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Projects A on 32 rails

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Dustan, Dec 3, 2015.

  1. bigheadbaxter
    Joined: Feb 18, 2007
    Posts: 228

    bigheadbaxter
    Member

    Looking good. Your saw horses are making me nervous though


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  2. Looks like you're getting it knocked out . . . body work takes a long time if you want it straight. Just the amount of block sanding is hard to imagine. Take your time and keep up the great work!

    B&S
     
  3. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Ditto on the saw horses. They look scared to me, have had them collapse while doing wood work.
     
  4. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,228

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from BHC AZ

    Like the write up, keep it coming! One question (as I'm no expert)...... why the front and rear panhard bars on opposite sides? Heard years ago it's best on the same side.
     
  5. Thanks, while on horses if you look close you'll see I still have chain fall hooked up . Too much work to risk a fall.


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    bigheadbaxter likes this.
  6. Hmmmm , I'm obviously no expert either . No reason , Hope it works out ok . Where were you with that question a year ago ?


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  7. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,228

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from BHC AZ

    Only found the thread yesterday! I think the reasoning is if they're both on the same side, the arcs through the suspension travel will move the axles the same direction. If they're opposite, the front may move to the left and the rear to the right "turning" the car. Hopefully the more knowledgeable can set me straight.
     
  8. Got home from work , ran out to barn to check other car (27 t touring with A frame ) it also has driver side front panhard and passenger rear panhard and that thing handles like a dream ! May matter if a guy has more than the 3/4-1" travel that I have. Think I'll be ok . Thanks for the good input, I'll do same side on next one .


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    Last edited: Mar 17, 2017
  9. Dustan
    Joined: Oct 19, 2014
    Posts: 262

    Dustan
    Member
    from PNW

    looksgoodtome is getting to be pretty good at bodywork. I guess I have just been finding it hard to do bodywork all day and come home and do it some more! Once I get back into the groove we will get it knocked out faster! Excited to see it on the road.
     
    Looks good to me likes this.
  10. nunattax, Nailhead Jason and Aaron D. like this.
  11. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,052

    nunattax
    Member
    from IRELAND

    that's looking great wish it was in my garage bud
     
    Dustan likes this.
  12. Dustan
    Joined: Oct 19, 2014
    Posts: 262

    Dustan
    Member
    from PNW

    Well,finally got off my ass and the thing is all primed and ready to block then paint. I think it turned out looking pretty good! Just took way longer then it ever should have.
     

    Attached Files:

    bigheadbaxter and embyman68 like this.
  13. embyman68
    Joined: Sep 15, 2013
    Posts: 47

    embyman68
    Member

    Good to see the progress, looks awesome!
     
    Dustan likes this.
  14. Getting ready for Spring! Seeing you get to this stage is helping me get inspired and motivated as well. :)
     
    Dustan likes this.
  15. Dustan
    Joined: Oct 19, 2014
    Posts: 262

    Dustan
    Member
    from PNW

    Shouldn’t be much longer. The hard part is all done now.
     
  16. In primer, shouldn’t be long till it’s painted & sitting in place [​IMG][​IMG]


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    54reno likes this.
  17. Dustan
    Joined: Oct 19, 2014
    Posts: 262

    Dustan
    Member
    from PNW

    More block sanding...Of coarse block sanding cannot be done without proper lubricant
     

    Attached Files:

    Jet96 and wackdaddy like this.
  18. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    After that much lubricants every thing feels SMOTHER.
     
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  19. Dustan
    Joined: Oct 19, 2014
    Posts: 262

    Dustan
    Member
    from PNW

    Haha yeah I retired it for the night after that last one. It does feel pretty damn good though. A few minor spots to touch up then it will be wet sanded. Looking forward to getting that done and shooting sealer and paint
     
  20. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    It just takes time and elbow grease.
    I know block sanding can get very boring but that what it takes to get a good finish.
    What type of product are you using? I still like to do my blocking dry, I guess I an old school.
    Try primping a bare test panel and just seal another one and let them sit in the weather and see which one rusts first. I did not see what type of respirator you were using. Remember Isocynoates are cumulative in your body and it will build up to the point where you are sensitivities to it. I.E. your body never gets rid of it.
    I see you are using a paint suit hope you are using a fresh air system, or a really good respirator. I have seen too many painters who had to quit because they could not breathe.
    I just am conserved about your health. Frank
     
    jetdocmodelA likes this.
  21. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    That looks like NCP 270 you are using.
     
  22. Dustan
    Joined: Oct 19, 2014
    Posts: 262

    Dustan
    Member
    from PNW

    Yep I’m a bodyman by trade so I know all about the nasty stuff. I’m just using a Omni epoxy over all the bare metal,then a 2k sandable over that. Now any touch ups will be glazed and sprayed with 2k. Before I paint I’m shooting another coat of epoxy to lock things down. Just using a gerson charcoal canister respirator and a suit made by BASF I believe. Color will be shot with a SATA 4000 or Iwata LPH400.
     
  23. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Sounds like a good choice of guns, and equipment, I fell into a body shop in 1955 when I was13 years old. I always used a respirator, when I came back from Nam they had a new thing called bondo boy that stuff was hard. I grew up shooting DuLux then went to PPG and Glasurit . I like them both but predominantly use PPG products and I do like the newer light weight filler, it is more uniform to sand and not leave the hard rings like the early products. I will continue following your build it helps keep me motivated on mine. Frank
     
    34toddster likes this.
  24. Dustan
    Joined: Oct 19, 2014
    Posts: 262

    Dustan
    Member
    from PNW

    Just have to get on the mud before it gets hard ;) I really like this filler in the picture and the 3m glaze is great too. This stuff sands pretty damn good. Wish I was stuck at this place less so I could go home and work on the A!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 16, 2018
    1-SHOT likes this.
  25. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Both those products work great.
     
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  26. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,936

    LM14
    Member Emeritus
    from Iowa

    That's a JW chassis? Looks like a twin to a Pete and Jake I just got!
    SPark

    PJ11.jpg PJ17.jpg exh28.jpg PJ10.jpg
     
    Dustan likes this.
  27. Dustan
    Joined: Oct 19, 2014
    Posts: 262

    Dustan
    Member
    from PNW

  28. Tim_with_a_T likes this.
  29. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,693

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Is the T in the foreground going to be the same color?
    I usually work on my project the first thing in the morning for a couple hours before I go to work , that way I seem to get more done on mine and some times I stay late at work to finish a customers car I am too tired to work on my cars.
    Goes back to the old saying pay your self first. I.E. save something for retirement.
     

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