8BA Flathead Torn Down - Don't Laugh

I heard something I never remember to try. I was told after welding the nut on the busted stud, jam wax up agianst it. Guy had canning parrifin in the garage, theory was it would be wicked or drawn in to the space around the threads like solder, lubricate it. Maybe it would not work with rusty. No doubt the opportunity will come soon enough, have a 59 block with almost all the studs still in it. I am going to grab some birthday candles and take them down to the shop, try it.

 

I will try the paraffin wax thing. One thing that I noticed was that the bolts that broke after welding was that the remainder left in the block was cool to the touch. I had a good enough weld that the bolt broke and not the weld. Maybe the block is acting as a heat sink and not letting the bolt get hot enough to break the bond. With 17 left to remove, I'll have plenty of opportunities to try different methods...

 

Hope you are a good welder.
27 Washers and 27 nuts.
Unless or course you snap one of the welded ones off.

Good luck..........

 

Timeserts are better than any Helicoils.They cost more but can take alot more torque.

 

I used helicoils in a block and it worked out o.k. I would have liked a tighter fit for the bolt.

Neal

 

Ah, a little success finally. Figured I'd try the weld a nut process again this evening when I got home from work. First I heated the bolt with a torch the hit it with bee's wax and let it suck it up. Tried welding a nut on, but it pulled off with a wrench afterward, showing little sign of penetration. Tried again with another nut and a little different technique (wish I could weld well enough to actually say I had a 'technique'). Anyway, let it cool for about 15 minutes instead of 2 or 3, but a socket on it with a breaker bar, worked it a little each way, and it screwed out pretty smoothly and easily. Many of the remaining bolts are proud of the block by 1/8" to 1/4", so hopefully most of those will come out as easily. Beats the hell out of spending an hour on each one with a drill, punch, and tap. Thanks again for the advice.

 

Next time try rapping them solidly with a 4 lb hammer.
The shock that each bolt will receive helps greatly in loosening the age old bond.
-In hitting the bolt/head square on, you are generating a shock directly down into the the frozen threads and a few well placed hits will help upset some of the frozen rust...

just a thought
moe

 

For me, welding the nut onto the broken bolt is best done by TIG. I can see the penetration this way.

 

I may be misinterpreting what you wrote, but the 39 is a floor shift transmission

 

What kind of welder are you attempting this with??

I have done dozens of them and haven't been stumped yet.
I do use tig nothing else. Works every time.

http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/studremoval.htm

Tig

 

I think he means his 50 truck LD side shift trans is basically the same as a 39. At least thats what they are and how I read it.

Congrats on making progress on the broken bolts - that's gotta feel good!

 

god what shitty luck ! good luck brotha

 

^^^ LOL - thats good. ^^^

 

I'm using a MIG for this, which is the only welder I have.

On the transmission(s), what I meant was that there was a side shift transmission attached to the 8BA, but also bought a '39 transmission from the same guy.