advice on buying a flathead?

So I found a guy that say he has a VERY good running 1952-1953 mercury motor he say it runs great and that I can go see it run if I want. He said he will let me pull a head or pan as long as I bring gaskets. he wants 1000 bucks Is it worth the money should I check for a merc crank or is it worth it anyway

 

If you can pull the heads and make sure its not cracked after you hear it run BUY IT merc. or not
A good block is not always easy to find. that engine is a bargain!!!!!!

 

If you pull a head off of it look real close at the head bolt holes closest to the cylinders. They will crack from those holes to the cylinder.

 

if it has a good block and you can hear it run, I would say do it.

 

Wow the price for used flatheads has certainly gone up!!! If he has recent receipts for a major over haul then I could justify a grand but to me a good running used flathead is no where near a grand. Maybe I'm just cheap (guilty) but a used running flathead is just one step up from a core engine to me. I guess I'm just just completely out of date.

 

X2 on what Tommy said.Why is it being sold? Check his radriator for rust and discharge from the overflow tube. Pull both heads and check for cracks. check to make sure it's a merc crank. check back of bearings for undersize markings,cause you will be building it in the near future. Good luck!

 

If it's a runner, listen to it run. Watch it's oil pressure. What is it cold and what is it at idle after it warms up? Carefully check the oil after it ran to see if there is any milkiness, i.e., coolant in the oil. Check the compression. What is its history and how well do you know the seller? Any receipts for work done?

I wouldn't just pull the heads off unless I suspected something. But if you do, cracks that run between bolt/stud holes in the middle are common and nothing to worry about. The death knell are cracks in the valves seats allowing coolant in the cylinders. If an engine ran well but compression wasn't so good, I would pull the heads to check for a burnt valve and note how much ridge is in the cylinders.

$1000 for a good running flathead is a good deal. $1000 for a flathead that needs a rebuild, no bueno.

 

most important! place for check cracks in oil pan rail...flatheads crack between bolts holes, were the pan meet block...in this case the block is good for junk...ask me how i now that???

 

I am in the same situation. I am looking at an 8ba that looks, runs and sounds great. Has good oil pressure. He brought it to a rebuilder and the gentleman pulled of the intake and oilpan and said it was a fresh rebuild. The rebuilder just tuned it up and adjusted the valves. Carb is rebuilt. They painted the motor and now its on a test stand. They never pulled the heads. If it has good oil pressure and compression and doesnt run hot could there still be issues? What is good compression? I am looking at spending $1500.00 and driving 7 hours for this engine. I just want to spend my money wisely. I am not sure if this is too much.

 

He said He needs a 200 dollar deposit to pull it apart and if we put new gaskets and it runs as it did before you get the 200 back if i dont buy it that is

 

so you're only out a little time...and the great thing is you can pull all that stuff without messin' with the distributor....

 

Listen to it run before he takes it apart. If you decide not to buy due to a crack or other problem do you want to pay him $200 for pulling the heads? What are the odds that a problem will develop if you back out?

 

ALWAYS pull both heads....Period ! Always drop the pan !! Flatmotor has 3 main bearings,...and if the center web is cracked, the block is garbage. However, if it does have the 4" Merc crank, buy it anyway, for a lot less than $1,000. You will then have the items you need when re assembling it, and not have to go hunting.

4TTRUK

 

I bought a fully rebuilt Mercury Flathead with Offenhauser heads, adjustable lifters and Holley 4 barrel manifold on here for $1100, and that was a bargain. I went through 4 other flatheads and all had cracks. I paid $500 for a bare block that had been magged and was crack free. So a 1000 is a good price if you can see it running.

 

time is money. if it is really crack-free and has 4" crank and bores are ok and crank journals are ok - -buy it $1000 is a fair price. you could spend months of your time and lots of your gas money trying to get a better deal. i know this firsthand. good luck...jack