directions the hose needs to have a 90 degree bend, a hump or loop, or there need to be 2 of them. See pages 17-19 here
http://www.parker.com/literature/Bulletin C4400-A UK 2008-06-04.pdf
Dane -- My thoughts exactly !!
I suppose some folks think allen cap screws or aircraft fasteners are not HAMB friendly either.
Our Fuel roadster in the 60's had so many allen fasteners that it was nicknamed "One Step Beyond" by some people, Remember the TV show by that name?
Yes you are correct
I already have had people mention both those items on my Willys build
Luckily, I haven't mounted the regulator yet. WTF, why would it matter if it was mounted to the firewall? Any explanation on that? Seemed to make sense to me - close to the carbs, able to see the gauge while running / adjusting.......OK guys - where should I mount it? Oh yeah, thanks too........
Its a safety thing, ruptured line would let fuel into drivers area
mine is mounted on my tubes that run forward
Dumb question, but why run aluminum instead of steel line? I never saw the purpose of aluminum line other than weight, but if you're concerned with save less than 1lb , dont eat for one meal or make more HP.
The idea is to keep all fuel plumbing out of the plane of the flywheel, clutch, converter etc.....scatter sheilded or not
Ask the sanctioning bodies that question. There are many things I don't agree with but if I'm going to be allowed to race at one of their tracks I need to follow "their" rules.
Remember..... House Rules!
Hey Langy, that looks nice. Looks like it is the correct distance away from the firewall. But I can't think of a way to not pass the flywheel with a fuel line. I do understand the "playing by their rules". I've got some reading to do.........
Per NHRA General Regulations:
"Fuel lines (except steel braided lines) in the flywheel/bellhousing area must be enclosed in a 16-inch length of steel tubing. 1/8 inch-minimum wall thickness, securely mounted as a protection against fuel line rupture"
Airplanes use mostly aluminum tubing. I am sure this is for weight savings. The complete fuel system, brake system and hydraulic system for the landing gear in mine and most I have worked on is aluminum. Airplanes and helicopters see a great deal of vibration. Wherever there is a chance of movement between connections a flex section is used. I like the PTFE braided. The one thing to keep in mind on any installation of aluminum tubing is supporting it well. It will start to vibrate in unsupported areas and then it will work harden and crack. In auto applications I like stainless as the weight is typically not a concern and if you use type 316 then it is very corrosion resistant. Using a quality flaring tool like the burnishing ones from Parker will eliminate alot of problems of cracking and leaking at the flare.
I have used aluminum lines on my cars for years running it along the frame. This setup on my 63 has been on it since 2006 with no leaks ever. Course I use braided line from the frame to the carb and at the tank to the hard line. Ron
Aluminm line should never be used for fuel lines. It will not stand up to vibration like steel line will. Yes it is easier to usethan steel line, but it is just not safe.
OK, got that: No rubber fuel lines on HAMB drag cars, right?
as cheap and available as AN fittings and hoses are why take the chance.
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