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Projects Almost Funny - AWB Barracuda Funny Car Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by squirrel, Nov 27, 2017.

  1. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,865

    squirrel
    Member

    thanks, things like this take a while to figure out. And end up being kind of simple, once you do figure it out.
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,865

    squirrel
    Member

    I found some panel bond adhesive at NAPA for $30. I didn't bother with the applicator gun...that's just for convenience. I guess I'll take the screws out after it sets up, and add some duraglass filler after it's cured.

    doors07.jpg

    doors08.jpg
     
  3. I feel dumb saying this to such a smart man. So with my balls in my throat here goes. Is that some sort of 1/8" ply (wood or paper product)? It's been said not to mix fillers or adhesives on such materials because it can pull (soak up) certain vital ingredients which can weaken products such as that and body fillers.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2018
  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,865

    squirrel
    Member

    yeah, I broke several rules when I did this! but I also didn't use the last bit of stuff that was down on the surface of the (1/2" ply)wood.

    I use cardboard for mixing and spreading filler also, but it gets a nice protective coat of filler after the first use.

    I use tagboard to mix epoxy, usually...this was a bit more than the normal batch, so I wanted a less flexible board.
     
  5. 1934coupe
    Joined: Feb 22, 2007
    Posts: 4,120

    1934coupe
    Member

    Jim I don't want to take you away from your work by answering my dumb question BUT I thought panel bond was the stuff they use in NASCAR when they crash to fix the fender a tape type stuff.

    Pat
     
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  6. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 891

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    The screws appear to be evenly spaced, perhaps you could put them back after the mud or replace them with pop rivets for an added layer of security. A few fasteners on the outside of a race car are perfectly acceptable and if the glue has any issues with the twisting and vibration created by that elephant engine they might assist in keeping it all together.
     
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  7. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 13,781

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    I'm sure it will work great Jim, I'm also pretty sure you are familiar with this product but maybe others have not, "Methacrylate" type adhesives are formulated to bond dissimilar materials together and the industry offers many for the various combinations.
    These are a two part cartridge that requires a special applicator, I will use an aluminum/fiberglass formulation for bonding the aluminum trunk riser in my Wescott bodied roadster, this was a reccomendation from Karl Wescott.


    One brand.

    http://www.itwadhesives.com/brands/Plexus/structural-adhesives
     
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  8. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,190

    Runnin shine
    Member

    After years of working in a body shop using cardboard and hearing all the cons of it, try telling the boss who thought it was frugal recycling, I finally broke down and got an aluminum thingy from HF. Although I love that it always easy to use and doesn’t buckle under spreading pressure. I must say I hate cleaning it every time.
    [​IMG]

    Although Jim may have seen this @madfish took the one the moose did and tweaked it.



    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  9. OK mystery solved on my end. The wording here indicates moose is a person and not an animal. A capital goes a long way in understanding. Yes, I'm complicated. :)
     
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  10. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 3,190

    Runnin shine
    Member

    Not complicated just one more example about how I need to better self edit.
    The Moose is world renown for his H.A.M.B. photoshop work.
    I of course have no business on this site if I don’t know what a Elephant motor is
    PS I suppose he used a shark as it was something he had quick and easy.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  11. The SEM panel bond is good stuff. I broke down and got a tube of 3M adhesive and the applicator, still set me back $86.
     
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  12. What an amazing build!
     
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  13. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 3,652

    choptop40
    Member

    Hey hey , also like the door tops...elephant in the wings....
     
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  14. Again , I don't mean to sharp shoot anything that Jim does. He doesn't need it, obviously. But, maybe for others.
    I don't recommend using aluminum rivets on race cars , and certainly not on cars that see a bunch of street miles.
    They will loosen up before long ,and create a nice castanet symphony for you. Not even to save two pounds
    Strictly my opinion, of course.
     
  15. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 3,652

    choptop40
    Member

    I thought it depends on the hardness...anyone?
     
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  16. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,865

    squirrel
    Member

    They might loosen, and I'll deal with it when the time comes. Our Airstream trailer had a bunch of loose aluminum pop rivets holding in the interior aluminum panels, too. But also a lot that were still doing fine. It kind of depends on what the load is on the rivet, and I tried to spread it out for most of the panels.
     
  17. Are you using the stock glass or tinted polycarbonate resin thermoplastic (Lexan) or just maybe you are considering, for authenticity sake, ordering up special extra thin glass from Corning.
    I'm interested in how you managed to remove the big back window. I'm going to have to remove mine eventually. I'm thinking of a hoist with a leveler and some array of suction cups. I checked the Acme catalogue but no help there. Are you going to use the glass again or have something made? I don't know of anyone offering a Lexan version.
    Also, I don't know if you actually got to drive your 'cuda when you got it and you may already know that despite being mildly tinted that big back window allows the interior to really heat up. And although they designed some flow through ventilation out back it doesn't flow well at all. You have more sun and heat than I do here so I'm curious to see how you plan to stay cool. I mean, you are already cool, everybody agrees on that. Maybe the answer is a fireproof cool suit plumbed to envelop you in a nontoxic, possibly cola flavored coolant/softdrink solution.
    At least think about it.
     
