Lol well it happens alot because a lot of trash comes out of the gaps etc. So that's why guys like to disassemble before painting, But if you will learn how to back tape and look at a foam tape line called j-tape you can assemble car then paint. The foam tape will go into a lot of gaps (like between the fender and door) and keep the trash to a minimum and hardly any type of paint line. Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Again...Thank You..... I have heard about panel paint match problems, but never seen a good example. This is a very good example!
I like 3M soft edge plus foam tape in the jambs keeps everything out and it’s a tubular hollow design so it conforms well to door, hood, and trunks areas. You put it on the move moving part. It’s got an offset adhesive, you put the adhesive to the inside and close the door, hood, trunk, with take a spreader and tuck it and be done. Simplest way to effectively mask a jamb
I've been lucky. I paint all mine that way, but I definitely believe you.... So, how would you do a big project where you paint everything? Dash, door jambs, inner trunk panel, etc? I always struggle trying to figure out how to do 2 sided stuff like early Ford hoods etc. BTW, I am just a DIY guy, not a pro. Thanks for your advice.
You do the jambs (door jambs, underneath hood, deck lid inner fenders) bolt them on then do outside. If you have to spray with hood or deck lid off, lay it the way it would lay on the car and spray as close as you can to the car. Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Also depends on how the parts we’re laying when they sprayed but yes you were right , only really works with solid colors with it apart Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
We have got her almost all the way prepped, headed to the wife's paint store now to raid it for more masking tape and a little more basecoat. Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
But just think how nice it will turn out the second time around. One more block sand should give you excellent results.
You are absolutely right! I found about 15 spots that I was not happy with so far. Years ago this old man I worked for in high school, after all the body work and block sanding was done, he'd make us paint the car with black single stage, and you could see any waves or imperfections. I use to get so mad because I would be so tired of sanding on the car day after day, only to get to sand on it even more! (which alot of the sanding then was sanding my runs out) Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks! Yes, I will be back your way end of September, we are going to use Bevill States facility for a training class. You should come by, I'll get you some samples up for your school. Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have had some ask how to back tape, so here we go. 1st take the masking tape and run it along the area you want taped up Next you take 1.5" masking tape, fold in half and run it on top of the tape you just ran around the vehicle Next take plastic sheeting stretch it to stick on the tape you folded in half, and take a razor blade and trim around to cut off the extra plastic Last take 1.5 inch tape and run on top side of the plastic, to lock everything down. This will cut down a lot of trash. Makes taping a lot easier. Also per square foot plastic sheeting is cheaper than green masking paper. The downside is you use a lot more masking tape. Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Always paint apart. Keeping the panels the same way they will be on the car. Weigh and calibrate to make sure the batches are the same. Painted 6 vehicles in the past 4 years. 2 have won best paint at car shows. The others don't go to judged car shows. Just lucky I guess.
Almost impossible to paint a metallic panel out of place and have it match. As to full modern cars that are way apart, like no engine, interior, etc, painting it as an assembly gives you an extra effect of having an OEM look. By that I mean you'll miss everywhere "they" did. Leaving out the inner fenders or seal panels for the jambs lets you reach into the hinge area with the door closed. Some of you can see this in your heads right now I'm sure. For a whole car just remove the latches and open and close the doors as you go if you REALLY have worries about tape lines. But those tape lines, refer to what loveoftiki was saying about jamb seal tape. Even with the best intentions and product there's still a telltale haze, so now what? The very last thing you do before the final cut and polish, but after sanding, wipe it off with solvent. Not too much, not too little. Too much you'll "wash" too much off. Too little you'll deposit lint and trash from it just being sticky. It's a developed touch so play where it won't hurt so bad. Last jamb advice, paint em in after. "After?!? Are you nuckin futz?" Nope. After. Over spray? Maybe a little. Tape edges? Not if you back tape like guru was showing and watch your work. Why after when over spray and edges can happen? If you're going to sand and polish you know you can manage it from there, no? 4 decades of chasing the "ghosts of quality" or the ultimate finishes, you finally learn what matters and what doesnt. Have fun...
