Hey fellas, I have a few dual point distributor questions. I've been running a Mallory dual point in my 56 Pontiac for a few years now with no problems, but it's starting to hint at some issues. There's a real slight miss at idle and almost feels like a little bit of a miss on the highway. So far all I've done is clean the points, cap and rotor and change spark plugs. It's a Mallory 2558001 mechanical advance by the way. One set of points looked pretty good. The other set, the contacts are misaligned vertically. How do I adjust that? Wanted to lube things up while it's open. What should I use? I have some good dielectric grease that we use here at work on the jets. Would that work? How much and where all should I put it? Is dielectric grease ok for where the plug wires exit the cap and the plug ends too, or should I be using something else? was looking into new points, rotor, and condenser and found a few kits. Mallory part number 25402 (I think) is listed as the points part number. Also listed is 25402X, a "high performance" points set. What is the difference? The kit I was looking at says "good"......does that mean poor quality? It's Mallory parts, but about 1/3 of the price as the other kits. Regarding the condensor, does it need to be the Mallory one? Also, can't remember how I set this thing up. The tech sheet says 26° dwell each set of points, and 29° overall. How do I measure each and overall? As far as advance goes, how much should there be total and is there a way to measure that and the curve without a distributor machine? Total advance is adjustable on this distributor, and adjusting the curve requires new springs. Sorry for all the rookie questions! Thankfully it's been running great long enough that I can't remember how to maintain and set the thing up!
they used to sell distributor cam lube, I have an old tube somewhere around here. It's not the same as dielectric grease. To check the dwell of one set of points, put a piece of paper between the contacts of the other set of points, and use a dwell meter to see what the dwell is. To check the timing advance curve, connect a tach and a "dial back" timing light, and check the timing at various RPM (with vacuum advance disconnected, if it has it). write down the numbers. If the contacts are not pitted or worn badly, you might as well just keep using them. you dont need to use a Mallory condenser...the condenser kind of needs to match the coil, as they make a tuned RC circuit, and having them match will help the points last a long time. you could put dielectric grease on the ends of the plug wires, but it's not necssary, and probably will just make a mess as it will collect dust.
Awesome Squirrel! Thanks man! So how do I fix that contact alignment issue? As for matching the condensor to the coil, how do I know the capacitance of my coil? It's a chrome one somebody gave me years ago with no labels or numbers. Kind of worried I'd fry my good meter checking capacitance with it! So checking dwell, I can block the secondary points to check the primary set. So hypothetically, I dial in the first set and the second set is off......adjust those the same way. What if total dwell is still wrong after that? If I understand correctly, that can't really be adjusted separately because the secondary set is mounted a fixed number of degrees after the primary set, right? Not sure why I'm over thinking all this so much.......I'm the same way with the electrical system on my Triumph since it's positive ground. I know it works the same, but it feels like I'm doing it wrong! Thanks again for the advice so far! Johnny
The vertical alignment...see if it looks bent, if so, you might be able to bend it back. Play with the point gap, and see what it does to the dwell. you should be able to get it to where you're happy with the numbers. Or if you're not, get it to where it runs ok. A stock replacement condenser for a typical 1960s GM should work well enough. Usually a chrome coil was just a stock replacement coil, with a fancy cover, for the folks who were into looks.
yeah, it's worth replacing the condenser first. And keep another spare. Or two. They don't make them like they used to.
From my many years of selling Mallory,I think you may have transposed the part number for your points...25042 sounds like the proper number,,not 25402 and yes the X is Heavy duty
The x points have extra tension. Made for higher rpm and they wear faster. That's what I found. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Been running a Mallory dual point for 15 years. Was always a bitch to work on it between the firewall and the blower. Very little room to get hands and tools in there. Had the blower off in 2014 for a rebuild. At that time I replaced the points with a Pertronix unit. Idle is smoother, response is better, and even with two 650 Holly's on the blower, mileage is just a bit better. Best of all, no more trying to fiddle with points, and it still has the old timey look. And, yes, I realize the question was about dual points. Just wanted to let the OP know he has a choice.
