air fuel ratio gauge - which one ?

I have an autometer wide band sensor it has the wiring to hook it to a data logger. I payed 190 for it. I have used it to tune a tri power set up and a dual quad set up on two diffrent cars. I would say it is real close to being the best money I have spent since I started this hobby. I spent a whole summer last year trying to get the tri power right, using the A/F gauge it was done in about 2 hours. The dual quad took an afternoon trying to get the cruise where I wanted it.

I am sure that racers love them but you still need to get the stop watch out to get the final tune set.

 

By placing a stran of wire in port H (tranfer slot port) (there's two of them, just look at the pic in a mirror image for you first time guy's trying this, not you squirrel) one can lean the cruz A/F ratio. Just need to try differant gauge wire to get it where you want it.

By the way, I to want to try my hand at one of these gauges myself. So I to like this thread.

 

Yea, with the Holley then you have to get into emulsion tubes and air bleed jets....yikes

I like the holley with the power valve can be changed, and the accelerator circuit can be tuned. It is possible to get the cruise mode to 13.8/9 .. but need to fatten up accel pump.

The Q-jet has a part throttle adjustment, its hidden under a plug in the throttle body. Others, late 70's have a plug on the air horn, remove that and there is a part throttle stop adjustment. Part throttle on a Q- jet is easy to dial in. It's the accelerater circuit that is hard to tune.


Any air fuel ratio guage/meter is better than what we had back in the day.

 

care to explain how you tune the cruz with a power valve.

 

http://www.scirocco.org/tech/misc/afgauge/af.html

I would think there has to be more to it than this,
But theres a run down on building one.

 

http://www.scirocco.org/tech/misc/afgauge/af.html

I would think there has to be more to it than this,
But theres a run down on building one.

 

Best way to tune a carb, put her on the dyno and plug up the O2 sensor.

You'd be surprised how off you can be even though the plugs look good and she runs good.

 

AEM. I love mine.

 

lol. With nitro either the ground strap is there or it's not. Lippy

 

I played around with that, but when I got it lean enough at cruise, it was too lean at curb idle. There are some more holes I could drill or restrict, but I gave up and decided it was ok to keep running it as rich as it's been running for 20+ years

 

i had mine on a chassis dyno and picked up over one hundred horses at the tire. by playing with the a/f and changing blower pulleys and timing i got the eight strombergs dialed in. i was sold right there and then. since the dyno session i have put one on my car. i thought i had the car set up right. i hit the gas the car hauled ass. now it really hauls ass. better mileage to. i wish i had one years ago. best bang for the buck.

 

Say it isn't so

 

FAST dual channel here, worth every penny. With reliable info, you won't be afraid to tune your own carb. Doesn't take long to figure out if you are going in the right direction.

 

That's not what you want. That's basically the same circuit they use in all the cheap narrow band O2 gauges.
A wideband controller has some pretty sophisticated electronics in them. That's why they are not cheap.

 

We went down 2 jet size on the primary, changed the power valve to 8.5 from 6.5, and increased the power valve restrictions.

 

^^^^^ Jetting ?????

Ok!, that explains things better. No where in your previous reply did you mention changing jet sizes

 

Yea, tuning is fun if you can tell where your starting from.
Majority of it has been by seat of the pants and empirical evidence.

 

I have this unit in my turbocharged inliner, which was a BEAR to tune. It did a fantastic job! I cannot imagine tuning without it.

Boucher'

 

Have you seen this page?

http://108.163.194.210/~dbbpcom/dbbp/tech-tips/mm.html

Mark van der Kwaak has some info on making your own for about $20. I took it one step further and had some circuit boards printed. Now I can just add the components straight to the boards and make them in few minutes.

Here's a picture of what it looks like.



All you do is connect any one wire oxygen sensor and attach it to the header. I've shoved them up the tailpipe of motorcycles before. Once the sensor heats up, it starts reading accurately. If 1, 2, or 3 lights come one, you're lean. if 4 lights light up, your golden. Once you get above 5, you're running rich.

I have a bunch extra of these. I just sent Mr. van der Kwaak an email to see if he's ok with me selling these at cost. I'm just a computer guy that enjoys doing stuff like this. I promise I'm not trying to make a buck. I sometimes take things overboard though. I wanted a few for myself ended up buying material to make about 100 of these.

 

One wire is narrow band. No good for tuning.

Back in '89 I did weld a bung in the header and screwed in a one wire sensor. Hooked it up to a DVOM.
Pretty much was lean or rich, and did not help with tuning like the wide band.

 

Ttt
Maybe some more info

 

Interesting info here. I have been wanting to run one on both headers too in order to really dial in my cross ram intake (which runs both sides of the engine totally independently.)

 

Anything less is guessing, hoping, subjective, seat of the pants & chicken feathers and goat pee.

 

Bump

 

Once more

 

I just got a Innovate LM2 with the dual wide band and what we have used it already is mind boggling! Not cheap but damn well worth every penny. I am enjoying this tool!
It has the capability to be used with a supercharger and rpm readings with a laptop and graph it all, you can even drive the car and add a "G" meter for launches! Awesome!

 

On my non-HAMB'ish turbocharged car I've had the FJO wideband for about 6 years and it always works great; back when I got the FJO there were fewer proven reliable choices compared to today. Even though it's pricey I've always used the NTK O2 sensor since I used to run a lot of leaded racegas for high boost applications (relatively high that is, ~25 psi) and the NTK is/was without a doubt the most durable when exposed to leaded gas. Over that time I'm now on my 3rd O2 sensor but I retuned not long ago and now I'm using meth/water spray so I only run unleaded premium pump now and next time I'll get a cheaper O2 sensor.

If I was buying a wideband today I would get the NGK unit.