Technical A few quick (3) Shoebox Questions

Trying to condense a few smaller questions into one post so I don't bother everyone with my incessant questions - which seems to happen more often than I'd like since I'm working on this solo and don't personally know anyone with this kind of expertise.

1. Working on replacing parts of the floor. Looking at the drivers-side toe board - specifically where the pedals come through. There are screwed-in plates that surround the area where the pedals come through - are these just for structural support around the holes or do they serve another purpose? Are they necessary to preserve and reinstall? Here's a photo:


2. Replaced one rocker and getting ready to do the other. What's the standard finishing procedure for the seam between the rocker and the pillar? Don't mind my globy welds, but that's the area. How is that eventually finished for a nice clean look? Body filler? Seam sealer?


3. My rear tires - there is a significant difference between how far the tires are inset from the quarter panel. On the left side there's about 2.5-3" between the inner quarter panel and the tire, and on the right side there's probably less than an inch. Is this an alignment (camber) issue? Is the axle not centered properly? Body panel issues?

Thanks all for your help.

 

The plates around the pedals hold a rubber sheet that has a tight fit against the pedal, keeping the big stuff from under the car off the bottom of your carpet. The floor is "structural" in keeping your feet in the car, there are floor braces right behind the pedals.

There is an aluminum plate that goes on each side over the rocker. Holds down the edge of the carpet on the inside. I would clean those welds up a little, but they just get painted and you can't see that area with the door closed.

I don't have any idea on the axle/tire issue. Some pictures underneath would help, but I'd look at how it's centered, bent springs, etc.

 

Please post a pic. of that rear axle if you think there is a camber issue......I for one would enjoy seeing that.

 

I will try to get a picture of the rear axle - small garage and the car isn't currently mobile so I'll see what I can do.

 

Do you have matching wheels on the back with the same backspacing?

 

I tried to take some pictures. One showing the entire rear axle and then I tried getting a picture of each tire from directly behind to show what looks to me like some sort of camber issue.

 

Just a note. I put larger rear tires on my '51 (225/75R15) and while I had plenty of clearance on the passenger (right) side, the left side occasionally hit the fender lip. I thought I had an assembly issue, so I tried a lot of things : loosened everything up and shook it around to get things to "settle right". After I tightened it back up, same exact problem. I then switched the springs side for side; same problem. I switched tires and wheels, same problem. Nothing I did worked. I think that maybe they were just made "cock-eyed" (except mine is "off" the other way from yours). With anything but real large rear tires, you'd never know. I liked the tires, they balanced out well, and I liked the look, so what to do? I am ashamed to admit it, but I carefully trimmed about 3/16" off the inside of the driver's side fender lip.

I have owned this car for over thirty years and am familiar with it since it was new. As far as I know and can see, it has never been hit, certainly not hard enough to tweak the frame this badly. The car also drives and tracks perfectly.

After seeing your last post, I should tell you my car does not have lowering blocks. If it were mine, I'd remove the blocks, bolt everything together, and see if you have the same problem. I would think that if the rear axle were bent badly enuogh to give you this kind of camber problems, the rear wheel bearings would last about a week.

 

Are yoy sure the wheels are against the drum , looks like maybe not.

 

Right side sure looks to farther away from the spring. Wheel backspace or possibly has an adapter or spacer? Pull the rear wheels and get a tape measure.

 

I'd loosen those ubolts and see if they're equally spaced left and right, then retighten them. Camber in a solid axle is a broken axle.

 

I would put some shorter lowering blocks on it.

 

Regards (3. rear axle) I've found the body can be off to one side a bit on shoeboxes--possible manufacturing slop causing tire cheek rub on one side during cornering body roll, particularly with wider tires or a 8" rear swap. The shoebox body tapers in toward the rear reducing cheek clearance there. Like Tubman, I too carefully trimmed the lip a bit at rear of opening plus had to select tire size considering bulge on a 15X6 rim with 3-3/4" backspace. You may consider replacing the old rusty leafs with new 3"-de-arched, "super-slide" springs from a vendor for improved ride, and losing the tall lowering blocks--which act as levers between frame and axle contributing to roll. With springs hung, center the axle under the frame/body and slot one or both locator holes in the axle pads to slightly fudge rear axle over to match the springs, ensuring all is bind free. It may not be perfect but close.