Affirmative Dean I get the whole HAMB thing about "period" components (up to a point), but sometimes chasing that rabbit can get a bit tiring. Unless it's an HEI, just about any distributor can be made to look "at home".
IF (and that's only an 'if') the Mallory was a Y-L and had an 8 lobe cam, the Pertronix goes right in. But what about the X-L, with the staggered points and 4 lobe cam? Is there a Pertronix that is 'split' (2 levels) that will fire all eight? Not attempting to hijack thread either, but it would be a viable question regarding the OP's options...
My Mallory dual point at times would jump spark to the cap clips . had a miss under load and one night saw the spark jump out of upper piece of cap . New cap didn't help guess it was hi output coil that was cause.
Not really , but the vette cast iron units have become cheaper etc, they seem to run the good cam and offer some high rpm.....
If your Mallory points are anything like mine were (modern crappy imports), then I suggest you find a set of replacement Echlin points. My Mallory points would never line up squarely. In the end, I swapped in a Pertronix plate, but the plate with the Echlins is in the trunk in case they're needed.
They still make distributer cam lube, I have a large tube of Delco in my toolbox as we speak. You should be able to buy it at any legitimate parts house, or from the local dealership. if you are at the Ford dealer its going to be called autolite, I don't know what the brand name at the MOPAR dealership would be. But if you ask for distributer cam lube that'll get it for you. You can't buy Mallory points anymore they are none existent. I always used or use Echlin Platinum points in my Mallory distributers. As for vertical alignment you just have to give it a look and see why it is not lined up. A slight miss is also indicative of a worn or wearing bushing. It is normally the bottom bushing and I had to make my own 5 years ago for the one I run. If it is worn you need to address it, if not you will be replacing the distributer gear too. Remember Mallory no longer exists. Replacement parts are very hard to come by and you need to take good care of the ones that you have.
Yes, Mallory was bought up by the same company that bought up MSD and Accel, and has been dismantled. I think Echlin made the points Accel used to sell.
Thanks for the replies! I read somewhere that distributor lube is nothing more than over priced dielectric grease......is that true? If I can figure out what's causing the misalignment, doesn't look like I NEED new points, but if I were to buy the Eichlin points, anybody have a part number? Do these "bolt in" or will I have to modify anything? I don't mind the suggestions for going to electronic, and glad it's working out for you guys, but I'm gonna stick with points. Not for the traditional factor as much as in case of failure. I figure if one set of points fail, I can limp home on one set. To my knowledge, if an electronic unit fails, I'll be calling a tow truck. Also, I've heard that electronic requires a certain minimum voltage, which is higher than what is required for points to work. If my generator fails, again I can limp home. Maybe I'm a little off in my assumptions, but I really depend on the reliability of my car and being an aircraft mechanic makes me always lean toward the option that provides the most redundancy in case of the failure of another component. One more question.......as for timing lights, are there any to avoid, or are they all sort of the same? The timing light I have now doesn't have an advance knob and is a pretty cumbersome flashlight looking contraption that plugs in-line with a spring. Again, thanks for the replies! Johnny
Timing lights mostly work....it is nice to have one with a dial or display, so you can see what the advance is at higher rpm. And with a clamp on pickup, instead of the spring. I still have one of those old ones, from the 70s, but I don't seem to ever use it. I can't recall ever being stranded with a point ignition, but I have with electronic. On second thought..there was that one time, the condenser went out in the 67 plymouth...so, bring a spare condenser with you.
Dean Lowe these days you have your choice between Kool Aid or tin foil. Red pill or blue pill. The last tube of distributor grease I bought was 79 cents and that was 25 years ago. You only need a dab smaller than a match head, a tube will last forever. I don't know what you mean by overpriced. I don't know why you couldn't use regular grease or white grease but you must be sure it does not get on the points. So just use a little dab.
Points contact is adjustable by bending the arm and stationary point. Any old flat rate artist should have those tools.
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