  18. Marcosmadness
    Joined: Dec 19, 2010
    Posts: 361

    Marcosmadness
    Member
    from California

    There are aircraft "pop" rivets that won't loose up although they are a bit pricey. Aircraft Spruce has a selection and they are close by in the LA area. There is also the 3M tape that will bond aluminum sheets together where the aluminum will tear before the adhesive gives out. The wing on the winged sprint cars use this 3M tape for assembly with no rivets!
     
  19. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,865

    squirrel
    Member

    I don't remember how I took out the back window, I probably had help. No suction cups or cranes, just a person or two. I cut the rubber gasket out first.

    Yes, it gets warm here. I expect it will get nice and toasty back there...but I'm used to that, so I'll figure out how to deal with it.

    The replacement rear window is 1/8" Lexan polycarbonate, it's formed to the correct shape, but it's for a race car, so it's designed to be riveted in place. I got it from GlassTek, who also made the doors, trunk lid, etc. I'll use the rubber gasket, which will require trimming the window about 5/8 of an inch all the way around, and also I'm going to have to add some filler to make it fit in the wide slot in the gasket. I have some sticky rubber tape, an inch wide, 1/16" thick that I ordered just for this. We'll see how it goes.

    I've been reading up on how to cut and finish Lexan. I have some experience with it, we use it on the robots (I mentor a high school robotics team). I might try the power planer trick, to make a smooth edge. I'll play with it first and see how it does. I know it's a pain to cut, and get a clean edge. I'll also pick up some 10 tpi laminate jigsaw blades, and see how they do.

    Now that I have the vent window frame sitting in one door, it's looking more like I can make all this stuff work. I have some 3/16" Lexan sheets for the side windows, that I need to cut and finish. I also am waiting for a few more pieces of weatherstrip to show up. There are a lot of parts to the windows, you know.

    doors09.jpg
     
  20. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 16,839

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Those are Cherry Rivets (referred to also as Blind Rivets) and they are used in Aircraft applications where buck riveting cannot be done due to minimal or no access and of course you can do the whole darn job with them. They are a bit tricky to remove once broken but so can the others. You can break them with a manual hand held tool or pneumatic gun.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2018
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  21. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,934

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    NASCAR guys use Bear Bond, that's the super tape.
    Panel bond is a 2 part flexible bonding agent, think epoxy with an attitude.
    SPark
     
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  22. patman
    Joined: Apr 30, 2007
    Posts: 548

    patman
    Member

    You going to put any vent holes and/or straps on that back window so it doesn’t pop out at speed from air pressure?
     
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  23. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,865

    squirrel
    Member

    I'm not planning on it, but we'll see what happens. If it feels like it's not in solid, I'l probably put some kind of retainer on it. I think being a fastback, it won't have as much suction as notchback cars. Yeah, I've seen windows fly out of cars at the races.
     
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  24. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 9,950

    RichFox
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I put my lexan windows in with screws. Why not? Trim covered the screw heads. Not going to pop out.
     
  25. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,865

    squirrel
    Member

    this car isn't built that way, unfortunately. And I want to keep the stock appearance...well, aside from the cartoon proportions.
     
  26. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 7,293

    noboD
    Member

    Squirrel, Lexan can be bent on a brake or in a slip roll without heat. I have done it many times. But it has a memory so it has to be overbent. I know you know this as you know all things mechanical.
     
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  27. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 4,004

    southcross2631
    Member

    We always bent our Lexan wings and windshields for our dirt late models in a break with no heat.
    We ran thousands of laps on rough dirt tracks with the whole body held together with aluminum rivets. The other competitors would loosen or remove the rivets for us every once in a while.
    Nice job on the car.
     
  28. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,865

    squirrel
    Member

    I already have a formed rear window, and the side windows are flat, so I don't need to do any forming or bending on this job. I've done some of that bending-Lexan-with-a-brake thing, it's fun to play with. Getting a full 90 degree bend takes some effort, but lesser angles are pretty easy to do.
     
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  29. boring-hop-yard
    Joined: Feb 24, 2008
    Posts: 69

    boring-hop-yard
    Member

    Greetings, I'm a fellow robotics mentor, team 2550.
    I use a razor knife on edge, pulling it down the edge of the lexan to get rounded.
    Takes a few passes but it rounds the edge nicely.
     
  30. I'm sure you did, S/C. Who cares about a few loose rivets and panels making noise on a race car with open headers?
    I was mentioning this for street cars that people actually drive for hundreds of miles at a time.
    Carry on...
     
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