Technical Air/Fuel Ratio Wideband Kit

It was a 2 4bbl. I welded the to up and put three holes in it. I also reduced the plenum area so it would flow better on the street. All three 48,s are tied together no progressive


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I'm curious, and I'm sure this affects tuning -- why did you not make the carbs progressive? Just curious, not judging your choice.

 

Tying the three together was recommend by a few Stromberg pros here on the HAMB site.

It makes tuning so much easier. It's just like being a good father with triplets, whatever you do for one you have to do it for the other two also.

 

Could you offer some tip or tricks on reading plugs with today's gasoline? I would love to hear them it might save me a bunch of time and money.

Thanks Pal

 

I use a AEM afr to tune my blown 406 monster. A afr is aMUST with a blown engine in my opinion. Get one, learn how to use it, and tune, tune, tune. You will be glad you did.

 

Check out my results I have posted in THE INDUCTION THREAD. You may find it interesting.

 

I decided to go with the AEM 30-4110 and found a hell of a deal on Amazon for the complete kit to my door was $132 and change


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I haven't finished up installing my new AEM gauge been doing other stuff and it's still cold up here in the northeast.

There was comment on here somewhere someone chimed in that his AFM wiring was a bit more than expected. The AEM 30-4110 calls for a switcher hot wire and a ground, that's it. I hate wiring.


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I just wired up an Autometer one in my Model A, again with an analog dial gauge so it doesn't look out of place. Can't wait to get the new Stude motor fired up so I can start tuning.
The autometer one was a lot easier to install than the Innovative, it had a constant power, ign power, ground and dash light. There were two more for data logging that I just cut loose.

 

I’m running lake style headers and I was concerned about the sensor being so close to the end of the outlet.


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I called AEM and Sorensen (they are not Sorensen’s but was hoping for good info) both places told me it can’t be done. I hear that a lot and it really fires me up. It is hard to explain without pictures that the nose of the sensor is actually inside the end of the baffle. So I took a bunch of reading at different RPM,s and went to Home Cheapo and picked up a thin wall clothes dryer vent pipe and put it on the end of the header with a hose clamp. Took readings again at the same RPM,s I had logged earlier and the reading I got were pretty much identical. I can say exactly because the gauge readings bounce around a bit.

So I hope this will help clear this concern with anyone interested in doing the same.

For the Critics.

Yes I know the sensor is very close to the body and no it doesn’t interfere with the door at all. I’m running solid motor mounts so the sensor is not moving much or not at all.

Yes I know the sensor is is supposed to be mounted at 15 degrees pointing down so moisture doesn’t get into the sensor but I don’t have any moisture with being mounted where it is.


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I don't have much to add except to say the kit makers like Innovate do offer a clamp on style O2 sensor accessory device for temporary installation at the end of (conventional) full length exhaust.

I have heard these sometimes have trouble with false lean indication since they are so close to the open air. Maybe temporarily install some kind of extension or conventional exhaust for tuning is all I can think of.

edit: Which I see you have done. That should work. I think.

 

28 ford pu thanks for the tips, I'm just installing my A/F meter temporarily so I can jet the carb. I just made up a pipe that will replace the turn out on the header it has two 90* bends so it drops below the door. The directions that came with the kit said 18" behind the collector but did not say anything about how far from the end of the pipe. with my extension I'm at more than 18" from the end of the pipe so I should be good. I have not bolted it all on yet but maybe this weekend.

 

I also wondered about the 15 degree off of horizontal mounting of the sensor, and asked one of the younger co-workers who is experienced with off topic fuel injection systems. He said pretty well all the ones he's seen, and his own, were installed horizontal and seemed to work fine.