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Technical 8ba to 39 trans bellhousing question

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by louisb, Dec 31, 2014.

  1. louisb
    Joined: Oct 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,126

    louisb
    Member

    Hi All,

    I need to pick up a bell housing to connect my 8ba to '39 trans for my AV8 project. I know the trucks came with a cast bellhousing and the Mercury cars came with a stamped steel piece. I also know the starter plates are different. Is one preferred over the other when putting this comb in an early chassis?

    Thanks,

    --louis
     
  2. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    I used the Mercury unit unit in a project several years ago and as I recall it also 'required' use of the Merc oil pan as the bottom om the bell housing is bolted to a bracket on the bottom of the oil pan. I also had the cast truck bell housing and it did not have such a bracket as best I can remember.

    I'm not recommending one over the other, only pointing out a difference that may matter to you, especially if you don't have the matching pan.

    Ray
     
  3. louisb
    Joined: Oct 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,126

    louisb
    Member

    Hi Ray,

    Thanks for the heads up on the oil pans, I had forgot about that. My block is actually an 8RT block with the truck oil pan. Probably easiest to just go with the truck bellhousing and starter plate.

    Thanks,

    --louis
     
  4. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,966

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The cast iron '48-'52 truck bell will allow an 11" clutch, while the '49-'50 Mercury stamped part limits you to a 10" clutch. (These 1/2 bells or flywheel covers are only 3" deep)
    There are three starter plates used with these bells and all are interchangeable. It really depends on what oil pan you intend to use, as Ford designed/intended these short bells to be partially supported by the oil pans. The '49-'50 Merc pan has three studs on the rear of the sump that bolt to an angle bracket attached to it's starter plate. This same plate without the angle bracket was also used on some F-1 trucks and bolts directly to the rear sump truck pan with the large clean-out. The third plate had a U-shaped recess to allow room for a special alloy dust seal used on heavier duty F trucks.
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2014
    stillrunners and louisb like this.

  5. louisb
    Joined: Oct 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,126

    louisb
    Member

    Thanks for the input. I went with the truck bellhousing and starter plate.

    I plan to go with a 9" clutch since it will be a light roadster. I still need to pick up a flywheel, have it chopped and re drilled for a 9 inch pressure plate. Any recommendations on where to get that done?

    Thanks,

    --louis
     
  6. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,966

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm using a steel Centerforce flywheel, which is about 10 lbs. lighter than a stock cast iron, is multi-drilled for Long or diaphragm plates, balanced and is what I would recommend. By the time you buy a new ring gear, have the old wheel checked for cracks, machined and redrilled and balanced, you'll be at or near the cost of a new steel wheel.
    I'm using a 10.4" diaphragm in my roadster, but would not use anything less than a 9 1/2", IMO. :)
     
  7. louisb
    Joined: Oct 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,126

    louisb
    Member

    I will have to check those out.

    Thanks,

    --louis
     
  8. CTAV8
    Joined: May 18, 2014
    Posts: 107

    CTAV8
    Member

    We got a lightened stock 8BA flywheel drilled for 9",10", & 11" from Vern Tardell .
     
  9. louisb
    Joined: Oct 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,126

    louisb
    Member

    Thanks,, I will have to contact him and see if he has anymore.

    --louis
     
  10. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,639

    thirtytwo
    Member

    I put a 9" clutch in my roadster and it wouldn't hold the motor the shop I work at had the same problem in a 50 ford with a rebuilt/ new 10" in both cases the new clutches had to weak of springs that hat to be replaced so be wary on the "rebuilts/new " clutches
     
  11. louisb
    Joined: Oct 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,126

    louisb
    Member

    Thanks for the tip thirtytwo, I will keep that in mind. It is getting harder and harder to find quality parts these days.

    --louis
     
  12. CTAV8
    Joined: May 18, 2014
    Posts: 107

    CTAV8
    Member

    Louis, get your clutch parts from Fort Wayne Clutch and you will be glad you did. Top quality, good prices, and lots of knowledge on the subject .
     
  13. louisb
    Joined: Oct 13, 2008
    Posts: 1,126

    louisb
    Member

    Cool I will check them out.

    Thanks,

    --louis
     
  14. Mr 42
    Joined: Mar 27, 2003
    Posts: 1,215

    Mr 42
    Member
    from Sweden

  15. CTAV8
    Joined: May 18, 2014
    Posts: 107

    CTAV8
    Member

    Louis, I've been running a 9" from Ft Wayne Clutch behind a stock 8BA for five years with no problems. All the V-8 guys over on Ford Barn get their stuff from Ft Wayne and I've never heard of anyone being dissatisfied.
     
    louisb likes this.

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