Technical A Kid's First Project: 1957 Fairlane 500 Town Victoria.

Mine looked much the same, gave it a soak in evapo-rust and made a rubber gasket for it, it works and cheap. Just make sure it is venting or it may cause other difficulties

 

But the tank has a vent?

 

If the tank itself has a vent line, no problem, lots of older vehicles used the cap for a vent

 

Also, the rear axle is low on fluid, and i figured i would flush it, the fill hole was simple enough, 3/8 socket. The drain seems to be a 5/16ths square? I have no idea where to get a 5/16ths ratchet or breaker bar.

 

Coupes and sedans. Non vented cap is ok.
Rancheros and wagons. Vented.

 

Now all the lights work... other than some dash lights, and im working on the wheel cylinders, 3/4 done!

 

I used a 5/16" lathe tool bit blank and a pair of vise grips to get mine out. I replaced it with one that takes a hex key.

 

Believe it or not, there is a tool that looks like a Dog Bone with multiple size nipples on it used for generations in Service Stations designed just for removing the Square end plugs. Not hard to find at Swap Meets if you know what to look for. Amazing how the simple things Age Out.

 

Will definitely need to get one of those... too bad i have no idea where the next swap meet is, other than maybe swappers day in Fredericktown...

 

I have not seen one of those in eons, the 1st place I'd look would be eBay.

 

Maybe a little time on a bench grinder on a 3/8ths extension would work?

You won’t be taking much off, so steady hand time

 

Or you could just use Google. You might be surprised what all pops up. Us car guys should know by now there's a tool for near everything right at our fingertips, Oh and the Visa card.

 

Another thing to note... the axle still has red primer underneath the dirt and slag... very nice condition, also cleaned the vent and splitter.

 

Getting backing for door panels...
I should have brought a truck.

 

Also, thanks @Lloyd's paint & glass for telling me what is best for door panels.

 

Got a friend in a machine shop? Mill 4 flats on a short piece on any steel rod around 7/16" or 1/2" in diameter would be fine. Make one end as 3/8", the other 5/16" to fit the plug.

Using a 3/8" ratchet, fit that with a 3/8" socket/allen key. Put another 3/8" socket over the allen key. Put the newly milled 3/8"square end of the rod into the back of the other 3/8" socket. Then you can get the drain plug out. Go to Ace Hardware for a newer style one, it is a standard pipe thread.

 

Went ahead and got one of these, its a split investment between me and my dad, nothing quite like sharing tools!

 

Goes to show there's always the Hard way to get a job done. Nothing new there.

 

How to tell us you know nothing about a quick-and-dirty 10 minute machine shop job without telling us you know nothing about a 10 minute quick-and-dirty machine shop job.

 

I have oil pressure! I was messing with it, and oil was flowing through the rocker shaft

But, it has some blowby out the oil fill and road draft, hoping its due to stuck rings that will free up as it runs.

 

Now that is some Funny stuff right there! Thank goodness we all find a way to get things done.

 

Are flowmasters allowed on the hamb?
Anyway, i stuck a leftover muffler on it, sounded better than just a Y pipe. Or is it a lower case h? Who knows.

 

Good deal!! Take and dump some Sea-Foam or GM Top Engine Cleaner into the cylinders and let it sit for a day or two. Then crank the engine over with the plugs out. Put the plugs back in and start engine and let it warm up. With engine rpm at around 2000-2500 rpm dump some more through the carb. It will be a huge smoky mess. But if there is a chance the rings will free up this will do it. Run engine atleast 2000 rpm until smoke clears up. I prefer the GM Top Engine cleaner myself. Had good luck.

 

Heres my custom door panel backing, i will be applying the original vinyl to it for simplicity.

 

If it works, it works, old radiator hose apparently works just fine!

 

Sounds like an old Super Stock with a bad carb. When do we get to see it go and stop?

 

Soon... the line going to the rear is giving me quite a bit of pain.

 

The engine sounds well considering it sat for a long time.

 

The rear line is ripping me a new one its dropping stuff in my eyes, and breaking as i try to remove it, should i just "wing it" and cut this one, then run a new line that way rather than match it? Because there is no way im getting either line through pre bent.