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Projects A Fordor Project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by mosimpson, Dec 10, 2006.

  1. 35mastr
    Joined: Oct 26, 2007
    Posts: 1,899

    35mastr
    Member
    from Norcal

    Looks great. Its nice when they start getting to the point that you can put them back together.
     
  2. lazy j
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 42

    lazy j
    Member

    Man you've given me so many great ideas for the '30 fordor I just picked up. Im so jealous of your planning, fab and welding skills! Thanks for all the great pics and keep up the great work!
     
  3. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    Here are some pics of the restraints I made for the air tank. I took some sst. band clamps and small dia. tubing to make the ends. Welding the thin strapping material was fun. Here are the pic's:

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    This pic shows the one end of the strap restraint. I have some thin sst. strap welded to tubing then some small flat bars to create a double link. Everything is held together with a couple of #6 shcs.
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    At the other end of the strap restraint I have the gizmo shown below. To the sst. strap I welded a piece of angle with a hole in it. The bolt shown has been replaced by a piece of all thread and nut to give me lots of adjustment. The all thread is screwed into a piece of round bar with a threaded hole in it. This round bar is slid inot a tube with a slot in it to allow it to pivot.
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  4. lazy j
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 42

    lazy j
    Member

    Hey mosimpson, I have a complete '30 fordor just like yours that I plan to do a pretty similar build with. You think I should pull the body off and put it on a platform like you built or should I take advantage of it still being attached to the original frame-while I work on replacing the wood and doing the chop on the body? I plan to build my own 2x4 frame and chanel the body 4" also. Since you've been through all this already, maybe you would be able to tell me which would be easier in the long run. Thanks,
    Jeremy
     
  5. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    Jeremy I definately think the platform is worthwhile. It accomplishes several different things for you. It provides a solid base while you are chopping and upgrading the body structure. You can use wood screws to fixture body parts securely in place while you replace interior wood or fabricate steel reinforcement. It also provides support for the frame while you are fabricating and laying it out. I upgraded to a thicker top with a white melamine surface that was nice for making notes and alignment marks. I can't imagine building the car without the platform.
     
  6. lazy j
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 42

    lazy j
    Member

    ok thats what I needed to know- thanks! I'm glued to your build, so be sure and keep us up to date!
    Jeremy
     
  7. Gotta love those Fordors.
     
  8. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    Here is a little project I am just wrapping up for the car, the battery box.. It's a little out of sequence, I had been working on the rear floors but don't have time to make that post today. This box is designed to fit an Optima red top. It was a chance to practice my metal forming and use my dimple dies. Anywhere here are the pic's I managed to get of it as it was built:

    The box flat before corners were cut out:

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    Here is the almost finished product:

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    I'll get a shot of it with the battery in and add it later.
    Here they are:

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    Last edited: Sep 18, 2010
  9. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    In a tribute to BilletProof I rolled the car out of the garage for a photo shoot. Well actually I needed to clean the garage around where the car has been sitting for the majority of the past 3 years :D. Anyway here are some pics of the sedan.

    The first four are with the chassis aired all the way up:

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    This set of four pic's is with the chassis aired out:

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  10. lazy j
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 42

    lazy j
    Member

    Lovin it man! So are you able to air up the rear bags high enough to be able to fully open the rear doors?
     
  11. GaryB
    Joined: Dec 19, 2008
    Posts: 3,529

    GaryB
    Member
    from Reno,nv

    beautiful work, how much air do you have between the ground and the body?
     
  12. 42 chevy
    Joined: Nov 1, 2006
    Posts: 623

    42 chevy
    Member

    Real nice. I love it.
     
  13. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    [QUOTE=GaryB;5662508]beautiful work, how much air do you have between the ground and the body?[/QUOTE]

    Thanks. It is 6" at ride height

    So are you able to air up the rear bags high enough to be able to fully open the rear doors?

    Thanks J. No the rear doors are more like access panels. The idea is to unlatch and then pull the hinge pins when you need to access the removable sheet metal panels inside the car at the rear kick up.
     
  14. Mac30
    Joined: Oct 8, 2008
    Posts: 274

    Mac30
    Member
    1. S.F.C.C.

    This is a real awsome build! I am doing a simular build with a tudor. Keep the progress coming.
     
  15. Foppa
    Joined: Aug 18, 2008
    Posts: 168

    Foppa
    Member

    Car's Lookin Great. Awesome Fab.
     
  16. 76cam
    Joined: Sep 30, 2010
    Posts: 643

    76cam
    Member

    Man that's nice.. Wish i had youre mad fab skills.
     
