This is my first attempt at setting the camber and castor in 69 years It appears that I need some sort of tool to separately pull each side on the upper A-frame. I have started fabricating one but, maybe there is a simple way to do it that I am unaware of. This is a chassis engineering crossmember with Mustang II parts. Thanks
actually they make the tools, OTC sells them ( #7010 - #7091 ) , mac sold them too # cc 624 you can find them on e pay every now and then ,
The original tools (Mac cc624 for example) require a hole in the frame which isn't there because the configuration is different. The OTC tools (at least with my feeble mechanical skills) have nothing to "pin" to that I can see. Thanks for your assistance, appreciate your taking the time to help!!
If you take the weight off wheel you can move little at time and tighten. Same amount on each side brings wheel out camber. What I look for is the top ball joint back little same 1/4" for caster and using a level on wheel vert with weight on car. Then do tie in.
You can always drill a 1/4" or 5/16" hole behind each slot. If you aren't familiar with the adjustment, scribe some lines behind the arm so if the arm slips, you can find your way back to being close to where you were. This is one of those best done on swivel plates with gauges expecially if you have to touch the caster again. Bob
I went ahead and finished fabricating a tool that was similar to the ones that I had seen online. I took a couple of three eights inch bolts and cut their heads off and then bent a U-shaped end on each of them and took a piece of strap iron and heated and bent it to follow the shape of the adjusting screw in the chassis. I welded a quarter inch bolt onto the strap so that it sat in the slot in the adjusting screw so the strap wouldn't turn as I tightened the adjusting bolts. The duct tape is to protect the threads on the ride height adjusting screws. It works and is cheap, just not pretty
He said what I was going to say almost word for word. I'm at work so I can't run out and take a photo of the stock one I have out in the stuff for later pile to show the holes and their location. It can be done on the car with the fenders and inner fenders in place without the tools but it is a royal pain in the ass to do it without the proper tools. If you can fab a bit you can probably make your own tools to move the A arm with out of a couple of bolts and some pieces of scrap metal out of the scrap bucket. Google OTC 7010 and you can probably come up with some ideas on how to do it. You will have to drill a pair of holes to the inside and a ways from the end of the slot to hook the tool in.
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