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Features all AV8 picture thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Chris, Dec 13, 2009.

  1. Elrod
    Joined: Aug 7, 2002
    Posts: 3,563

    Elrod
    Member

    I didn't modify the firewall in my coupe. A little trick you might want to use is to mate your stock Model A rear/torque tube up to your 39 trans and flathead block and then locate the motor mounts that way. Your block should clear the firewall. I'm using a stock Model A rear in mine and no cut firewall.

    8BA crank pulley is longer though and you may have problems with the fan and distributor being close to the radiator.

    Here are a few photos of my set up and you can see the full build in my link below.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]



    VIDEO FROM MAD FABRICATORS ABOUT MY BUILD

    <iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/64526402?title=0&amp;byline=0&amp;portrait=0&amp;color=ffffff" width="569" height="320" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe>
     
  2. aonemarine
    Joined: Nov 2, 2013
    Posts: 501

    aonemarine
    Member
    from Delaware

    When using the stock steering box location, is it completely necessary to off set the box to the left? Id like to keep my steering stock and not notch the frame.
     
  3. fmascioli2@gmail.com
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 54

    fmascioli2@gmail.com
    Member
    from CT

    Here you go. The steering box was not a problem. We used an F1 grafted to Model A sector shaft/flange as per Vern. Problem was the rear exhaust port which we had to flatten out. Even with grinding the bolt head to almost nothing, it still rubs when you gas it in a sharp turn.
     

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  4. fmascioli2@gmail.com
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 54

    fmascioli2@gmail.com
    Member
    from CT

    Don't notch the frame or offset steering to the left. If you're using a Model A steering wheel it's already too close to the door panel in original location. We lowered it which is easy to do before welding up the steering box. Just rotateyour mock up until you're comfortable. with the height
     
  5. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,751

    flatford39
    Member

    Thanks Elrod,

    I like what you did with the wishbone. Can you tell me what year that one is out of. I am also using the F-1 crossmember but I left my A center crossmember intact. Did you take yours out because you put the F-1 member further back??? I am using a 37 rear end with 39 backing plates.

    Thanks for the pictures.
     
  6. Elrod
    Joined: Aug 7, 2002
    Posts: 3,563

    Elrod
    Member

    I took the A crossmember out because it would interfere with the torque tube and I didn't want to cut it. It also is not necessary once you have the F1 crossmember in place.

    The wishbone is a 1932 wishbone.
     
  7. aonemarine
    Joined: Nov 2, 2013
    Posts: 501

    aonemarine
    Member
    from Delaware

    Thanks for the pic, man that is tight on the tube.
    Something tells me I might be converting to cross steer. Won't know for sure until I try to drop it in....
     
  8. Elrod
    Joined: Aug 7, 2002
    Posts: 3,563

    Elrod
    Member

    Reds headers makes flathead headers for different frame and steering box combinations
     
  9. fmascioli2@gmail.com
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 54

    fmascioli2@gmail.com
    Member
    from CT

    Are you using an 8BA or 49AB? Two different animals with respect to location, etc.
     
  10. aonemarine
    Joined: Nov 2, 2013
    Posts: 501

    aonemarine
    Member
    from Delaware

    I'm running a 8ba.
     
  11. fmascioli2@gmail.com
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 54

    fmascioli2@gmail.com
    Member
    from CT

    If you are using a stock Model A rear end and torque tube, you would end up exactly where we did and with the same problem. If you make the angle of the steering shaft steeper, you may be able to clear the rear exhaust port by being above it but you would likely be rubbing the lower rear corner of the head. Also, it felt uncomfortable to us when we mocked it up like that...steering wheel was too flat. If you are using a longer torque tube then you can move engine forward but then have to deal with previously mentioned fan clearance issues.
     
  12. Nitrobrother, I agree mate, I just thought you guys would like to see a definition of what a book in 1952 claims an AV8 was in the authors eyes as the question was raised about what constituted an AV8.
    My spin is an A frame with an A body and early V8 BUT that's just me.
    However any model A with a V8 no matter what chassis is used is by definition a AV8.
    All of the posted model A's in my eyes are by definition an AV8 and are all bitchin
    Whatever your view of the definition, if model A's are continued to be built to the style and standard as posted in this thread and if this thread continues to inspire and educate young guys to build their versions then it's well worth the trouble of posting
    I for one am very thankful for the OP in starting the thread and everyone else for contributing and sharing their knowledge of building these cars, the pictures alone are worth a thousand words
    Keep em coming boys

    Jay


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  13. aonemarine
    Joined: Nov 2, 2013
    Posts: 501

    aonemarine
    Member
    from Delaware

    I'm going to run a t5 and open drive banjo. Yes I know not "traditional" but I think it will make for a better driver in the long run. I can live with converting to cross steer, but an electric fan is out of the question. So is an electric fuel pump.
     