Well I just got done putting the last coat of clear on. FYI my base gun is the iwata supernova, the gun I used for the crushed mirror is the iwata lph300 and for clear is the Devilbiss Tekna purple haze prolite. Here is the crushed mirror, really hard to see it, looks a little different from a typical midcoat. And now, no more mismatched panels Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks for all the shared info. Just getting ready to paint and the back taping and panel setting comments help. Generally paint things apart but have never sprayed anything other than solid color. Basecoat/clearcoat Washington Blue on the 36 soon. Using Matrix paint products.
They have got to be painted in the same plane so if they are off, put the parts near the car and spray in the same plane with the same kind of paint gun strokes and that will make it happen.
Thats some great advice I wouldn't have thought of. Been thinking of doing my own paint work but don't have the guts to put together a rough tarp sort of paint booth in the driveway, or get a paint gun. Any thoughts on how tough the new Dodge F8 Metallic Green would be? Heres a pic.... inspired by a '69 charger my dad almost bought when I was 8.
You can get that paint code in most any flavor, Acrylic Urethane, polyurethane and base coat. So it can be as tough as most any other coating out there. Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
From your pic above and comments about the guns used, it sounds like a 3 stage paint process...base, mid coat(crushed mirror) and clearcoat...painter friend said they now have 4 steps...ain't nothin' simple anymore....? Those 3 guns you spoke of, together they cost more than most guy's house payment....the little guy is out of the picture with paint and guns compared to the binks and lacquer days.
The GTO I posted earlier was a Factory color in base/ clear. It is a metallic Burgundy painted apart. Won best paint at it's first show. Painted with a purple Harbor Freight gun. Bought on sale for $ 19.95, an expensive gun will not make you a better painter overnight. You can not prep the car for your top coat unless you are patient. Getting the metal ready for paint is just or more important than laying down an amazing paint job over shitty prep.
Back in the late 70-s. Delstar Acrylic Enamel. PPG was the TICKET. Nice WETCOAT—would lay-out smooth,no Cut and Buff. Would SHINE like no tomorrow. But when it was 6 degrees outside and the Paint Booth SUCKED all the heat out of the shop....I was known as “THE DRAPERY MAN”. That Shit would flow—-but a re-coat one month later. Slick! Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You can get away with painting it in pieces BUT... it has to be done like the parts are on the car. Meaning you have to arrange the panels in the booth in the same orientation as they go on the car. And you have to shoot it all at the same time in the same way. If you shoot one panel one day and one the next day, or one panel top to bottom and one side to side, you’re screwed. Looking good now though...
If you follow the steps and take your time, an Economy paint gun will get you the same results. I have to invest in good guns because they are my living. Also cleaning the gun 3-10 times a day between color changes will take a toll on economy guns. Also if I go to a body shop that's got issues and I whip out my Harbor freight spray gun I'll get my ass kicked, and if it's your job day in and day out, I feel you should invest in quality tools. But you can definitely get excellent results with economy guns, but they lack consistency, poor machining, use more gaskets vs metal to metal seal etc. One other thing to note is alot of times when shops have issues with color or metallics its usually 1 of 3 things - wrong solvent selection, poor air line quality and/or abused spray guns. So when I come to a shop to diagnose a issue it's usually a process of elimination. I bring the correct reducer, use my spray guns then if we still have issues I will measure the amount of moisture in the airlines. But I don't think I could have sprayed the crushed mirror with a economy gun. But most average people are not going to spray crushed mirror on their vehicle. We did the crushed mirror because this type of crushed mirror is brand new on the market, and my wife (owning a paint store) wants something different. But just for reference the lph300 is less than $400. The tekna purple haze is $400 with a digital gauge and comes with 3 different tip sizes. Sure you can buy 6 economy spray guns but if you paint a car a month, I feel either one of these guns will make your job a lot easier , less trash because it breaks paint up a lot less air pressure (13 psi is where I sprayed the clear on this car) . Puts less strain on your compressor over time. And if you ever wanted to sell it used, you can get at least 50 percent of your money back. Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
You are right about durability of the cheap guns. I paint 2 cars and then go buy another gun and keep the old one for parts. Just cheap insurance. I did not want to invest in an expensive gun because of health issues , I have to stop painting. I am going to paint one more car , which will be my Morris Minor Gasser project in single stage.
The Jalopy Journal
