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Hot Rods A catastrophic failure

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by deucendude, May 29, 2017.

  1. Jimmy2car
    Joined: Nov 26, 2003
    Posts: 1,707

    Jimmy2car
    Member
    from No. Cal

    I think Stimpy has it figured out. Should have used Ford rods.
     
    X38 likes this.
  2. Gray Ford
    Joined: Oct 18, 2008
    Posts: 491

    Gray Ford
    Member
    from Illinois

    It might be my imagination, but the residue in the pan, ( not the broken parts), looks awfully "dark" or "dirty" for only having traveled approx 50 miles....As others have asked, was the pan removed prior to the install?? Are there any other signs of contamination in the engine ?
     
    alanp561, 54vicky, 117harv and 3 others like this.
  3. I saw that too, possibly some coolant got into the pan along with the carnage.
     
  4. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 5,410

    Fordors
    Member

    It's a valve lifter, and BTW, that looks like a Ferguson Ardun Enterprises head in the photo. That certainly is not in any way to imply Ferguson was responsible for the failure.
    I recall "crab nuts" on EMD 710 ( cubes per cylinder) locomotive engines that came into the plant with inspection certification from the manufacturer, yet were pulling threads when torqued. Crab nuts clamp power assemblies (individual cylinders) to the block and take 1600 ft lbs to fasten properly. Inspection checked them with their thread gauges and pronounced them good, so I went to a band saw and cut one in half showing the half formed, jagged threads.
    Along similar lines there was a rash of aluminum top fuel rods 15 or so years ago that had faulty threads, yet they showed good with a thread gauge.
    It can happen, and sometimes does even with thorough inspection procedures.
     
    loudbang and stillrunners like this.
  5. Rand Man
    Joined: Aug 23, 2004
    Posts: 4,877

    Rand Man
    Member

    Dark oil is likely overheated oil. Most mechanical failures are lubrication related, either the primary cause, or as a result of "x" the lubricant didn't work. On an engine that sat un-used, I have seen the assembly lube fade away from some critical parts. Also, priming the engine before first starting is very important.

    On a blown engine. You have to suspect detonation. Didn't sound like much boost. Was that level actually proven, or is that what it "should be" for that combination? Was the camshaft a common blower grind? Maybe it had a bit too much overlap, etc. spark timing and/ too low octane fuel are also killers.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  6. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    contact Don Ferguson , its not like he has sold 1000's of these head kits and may have a record on who built it , at least then you can start getting answers
     
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  7. Rand Man
    Joined: Aug 23, 2004
    Posts: 4,877

    Rand Man
    Member

    Also, the static compression ratio is critical on a blown gasoline engine.


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    loudbang likes this.
  8. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,079

    squirrel
    Member

    I'm curious how all these things about the blower, could have anything to do with the rod bolts coming out? :)
     
    The37Kid, Montana1 and bobss396 like this.
  9. woodz
    Joined: Feb 23, 2010
    Posts: 544

    woodz
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Really sorry to see this happen. You seem a lot calmer than I would be if this happened to me.
    If I blow up the pic you posted, I can see the ends on the connecting rod bearings. One end on each bearing half is worn very thin and burned. This says to me that that bearing spun due to a lack of lubrication. JMHO.
    Good luck. Hope you get it sorted out and back on the road soon.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  10. Rand Man
    Joined: Aug 23, 2004
    Posts: 4,877

    Rand Man
    Member

    Detonation/extreme cylinder pressure does crazy shit. I'm saying the wrong combination in a blown engine can cause it to literally shake itself apart.


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    loudbang and PunkAssGearhead88 like this.
  11. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,589

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    For not having it very long, sounds like you did what anyone else would have. Being done quite some time ago you would think it was dependable, maybe the PO treated it a little different than he led on! Good luck on your investigation, please keep us posted on your results as they unfold.
     