  17. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    I needed an electrical subpanel for wiring the air bag solenoids and controller. Real estate is at a premium on the chassis so I had to get somewhat creative. First I mocked up the shape of the panel and laid out the components that it would carry. I used a piece of panel board as a mock-up piece while I searched for a home for the panel. Here is what that looked like:

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    As I searched for a place to put the panel, I kept coming back to the chassis kickup area. This seemed like a good place since I had put a removable panel in the floor in this area. I trimmed the panel up to make it as small as possible. Here is what the mock-up panel looked like after going on a diet:

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    I made some standoffs out of some hex steel stock. I put male threads at one end so I could utilize the threaded mounts at the solenoid plate to mount the standoffs. The other end was tapped to accept a bolt. Here is a pic of the panel mounted to the chassis:

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    And a couple pics with everything mounted:

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    I ended up having the aluminum plate black anodized to make it match the frame :D.
     
  18. crotex
    Joined: Apr 19, 2010
    Posts: 561

    crotex
    BANNED
    from cuero, tx

    very cool build, keep the pics coming!
     
  19. 35mastr
    Joined: Oct 26, 2007
    Posts: 1,899

    35mastr
    Member
    from Norcal

    Looks good. Waswondering what happend to this build. Glad that you are back at it.
     
  20. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    Back at it??? Just cuz I'm a slow builder doesn't mean I'm a no builder.:p
     
  21. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    I bought two aluminum bomber seats from Speedway. For seat belts I purchased 5 point Simpson Harnesses from Summit. The next challenge was to build some seat mounts. I decided to build a tubular structure out of 1.25" dia. tubing to mount the seats and harnesses. I used double shears tabs from a&a mfg. to mount the harnesses (http://www.aa-mfg.com/pdshop/shop/ ). Here are some pictures I took during the fab:

    Fabbin the seat frame
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    Partially done seat frame in the car
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    Seat, frame & harness on workbench
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    Shot of tube end cap I got from A&A
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    Closeup of frame with end cap welded in
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    This shot shows the cutout I made in the seat for the lap belt
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  22. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    A ran brake lines on the chassis recently. Not the easiest thing to take pictures of but I do have a few. My brake lines are 3/16 steel with AN fittings. Here are a few shots of what they look like:

    Chassis front:

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    Hard line on the Ford 9":

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    I have hanging pedals mounted to a tubular structure in the cowl of the car. I decided to run hard lines out the master cylinders to three bulkhead fittings mounted to the floor kick board. On the other side of the floor I jumper to the hard lines on the chassis with some flexible stainless lines. Here is what the hard plumbing at the master cylinders looks like:

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    [​IMG]
     
  23. GaryB
    Joined: Dec 19, 2008
    Posts: 3,529

    GaryB
    Member
    from Reno,nv

    gettin'er done lookin good
     
  24. Doctor Detroit
    Joined: Aug 12, 2010
    Posts: 1,018

    Doctor Detroit
    Member

    This is a badass build thread. Nerd question --> What cad system are you using?
     
  25. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    We use Solidworks, a 3D PC based system at work. Just upgraded to Solidworks 2011. Speaking of nerdy, keep an eye out for a post from me this week using state of the art engineering tools for building a hot rod. I know not everybody has access to these type of tools, but I think everybody can appreciate the results. I thought it was the coolest thing ever when I saw the results!! :D
     
  26. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    The chassis was finally ready for the motor. So today I retrieved it from my brothers garage and installed it. The pictures tell the story, but I will add the gantry crane I built a year ago sure made it easy.

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  27. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    Built some lake headers for the car. Started with a kit from lakeheaders.com:

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    Spent some time trying decide where I could place the header relative to drag link:

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    Decided to shoot the megaphone down below the drag link. With that decided I started with the front most tube to establish the angle of the megaphone. Then moved to the last tube to establish the distance from the cowl. There are several good threads documenting this process. Here is what the headers looked like as they took shape:

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    Once I had everything tacked up on the driver side, I proceeded to make the mirror image for the passenger side. I clamped the two headers together and established some measurement points on the welding table so I could create a mirror image of the tacked up drivers side:

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    After I had two duplicates tacked up the only thing that remained was finish welding and grinding for a nice finish. I will mention I also welded the inside of the tubes to the header flange. Here is what they ended up looking like:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  28. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    Decided to put the car in epoxy primer last year. Holy smokes that stuff is expensive, nearly $500 for primer!! Here are a bunch of random pictures showing the progress. As you'll see, I used a cheapo Harbor Freight gun and shot everything in the driveway.

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  29. Don's Hot Rods
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 8,319

    Don's Hot Rods
    Member
    from florida

    Mo, you have no idea how much I like seeing your Fordor coming along so well. You have done some really nice work on it and it looks like you are getting close. :D

    Bet you are getting excited.

    Don
     
  30. mosimpson
    Joined: May 29, 2006
    Posts: 271

    mosimpson
    Member

    Glad you're enjoying the build Don. This whole build is all Dan's fault :). However I have no intentions of converting it to a RPU anytime soon!:D Here's a few pictures of the parts all put back together:

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