I have mentioned adjustable motor mounts on a few threads and have been ask about mine. So here is what I do to be able to set the engine in the frame rails to determine the size and style of the motor mounts and the position of the engine. I use (1" and 3/4") d.o.m. tubing, but regular pipe will work. Pipe does not mean conduit. I start by making the angle iron bottom that will set on the inside of the frame rails. 2" angle iron works well or you can make your own out of scrape plate. Then I make a set of half moon brackets that weld on the angle iron that will work as a pivot point for the 1" tubing. Then I take the 1" tubing and drill the piviot hole that will bolt to the base you just made. Next I over size drill a hole towards the top that will let a 3/8 bolt easily slide thru it. Next I weld a 3/8 nut over the hole we just drilled. This is the most critical weld, it will hold the motor weight. So weld it good so your bracket does not slide till your ready. This bolt locks the inside 3/4" tube in place. Next, take the 3/4" tubing which will slide inside of your 1" and drill another over sized hole for a 3/8 slide thru bolt. This will be the motor end of the tube. The other end slides into the 1" and the 3/8 nut and bolt will lock down against it to hold your engine in place. On the motor end of the 3/4" tubing, the single hole bolt can then be screwed into the mounting bolt holes of your heads. Or if there is no holes in your heads, you can make a 2 bolt plate with a half moon ( for the pivot mount) welded to it that will bolt to your front exhaust ports. I get my engine in position with the motor hoist, front to back and side to side and attach the motor mounts and lock them down. I leave my host attached so any adjusting can be done easily, them back of the hoist a bit to put the full load on the suspension. Never back of the 3/8 slider bolt till you have the engine suspended from the hoist !!!!!!!!!!! That could cause serious injuries and break stuff. So what you have done is, put a load on your front suspension so you can help set that, along with the carb angle of your engine, along with seeing how the engine fits your application before you ever start making of fitting your motor mounts. The Temp mounts should give you a clean unrestricted area to put your full time mounts. After I add the pictures, below them I will give my 2 cents on motor angle and 3rd member angle. These come into play while mounting your engine. <HR style="COLOR: #e5e5e5; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #e5e5e5" SIZE=1> <!-- / icon and title --><!-- message --> Like they say 40 yrs of doing it wrong don't make it right. That being said I have built cars for over 40 yrs with no major issues. Here is the short version how and why. 3rd member 3* up, the reason is that if you point it down the grease will pool at the seal and case a leak eventually. " Not the same for racing" Engine is simple if carbureted, with the chassis at ride stance "mandatory or changes will have to be made when it is a ride stance" put a level across the intake carb plate and set it flat square. Bubble up or down will equal a out of balance fuel bowl. The only real question when setting a engine up is how high or low in the chassis will the build except. I dig theories and discussion but to me all this is mute when engine or 3rd member angels are determined. Simple works best. <!-- / message -->
I'm going to make a set of these this weekend I think. This will help a ton with dialing in the oddball motor mounts for my build.
I welded some junk together to make this. The legs are threaded rod to level it front to back and side to side. Worked good and leaves the mount area open for fitting the real mounts. Blue
Thanks blasted Very neat idea, clean simple, quick, small and from stuff out of the scrap pile for most guys. I like blues idea too, and if you are setting a dozen engines a year something more like that would be the way to go.
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