my 3-2 set up hauls and is ZERO trouble. Just set it up like GM did. Use the right end carbs. Lots of ladies put lots of miles on cars with 3-2 set ups without any hassels
I have them on my 57 Olds 371, but unless you are willing to risk lead poisoning, I better not catch you in my garage. <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
I agree, there's no reason that it can't work reliably and drive as well as anything else. My only 3-2 experience was with a 440-6 '70 Cuda over 30 years ago. The car was a few years old at that time. I rebuilt the Holleys and never had another bit of trouble out of them. The damn thing even got 15+ mpg on the highway too, unbelievable to me at the time. It never bogged, stumbled, leaked or anything. And when those two end 500 cfm carbs kicked in, hang on! It would literally fry the tires from a 70 MPH punch on any street tires. That was a damned fun car! Pure stock, the six pack Cudas were quicker than the Hemi ones.
You cant beat Webber's for driveability and performance in my opinion. Super easy for maintenance and tuning too. Too bad we're poor. Only setups I see are usually new, always big buck. Caution SBC porn http://www.inglese.com/Catalog/Inglese Product Brochure NG1816.pdf
Webers are awesome. Once you gain an understanding of the basics, there's really no carb that can compare. They're actually very easy to tune, simple and are quite efficient when done right. In a given model, you can even dial in the CFM within that particular design's range.
The setup on my 327 has '56 or 57 Olds J-2 factory tripower carbs on an offy manifold. You may find these a bit cheaper than other factory 2G tripower carbs, not to mention buying cores and then converting them to tripowers. These are a bit different from other rochesters I have seen. All three are front inlet 2G Rochesters but have a small 1/8 pipe thread fittings, and the center carb has a dome shaped vent, The good part is the end carbs already have the thicker butterflies with extended shafts, and no idle circuits.
I recently dialed in a set on a warmed over 65 GTO. Original carbs on a stroker motor. The 1st guy to set them up had all of them open way too early and the owner was complaining about drivability. If you look at the stuff for a few minutes it's really no big deal. So how did it run? The car can drive well over 70mph on just the center and you can feel the "stop" effect of the leading edge of the ends getting ready. Open em up and it was like passing gear in an automatic. Tons of power and makes you smile so big ya gotta turn yer head to finish it. I love tri power. Thought you'd like a pic...but don't hold the moroso covers against me...that's what the guy wanted. I think it needs some offys don't you?
Check this out. Ames performance (The pontiac guys) sell tri power linkage that is built for Poncho stuff...but after having dealt with many,many multi carb set ups, they are as easy to adapt to another carb set as anything else...and it actually works and looks "right" doing it. I would sooner staple my scrotum to a moving car than buy ANYTHING from C.P. Suffice to say my Experiences with his admittedly very pretty carbs has been less than positive. (Wow! That was alot of fire!) and finally, check out B.F.I.C. for end carbs-I'm talking about 2cg's, and 2g's here...but if you wanna make power and look good doing it, in my opinion, they're the way to go. 20 billion G.T.O.'s can't be wrong!
I agree with you regarding the 2gc's. I love my 94s, but I have often considered swapping for a set of leak free Rochesters. That nut thing was funny!
I'm building on a budget, and would love 3 deuces on my 38 but... how do three rebuilt carbs... carbs that are a dime a dozen used...cost $1000?? I guess carb. shop rates are $100/hr. You know that if I had the dough they'd be in a UPS truck as we speak...
Kits are about $20 each & do it yourself!! I have about $200 in my setup!!But i got the manifold cheap( $85) swap meet carbs & someone gave me one of them, i made my linkage( See my earlier post) And i made my outboards into secondary ones. I'll help ya over the phone & by e-mailing you pictures if ya want to call me let me know JimV
The only reason anyone would have problems from a 3-duece set up with progressive linkage is if they didn't use them and the fuel gets stale in the end carbs, Hell, Holley four barrels had the same problem.
I'm gathering the parts to put together a 3X2 setup for my 327 SBC. Could someone provide a copy of the Rod & Custom article for the carb conversion. I've picked up several Rochesters for parts so I can put together what I need. Still looking for an intake though. Any help would be appreciated.
i have a 3X2 sut up in my daily driver 65' chev trk.....283 bored 30 over and a nice mild next to wild Crower cam ....once it was dialed in I've had zero problems and still get 15 to 17 mpg depending on much I get into it....and yes i'ts hard not to get into it....oh and I got the set up from V speed ....the only problem i had with them was getting them on the phone to order the damm thing....after that ,I got it in the four weeks he said it would take.... and if your gonna run a fake tri power you might as well run one of them fake Blower or Hilborn set ups.....
