So, I sold my 48 F1 in May. Kinda decided it was more of a project than I wanted to take on just to have a "cheap" truck (it was a cool truck, but it pretty much needed everything). Anyway, I've been kind of keeping an eye out for a beater truck (that isn't a TOTAL basket-case) to play with ever since. So yesterday I'm hanging out with the guy that, well, is essentially my best friend (the dude who used to be my partner in the repo trade and my most dependable friend for the last 20 years, and who now impounds cars for a lot of local apt plexs). I'm telling him about how I'd like to find a decent mid to late 50's chevy pickup, and he says "I've got a 65 stepside at the lot if you want it". Apparently it's got a straight 6 & he's not sure if it's auto or 3 on the tree (I would think that it's more likely to be a standard). I think I can probably get it for a few hundred bucks, so despite the fact that it isnt EXACTLY what I was looking for, looks like it may be my new truck. Also, according to what I've seen in my very limited research online, I'm thinking that the motor is probably a 230, which I guess is not a stovebolt. I'm also thinking that if it doesn't start right up and run, or unless it's capable of running with very minor repair, I'll probably start looking for a 283 to throw in it (if I even buy it - I'm probably getting ahead of myself). Not that I have anything against straight 6's, but if a rebuild is necessary, it's getting an 8. I'm a big fan of the 283 for daily use (extremely reliable with decent power and good gas mileage!). So anyway, anything I should be looking out for here? Problem areas?
You can get replacements for most of the lower sheet metal, but watch out for rust in the eyebrow/visor area. That's a real common area, and you're on your own as far as fixing it. Stovebolt.com has a 60-66 buyer's guide that covers most of the basics.
theres also a relly good guide on the chevytalk 60-66 frum, by a guy named woogeroo.. he posts here to though... hopefully he will pop in... keith
watch out for rust, as they said. even "dry" trucks are usually rotted out at the rockers and lower kick panel area, and the back of the front fenders, also the inner fenders have rust problems where panels overlap. Bottom corners of the doors are quick to rust also. swapping in a 283 is a very easy bolt in. 235 was last used in 62, so it should have the "new" six.
I've also heard that the 73 - 80-something front end / brake stuff will bolt right up. Anyone here done this? And if so, are the disc brakes the main reason for the swap or are there other benefits?
the control arm bushings on the newer front ends are rubber instead of metal, less expensive to replace. Disk brakes is the big reason though. Also the steering box area of the frame is a bit different between the 60s trucks and the 70s-80s trucks, to put a power box on you have to do some modificating/adapting, but it's easier if you have the later suspension. beware the disk brake front end is 5 on 5" bolt pattern, drums are 6 on 5.5", and the rearend width changed in 1970 so later 5 lug axles don't fit the 65 rearend.
I've done tha later model brakeswap, its not a total bolt in but close depending on how you go about it. If you just do spindles there are a couple of adaptations get with me if you decide to and I'll let you know. If you do a complete crossmember its a little easier you have to drill a couple of holes. but you still have to make the pitman arm work of i recall. Look hard under the cab. to find this style cab with solid cab mounts is rare. I'm sure they built some 6 cylinders with a power slip but I haven't seen many that way. There are a lot more 6 cilinder 3 speed trucks around than anything else these days.
OK, update - I can also buy the rusted out late 70's / early 80's box chevy (impala / caprice) sitting next to the truck for another buck fifty or so, which has a 305 / th350 that he says runs perfect (and he's my boy and has never lied to me in 20 years, so I believe him). So, essentially I have the truck and the motor / tranny / etc. donor for about 4 bones. Yeah sure, I'd rather have a 283 4 spd, but fuck it. Some deals are too good to pass up. So, the way I see it, if I can buy this bitch and have her running for less than a grand, I'm stoked. And, a big thanks to pork-n-beaner for PM'ing me with some sweet parts vendos. MUCHO APPRECIADO HOMBRE!!! (and don't make fun of my "muy malo espanol" fuckers!!!!)
I feel ya SQ. I thought about that myself, and here's how I see it - nothing is written in stone. If it's a stick truck, I'll just find a sag 4 spd box and run that. If it's got a glide, I'll run the th350. Easy and cheap either way. Kinda like my boy MBL's Momma!! Yeah!!! Get some!!!! (I'm happy).
Squirrel the T350 swap is nothing on that truck. A piece of 1.5x3 tubeing bolted across the lower flange of the chassis for a tail mount and a driveshaft cut to length. My camera is down or I'd show you.
I've had two '66s, a C10 shortbed and a K10 van, both had 250 6 cylinder engines. If that is what you have be thankful and don't rush to swap it. They are great engines and with a little performance enhancement, a lot of fun. I drove both trucks coast to coast. If you swap it, save the 6 for another project.
Well, it's mine. $400 for the truck, and the rusted 79 Impala with a 305 4 bbl & th350 that fires right up and sounds smooth. The truck has some rust, the interior is somewhat disassembled, and it's definitely no creampuff, but shit, at 4 bills for the truck and the donor it's a no-brainer. Honestly, it's on decent enough shape that if it ran, I'd slap some new shoes on her, rattle-can the rough spots, and fuck it. Not looking to make a scraper out of it or anything. It'll probably sit a little lower than stock, have decent rims and tires (something simple and cheap). It'll definitely have a little flavor, but mostly I just want something for surfing, fishing, and running parts. I'm actually pretty stoked about this truck. Looks like the parts are pretty cheap too.
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