The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by squirrel, Nov 27, 2017.
I'm not planning to use foam board in the car, sorry.
I like the idea of using balsa. It's lite and easy to shape.
Quite a while back I was reading Tex Smith's "How to build Fiberglass Hotrods" and there was some good info regarding strengthening panels using small diameter, but heavy wall card board tubing. They can be shaped with a little water as well. It made sense since a buddy and myself were planning to build the hood side of a Mustang Ram Air setup... never did though, but still learned a lot.
Love the project and the pragmatic approach!
I would guess anything to form a ridge could be used. The ridge is the strength not what is in it. It should expand and contract at the same rate as the glass so it will not tear itself apart. Cardboard is good because it has no strength to tear the glass apart.
Since your on a time crunch of sorts, I'd run the steel fenders for awhile. Unless you think you won't have enough power to pull them.
^^ I'm afraid I agree with this suggestion...
An electric turkey carving knife works great on that foam board, just make sure you clean it reeeal good if you want to keep peace in the family, kind of like baking headers in the oven.
...and cleaning parts in the dishwasher...
$27 hot wire styrofoam cutter works great. I use it a lot on the HO train layout>
I might run the steel fenders for a while, but we'll see how it goes.
I got a truck shipment today, a few big boxes with plasticky stuff in them. Doors, trunk, rear bumper, front valence, and a back window. And now I know the proper way to fill structural tubes in fiberglass parts! just find some carpet padding.
I've been tinkering with stuff that needs to be attached to the chassis and cage, so I can get everything welded on that needs to be welded on. I did the steering column yesterday, and spent the morning working on the gas pedal. I also have been staring at the new body parts, figuring out how to attach them, etc. I ought to make some door hinges, and some trunk hinges. I decided to spend a little time lightening the stock door hinges, it takes a while to take a pound off each one, but for a total of four pounds saved, it's probably worth it. Might be worth more to save another 4 pounds by making my own hinges? I don't know. maybe if I come up with an easy way to do it--seems to be a rather common thing to do on race cars, I just need to look at more pictures of them. Many have a lift off design, so you can remove the door quickly.
Back to work...
Looks great Jim , thanks for bringing us along
Glasstek, an Illinois company. I think Mortenson is a second generation owner.
They give good service, and the parts look good. They'll need some work to make fit, of course, but that's expected.
check out an older jeep for lift off door hinges. mean a real jeep like cj7 or cj5
i was thinking jeep hinges too. at least rip off the design
this is what I came up with to try....didn't take very long.
Stocker weighs two pounds, lightened is one pound, my fabbed part is half a pound, and is pretty thin, and missing one of the mounting bolts.
The glass doors weigh 15 lbs as shipped. I'll be cutting some stuff out, and adding other stuff, so they'll end up weighing quite a bit more, by the time the windows, latches, etc are in. But not the 75 lbs they started out as in steel!
the lower hinge (not shown) weighs another pound...and it has the door check...hmmm..
Thanks for showing the picture of the foam reinforcement in the fibreglass. My son and I are going to attempt to do a single grill, fender, and hood assembly, for his 47 International out of fibreglass, and were wondering how to make the assembly strong without adding too much weight. Now, we know. It is just a street machine, but that doesn't mean that it has to be heavy.
I really like the progress you are making on your car.
Back when I was in college, I helped my neighbor fix his fiberglass hood. He wanted to stiffen up the front edge where it cracked. Stick with me here. He used a clear vinyl aquarium type hose, about 1/2" diameter. He pulled out a big tub of margarine and greased the tube up from end to end. He drew a faint chalk line where he wanted the tube to run on the inside edge of the hood. Then he laid the tube out where he wanted it and put masking tape on it in several places to hold the shape he wanted. After everything was in place, he wiped the inside of the hood down with lacquer thinner to remove all our fingerprints and the margarine we slopped around trying to tape it down. He then glassed 3 to 4" wide strips over the top of the hose almost end to end, but stopped just short of the ends. After it cured, he grabbed the end of the tube with pliers and a little twisting and pulling the whole thing came out. After that he ran warm/hot water thru the newly created tube to wash out his "mold release" agent. It worked great. Almost no eight added, made the panel very stiff and wasn't ugly. Said he learned it boat building and they ran wiring thru them on boats.
There's your free tip of the day.
I always liked removing the Doors when working inside the Race Cars. These come in many different pin dia. and length. I would cut off one side of the T and depending on door and hinge design I may put the pin in from the bottom up. Food for thought.
Monroe Hardware LBT-149 1/2 X 4.00 4130 T-HNDL RAPID RELEASE PIN
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1/4 dia., 2.00 Grip Lg., T-Handle Quick Release Ball Lock Pins, Commercial Grade (1 Each)
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neat stuff, but it's a bit too sophisticated for this car!
A lot of those pins were "liberated" from aerospace/ aviation shops back in the '60s (and even earlier) and ended up in hotrods and race cars. Just because they are "high tech" doesn't mean they aren't period correct.
Fiberglass or carbon fishing rod tubes are quite good for stiffening , as a tube or sliced up the middle, cheap too.
I didn't say they weren't period correct, just that they're kind of sophisticated for this car...I tend to make a pivot by using a bolt, when I can.
Jim funny thing you mentioned a "bolt" Eddie Sanzo who had the A/GS 41 Willy's PU was nuts about weight, I know for a fact he drilled out the center of 1/4-20 bolts for use as his hinge pins. Keep it up, it's looking good.
Me too, though if you are looking to save weight a piece of tubing can work nicely in place of a bolt.
Thank you so much for taking us on this ride. As usual your threads are a ton of fun and full of great ideas. Really enjoyed the decrepit Chevy and the Corvair [stereo was killer!] adventure threads. I'm guessing your handle may have come form your work ethic. You sir flat get after it! Porsche used balsa on their super thin race car fiberglass stuff. Nice rigidity and of course light. I've had pretty good luck getting balsa cheap or free from the RC plane\boat guys who were "getting out of the hobby".
Those quick release pins are Hollow, thin wall and Hardened = very light weight. I think the alum. handle weighs more than the Shank. I get the visual thing where your taking the Project and understand. I'm doing the same program on my Roadster.
got the pass side door swinging. The latch works, the fit is ok, I need to do a little work reinforcing the hinges. And maybe fit some bushings to them?
progress... uh oh, looks like window gaskets soon
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