I got my set up ready to run from vintage speed, sweeeeet http://www.vintagespeed.com/carbs.htm slacker
Ready for a SBC intake..simple and functional..Nothing fancy done to these all complete..Just tune them in.. Duane.
Chris talk to Reggie. He has 3 2GCs on the 34 he drives everywhere, I beleive he just closed the air mixture screws on the end carbs, been running several years. I have picked up Delco rebuilt stock 2GCs at Texas swap meets, bought 3 matching in boxes sealed in plastic for $160, next year bought 3 more $180, last time I saw him he was getting $70 each but his supply was drying up. He will probably be @ the Conroe winter swap next weekend, if you are interested PM me your phone #, if he is there I can call you & let you know how much he is getting now and can pick you up 3 if you want them.
I am trying to piece a setup together also .I don't know what the manifold is as the #'s are ground off. I'm useing 55-57 Pontiac carbs that a friend had. Kits thru NAPA were $15 ,linkage looks to be less than $30. The carbs I have are front inlet but it looks easy to get the lines on . The Carbs have a large piece that the linkage side hooks up on ,looks easy to adapt linkage.
You can use about any 3 carbs. Leave the center stock, and make sure that no air or fuel gets through the outboard ones when the butterflies are closed or at idle by either filing the butterflies so that when they're closed they're closed, and/or epoxying the bleeder screw holes. If you can get the outboard carbs to close tight enough, you don't even need to epoxy the bleeder screw holes. But remember, although this method lets you use any 3 carbs, it's trial and error, as those outboard carbs are an air or fuel leak waiting to happen at idle. ~Jason
the link works: www.vintakes.com/custom.html if it doesn't the try www.vintakes.com then click on custom page. this isn't rocket science, the hardest part is getting the 2 outer carbs to act right (seal) the linkage is cake. my friends model A, not pretty but it works. it was round bar stock, washers, a drill, a vice, a tap and a welder.
to far from me but this may help you guys. and if they are the carbs i'll take 3 thanks. http://slo.craigslist.org/zip/568548938.html
You know, how come nobody experiments with weird Carters? They're cheap enough to build, and almost free - if somebody could "crack that nut", so to speak, it could save a lot of folks some money...
Root, Issue #12 of Rod and Kulture has pretty good article on this conversion. Give me a call if you cant find it.. Its the one with the Rebel Reaper Willys on the front. GV
Its easy and does not have to cost a grip! Mine are from a 57' Olds and do have the proper end carbs with no idle circuit. It is way faster than the 4bbl and trouble free once its set up. All you need are 3 buildable cores which you can get cheap, and 3 kits. Its easy to block out the idle circuits on the ends by cutting off the tip of the needle then put some teflon paste on the threads put them back and viola. As far as vacuum leaks go you can use some thinned out jb weld and paint the inside of the base where the blades touch with it, let it become semi-hardened then make an impression by closing it and no more vacuum issues without using the thick and hard to find blades. Jetting is easy enough, typically the ends are a few sizes smaller and you don't need accelerator pumps or power circuits, the ends are slaves. Then you have the fun of tuning your progressive linkage by finding out where you want your secondaries to kick in, I do this by flooring it and adjusting after my runs.
O.K.... Here goes: I'm ducking already to avoid the pending shitstorm, but, I am not a carb genius...This has been on mind off and on...maybe I'm thinking bass-ackwards, but: Why NOT let it idle on all three carbs? bring the secondaries in progressively, with the linkage functioning properly, but, leave the idle circuits working, and adjustable, in the end carbs? Won't that negate any possible vaccum leak/lean problems if the end carbs butterflies don't quite fully close? Would you not have more even dispersement of air/fuel, at idle, than with only the center? somebody wanna 'splain?
Carburetors require a vacuum signal to operate properly; the stronger the better. Unlike fuel injection, carburetors must have a vacuum signal from the engine to flow fuel through the venturis. By using all three carbs you are in effect dividing that signal by 3. This is why carburetors are many times troublesome at low rpm's with big overlap cams. [low vacuum signal]
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