  12. B.A.KING
    Joined: Apr 6, 2005
    Posts: 4,039

    B.A.KING
    Member

    YEP ROD BOLTS ARE OUT. WE BOUGHT A SBC THAT HAD SET FOR ABOUT 7 YRS, GOT IT RUNNING. IT LASTED ABOUT 10 HRS. WASHED OUT CAM/LIFTER. WHAT WE FIGURED WAS THAT ENGINE BREAK IN OIL/LUBE HAD RAN OFF OF EVERYTHING WHILE ENGINE SAT IN GARAGE.
     
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  13. Muttley
    Joined: Nov 30, 2003
    Posts: 18,500

    Muttley
    Member

  14. Engine man
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,480

    Engine man
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    I would look at the threads in the rods. Compare how far in the bolts should go with how deep any threads that pulled out are.

    I suspect that the bolts came loose. The bearings appear to have been pounded from too much clearance. The pounding on the bearings put extra stress on the threads causing the bolts to pull out. Checking thread depth might show if the bolts were loose or there was just too much clearance. It's possible that they were overtorqued and damaged the threads. I like bolts and nuts. It's pretty much impossible to tell if the threads in the rods are compromised. If they are used more than one time it can be a problem.
     
    loudbang and leadsled like this.
  15. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    The odd item you are referring to in post 29 is a lifter...described usually as "bottle type."
    The snout ends in a cup for the bottom of the pushrod. Lifter is very long to get the pushrod to an angle that will get it upstairs without interference. Engine obviously rejected the pushrod, noting it as a foreign object...
     
    97, loudbang, camer2 and 3 others like this.
  16. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,310

    woodbutcher
    Member

    :( Oh Lord.What a mess.Hope those Ardun heads are ok and reusable.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
  17. kb cookout
    Joined: Dec 17, 2004
    Posts: 4,815

    kb cookout
    Member

    Check and see if the front ( behind the timing gear) or rear oil gallery plugs were left out of the block, if left out they while wipe out the main bearings in less then 100 miles

    later kb
     
    loudbang likes this.
  18. I think I see bits of a grenade...
    [​IMG]
     
  19. ronnieroadster
    Joined: Sep 9, 2004
    Posts: 1,075

    ronnieroadster
    Member

    Import parts rods and crankshaft could be the cause of the failure but only 6 pounds of boost they should have held up to at least that. Good original Ford and Merc parts will withstand at least 10 pounds of boost with an Ardun set up I know from daily experiance.
    Another area of concern is a reground cast cam if that gave out first everything else becomes junk. To me it looks like the cam may have broken then the big parts got in the way of the rods and so on.
     
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  20. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,333

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That should buff right out.
     
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  21. flatheadpete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2003
    Posts: 10,485

    flatheadpete
    Member
    from Burton, MI

    It's like a horrible car crash...you don't want to look but you have to. And then you look even closer to find out what happened. Good luck. I think a little bit of every real hot rodder on the HAMB died when you ARDUN did.
     
    kiwijeff likes this.
  22. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 8,492

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    I thought, "nice rocker arms".
     
  23. JC Sparks
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 733

    JC Sparks
    Member
    from Ohio

    There is a rod bolt still in the cap. Boost, detonation and all that other shit had nothing to do with it. It either spun out or the threads were pulled out when it was torqued. You need to check the other rods for correct torque. This problem started at the bolt. JC
     
    PhredH, slack, loudbang and 1 other person like this.
  24. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,257

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Do I see a coil spring of rod material wrapped around this rod bolt?

    upload_2017-5-31_14-40-23.png
     
  25. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,277

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    Ebb, it could be aluminum from the rod. looks like the bolt just pulled out.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  26. hotrodyankee
    Joined: Jun 27, 2016
    Posts: 304

    hotrodyankee
    Member

    Sorry that happened!
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2017
  27. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 8,492

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    Sure does look like the bolt threads are full of something, rods are steel so maybe not enough thread depth or over torque?
     
    Unkl Ian likes this.
  28. chiro
    Joined: Jun 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,187

    chiro
    Member

    I'm sorry for your loss.

    Andy
     
  29. fordflambe
    Joined: Apr 9, 2007
    Posts: 573

    fordflambe
    Member

    Probably would have been much more enjoyable if you would have been rompin' on it.......
     
    Flatblack 31 likes this.
  30. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 8,492

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    Thats a fact.
     

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