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AD trucks done CHEAP!!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by NONAME, Mar 1, 2008.

  1. PoPo
    Joined: Jan 3, 2008
    Posts: 1,102


    not to sound like I dont know anything, but I DONT.. what do you mean by the uprights. Sorry my chosen career doesnt work with cars, its just a hobby im really getting started into now, but hey im 25 so im learning somewhat quick.

    Thanks for the patience.
  2. the spindles, 53-4 are 3/4 inch higher than 49-52 and will drop the front another 1 1/2 inches. I'm going to wait till I have the truck back together with front sheet metal. I'm not sure I need this work truck lower. I am going with the 54 brakes and a power booster,
  3. crs36
    Joined: Feb 17, 2008
    Posts: 67

    from Alberta

    So how about an update? Is it driving? How's it handle?
  4. 29nash
    Joined: Nov 6, 2008
    Posts: 4,544

    from colorado

    Good job. Keep on keepin' on.:cool:
  5. That's the coolest "clip" job I've seen yet.
    Joined: Dec 7, 2004
    Posts: 333


    Not to be pissy but a GMC is a New Design, not an AD. The GMC cross member is different. I am not sure if it will make a difference in what you are doing for the Chevy guys. Jay
  7. MCDANIEL1234
    Joined: Jan 18, 2008
    Posts: 102


    is this truck the one in your avatar and is the cab stretched?
  8. No it's not on the road yet. I'm building a set of headers to clear the ford ranger steering box.

    can't seem to get all my customers happy enough to allow me to work on my own stuff.

    the cab was extended 10 1/2 inches to fit the shorter utility boxes. it is getting close to be on the road. plan is to drive it to Bonneville in August

    I have the complete build on my website under "shop truck build"
  9. krackerdave
    Joined: Nov 26, 2009
    Posts: 18

    from mt vernon

    thanks for the info lookin forward to seeing it done
  10. fastcar1953
    Joined: Oct 23, 2009
    Posts: 2,574


    btt for updates? anyone else done this?
  11. just have to solve a rear brake problem. 6 years into a 6 month project. I've added disc brakes and a power master cylinder. just have to come up with the right backing plates for my narrowed 9 inch rear end.

    my thoughts are still the same. it's cheap, available, good parts supply. fits like it was made for it. gets rid of the straight axle and leaf springs. lower the truck over 8 inches. I have a total cost of $450 (brakes) I have vette springs and will have vette HD sway bar, gas shocks, radial wide whites.
    this has to ride and handle better than the stock truck. I still have under $2000 in the whole project counting the price of the truck. I don't think you could buy a decent Mustang ll conversion (that I wouldn't own even if I could afford it) for what I have in my whole build.
    If your on a tight budget it is a good option

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 13, 2012
  12. that truck look so nice! Congrats!?!
  13. thanks it looks like it is going to be finished soon. just like I said years ago lol
  14. just chopped a couple vent frames
    1, made a pattern of the door vent opening
    2.drew a line thru the top and bottom pivots, important if you want them to work
    3 & 4. drill or grind all the rivets dis assemble
    5. shape both inner and outer frame to the card board pattern
    6. my frames were rusty. I used statnless steel 47 mercury frames
    7 put it all back together and cut the glass

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 13, 2012
  15. the glass I'm using is almost certain to be 49+ state illegal but I'm only going to drive it on specal ocasions like sunday, monday, tuesday ect.
    it's tempered Bronze Reflective like thove gold mirrored buildings. don't ask I won't cut any for sale.

    Attached Files:

  16. I have all the tri-power linkage and fuel lines plumbed. I am not going to run the small Chrome air cleaners but haven't came up with a final plan. I need something water proof for the louvered hood

    Attached Files:

  17. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,682

    Atwater Mike

    Nice work...

    1. Did you mean 6 degrees NEGATIVE caster in an earlier post? (if that angle were to change to less caster with a forward rake, you must have meant 'positive', tops of spindles leaning 'back') Not to be a 'critic', but this is an important footnote.
    (I used to have to align F100s that other shops grafted on Mopar torsion bar suspensions. The position of the upper control arms forbade the caster to arrive at the positive spec: Negative caster caused extreme oversteer. One customer sold the truck rather than let his wife drive it)

    2. Great that you mentioned different lengths of spindles, and their respective years. GREAT lowering info!
  18. Kaad
    Joined: Nov 5, 2006
    Posts: 16

    from Denmark

    Hi there..
    I have red your front end swap topic and am about to do the same job (hopefully) - great POST!..
    Have found a 54 crossmember, but need to ask some questions to proceed - hope you'll be able to help me out a bit..

    -You used the steering unit from a Ford Ranger, do you have pictures of it mounted?
    -When you use that steering unit how does it fit with stock steering column/does it fit?
    -Do you need to clip the frame to suit the steering unit?

    Have seen one using the 49-54 Chevy passenger car steering column, but that requires a clip in the frame to clear space for the pitman arm.

    Do you have anything you would have done differently if you should do it again?

    Hope you have time to answer my questions, THANKS!

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