  14. Hey mad mechanic , thanks for the post of the a-v8 book , great info , any idea if it's available in reprint ? Also your right on with the definition of the a-v8 "tomato / tomata " " potato / potata " no matter how you pronounce it , it's all HOT ROD in my book !
     
  15. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    Thanks Mad Mechanic for posting the info about the book! It's available at amazon.com for $11,- plus shipping.
     
  16. What's wrong with the electric fuel pump? They are a lot older than you think. The Autopulse 500 was available as early as 1946 if not before and the 200 model I have seen advertised as early as 1927.
     
  17. aonemarine
    Joined: Nov 2, 2013
    Posts: 501

    aonemarine
    Member
    from Delaware

    Nothing wrong with them, but given the choice I would rather have a mechanical. My build is going to have the outside and inside appearence of a stock "A" but with the flatty nestled under the hood looking like its been there since the car was new. Thats why I would really like to keep the stock steering box so my headlight switch can stay where its at, but something tells me this may not happen.
     
  18. Elrod
    Joined: Aug 7, 2002
    Posts: 3,563

    Elrod
    Member


    That was also my intent. I wanted it all to look old or factory, so I used all old ford metal for the front motor mounts and trans mount. I didn't want to use square tubing for fear of it looking out of place.
     
  19. aonemarine
    Joined: Nov 2, 2013
    Posts: 501

    aonemarine
    Member
    from Delaware

    I want to see some more AV8's.......so here's a bump!
     
  20. Model A Mark
    Joined: Apr 30, 2008
    Posts: 1,267

    Model A Mark
    Member
    from dallas
    1. Holley 94 Group

    Heres mine..
     

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  21. Christom
    Joined: Nov 3, 2011
    Posts: 217

    Christom
    Member

    Okay - I'll play.....
    Here's my AV8.
    '30 coupe still using the original cowl tank; 59a flattie with twin 97's on an old Fenton; '39 trans; '40 rear; '40 wheels & firestones; '40 brakes; A steering box. No plastic, no billet, no T5, no electric fuel pump, no alternator, no electric fan (no fan at all actually) - and no mufflers! :cool:
    Is that a traditional enough AV8?
     

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  22. Christom
    Joined: Nov 3, 2011
    Posts: 217

    Christom
    Member

    I used the stock A steering box (upgraded with shorty pitman arm & needle roller kit) and A column etc.
    I lowered and moved the box back 1.5" and down a tad. This cleared the rear LH header pipe. Put in a column drop extension and shortened the column nearly 4" and fit a '40 steering wheel. With the stightly lower seat height (for roof chop head clearance) the driving position is real comfy. FYI I moved the front crossmember forward 1.5" for more room from Rad to firewall. ;)
     
  23. fonti
    Joined: Nov 28, 2006
    Posts: 486

    fonti
    Member

    ...that is traditional enough for me!! great coupe...
     
  24. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,123

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    I've posted before but here is the latest sedan project for my brother
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1389617260.743840.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1389617288.709243.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1389617310.842559.jpg


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  25. aonemarine
    Joined: Nov 2, 2013
    Posts: 501

    aonemarine
    Member
    from Delaware

    moving the box bown and back might help me out, but I am keeping the fenders and hood on this build so unless I stretch the hood a bit the cross member will stay where its at.
    Nice coupe, Im trying very hard to find something non traditional about it..and trying and trying..... A HA! found it, your exhaust pipe is made from Japaneese metal, so its not traditional :)
     
  26. slim's 49
    Joined: Mar 21, 2013
    Posts: 13

    slim's 49
    Member

    I have one question, new to this AV8, will a V8 60 HP. bolt in a stock model A?. with just a rad. change. Looking for the easyest route. thanks for any info. Jack.
     
  27. Yup, that'll do. Really dig the color.

    HRH: This is an awesome shot! With each iteration of these projects, you need to pull them out and shoot the exact same angle. (Prob'ly ought to post this image over on your '34 build thread, too!)
    [​IMG]
     
  28. steves29
    Joined: Jan 19, 2010
    Posts: 194

    steves29
    Member

    My dad and myself taking first test run. He remembers riding in this very A in 1955. Pretty cool.
     

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  29. Christom
    Joined: Nov 3, 2011
    Posts: 217

    Christom
    Member

    Oh no! Busted! :( The headers from Sacramento Vintage Ford were probably made in China too! OMG they'll have to go :eek:....
     
  30. aonemarine
    Joined: Nov 2, 2013
    Posts: 501

    aonemarine
    Member
    from Delaware

     

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